Recent content by cudamark

The bell crank that attaches to the outside handle can come loose too, causing slop in the linkage. Check to make sure the screw is tight. Also, the plastic clips can wear out causing that same slop in the linkage.

I've been able to remove and reuse those rivets. I use a real sharp small chisel to drive under the head of the rivet and work it up and out. The rivet is splined and the splines are slightly curved, so, the rivet comes out with a slight twist to it. Use some locktite to re-install it.

If you need all the guts, get '64-5 2dr HT doors. Some '66 parts and '64-4 doors of other body styles are the same too, but, I'd get the earlier 2dr HT ones to be sure you'd get all the correct parts. Someone is bound to have some rusted out doors that still have good internal parts.

Why did they recall it?

You can save the ring and pinion too.....if they're still good.

As a complete rear end, it should fit just fine along with JYH's caveats. As for keeping spare parts off the old rear end.....keep the brakes, housing cover, and the pinion flange. The housing, axle shafts, axle bearings and seals are all different. Just remember to order replacement parts for...

Machine shop stampings. Probably the person who did the job and the work order number. Stupid stamp location though.

I'd use the same specs unless you do tons of parallel parking and have weak arm strength. Then I'd maybe have a touch less caster.

Agree, the OP's is upside down and backwards.

JFWIW, an easy way to tell the difference between a poly block and an LA block is that a poly block doesn't have freeze plugs in the front.

2nd M&H for the main harnesses. You'd have to check to see if an A/C and/or Convertible top harness is even available. Those will usually survive a meltdown, so, yours might be reusable.

I believe that is a '66 Plymouth A-body only horn button....and not even all of '66. My early '66 Barracuda still used the V emblem. The B-bodies in '66 had that wheel option too, but, I think the horn button was different.

The OP's window crank looks to be the '77-up type. Probably off a B or F-body.

Yup, and we have at least two flavors of them. One is a general smog shop where repairs and other services can be done too. The other is a test only smog shop where no repairs can be done. My '78 W250 at one time (before I bought it) was deemed a "gross polluter", so, I have to take it to a test...

If nothing is worn out, I'd just live with the squeak, or, turn the radio up louder! :lol: