Recent content by AJ/FormS

That trick should not be necessary on a Mopar, The fluid volume, and the pressure, is so large, that going lock to lock to lock, even just once, is usually enough to bleed the lines. If you have kinked the hi-pressure line, this will cause a venturi to form downstream of the kink, which will...

Does it also run pretty hot on the hiway? I had that one/two problem with my 367. (Hot-running plus hard hot-start). In my case; It turned out to be too tight ring gaps, and/or tight skirts. I tore the engine down, delivered the block back to the machineshop, where they honed the cylinders out...

IIRC The 2-door Scamps/Valiants, were also 108s?

Chrysler wheels have been built like that since at least the 60s. I would suspect your studs or nuts before the Wheels. FYI; I have a pair of Wheel Vintiques 15 x 10, 4.5 bc, steel Rally wheels, with BFG 325/50-15 Drag Radials mounted on them. On the car are 1/2 inch screw-in, long studs...

You know what; my 400hp/367 doesn't even have a fuel pressure gauge. Nor a quality oil-pressure gauge, Nor a quality coolant temperature gauge. All my car has is the factory slow gauges that are about as forthcoming as a pregnant wife. Gauges are just tools. Build your systems with confidence...

Mechanical pump? Dead-headed regulator? What happens if you rev it up a bit? say 1000rpm. BTW on the street, 3psi is lots, so long as delivers the volume.

Yes, when you reinstall that valve body, it has to be centered just right, else the car will self-steer. The usual way is to leave the vb-casting slightly loose, and start up the engine. As soon as you do, chances are that it will not be in the correct position, and so, the steering wheel will...

To find a leak, just seal the valve covers and inject air thru the dipstick tube. Regulate the pressure to about 3psi, not more that 4! Then hit her with soapy water around the suspected areas. Easy Peasy........ if you have a regulator.

oh crap here we go again.....

Com'on, my friend, stick with me. Name one part on a carb, or one circuit, that is redundant. You said it yourself, namely; "claimed to be engine tuners". There is a very strong possibility that your tuner acquaintances DO know about this, cuz it's darn near impossible to have a sweetheart of...

FWI On a factory car, that runs four same-sized tires, the front brakes do about 85% of the work. On my hi-perf street car, I found that, as the rear tires got swapped ever bigger, I could dial in more and more rear brake, until eventually with 295s, the Rear now has Zero proportioning; and I...

Dynomite! But if the mixture screws are only 1.75T open, then you still have the option of trading away some transfer fuel to get some more idle mixture. It's an option. How she runs at cruising speed with just 1.75Turns out, will determine what to do next.

The transfer slot is down inside the primary throttle bore, on the front side, and is the primary source of fuel delivery from idle to roughly 30% throttle opening, (I'm guessing) when the Mainjet comes on line. At idle, transfer-slot fuel is augmented by fuel coming from the Mixture screw ports.

Gimmee a break, my very similar combo would idle with the Idle-timing down as low as 5 degrees, no problem. 12 to 14 is all I've ever run, cuz that is where my T-slots synced up at. Lemmee splain something; Your AFR at idle is created by the combination of transfer slot exposure underneath the...

One thing? notta chance I can keep it to just one. Power-slides, J-hooks, Dual blackies for 3 gears, lighting them up at 50mph, adjustable rear-steering, jumping, rallying, bunny-hops, cruising in overdrive at 85=2100 .. If I had to pick one I suppose it would have to be endurance; the ability...