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I opened the secondaries on mine to correct transfer slot alignment. Now I can breath when I stand behind the car whens its idling.

Make sure your transfer slots are not over exposed. Cause if they are that will cause rich idle and lean as throttle is cracked open.

I used to run 32 fixed/locked timing no curve in my 414. Did that when auto trans used to be in there and converter was too tight for cam. Band aided the in gear idle problems. It never had an issue starting locked in at 32 like some say can happen. Once I got a looser converter in years ago...

The switch is on the trans. Pull the plug off switch on trans and see if lights go off.

I don''t have ANY issue with ANYTHING you posted at ALL. I hope you can report back later vendor fixed the parts and these badly needed parts become available. Cause right now if someone has broken gauges thats a huge problem

My car has all original gauges and original tach they all still work correctly. So looks like original design was pretty good to me.

I didn't take it as throwing stones at original parts. More like they are decades old, unknown history, reliability can be in question due to age, possible abuse/neglect ect. And issues with the new parts obvious they don't fit and are unusable.

Clean AF

Some of mines be rubbing on the wiper motor. My old wires and cap done threw away had plastic wire covers on some wires by wiper motor but threw out don't have no more. MSD Street Fire came pre cut for small block mopar.

I run a '70 up timing cover with a '68 and earlier timing tab bolted to pass side. Then I cut a new groove in balancer for zero degrees on pass side. So the '70 up timing cover can be made to work on cast iron water pump cars. '69 was only year timing marks were cast on pass side a one year...

The '69 and earlier cast iron pumps are shorter and require pulleys and alternator brackets that are compatible. And finding '69 and earlier pulleys is a challenge. The aftermarket tends to cater to the '70 and up aluminum water pump and pulleys that are compatible with that pumps offset...

Other thing make sure you have a hood to cowl seal on the back of your hood. Otherwise every time you wash car bulk head gets soaked which will cause corroded terminals down the road. Bulk head terminals should be packed with dielectric grease to keep moisture out.

I had a High Output alternator on my car once, discharged at idle, like maybe good for a drag car, seemed totally useless to me. I believe it was a Power Master totally useless part. I bought a round back alternator from Autozone or somewhere been good for 15 years now. I run ground wire from...

I got the M&H engine and healight harness from Year One 12 years or so ago. Perfect. There were other wires I needed such as AC (and maybe neutral safety) and was able to get directly from M&H since Year One didn't list them. All perfect match to the originals exceptional quality.

Original tach has an adjustment to calibrate the RPM. I don't think my tach is accurate don't think it ever was even when I used to run points.....

My car still has its original tach in the dash and I run a Mallory Unilite electronic ignition and tach has been working for over a decade now. Before that I ran mopar electronic ignition with original tach for couple of decades. So that is several decades with original tach and "modern"...

Have you tried contacting M&H? They make perfect reproduction wiring harnesses for classic mopars. The M&H harnesses are sold by Year One. Reproduction Wiring Harnesses for America's Muscle Cars I see "rear lamp harness Barracuda Fastback" in their catalog. Not sure if it has the dome light...

Year One wire harnesses are just like the originals. Not cheap but well worth the money. If you want it to be right get it from Year One.

Mallory Unilite here. One wire hook up and no external box. Works great.

With engine off and key in the run position you should have 8 volts on the plus side of the coil. When cranking the engine over it should go from 8 to 12 volts because during cranking the ballast resistor is bypassed.

Auto parts store will sell you some dielectric grease. I always put it inside the spark plugs boots. Like others said it keeps corrosion out and allows the plug wires to come easily at a later time.

I tried all kinds of different initial timing settings, spoke with Brian who recommended I lock it, so that is what I did and it fixed it without changing anything else. It works with no bad side effects so I'll leave it. If I ever get a looser converter in there I'll mess with it again.

See above post for a better explanation about what my car was doing. Sounds like you need to richen up your carb a bit. When engines are warm they don't need as much fuel as they do when they are cold. Sounds like you need bigger primary jets.

LOL, I remember, it was just last year. Carb is new Holley 750 DP and I changed the power valve to a lower one in an attempt to help idle. Power valve is not blown, does not run rich. When I had it at 21 initial 34 total it only surged in park, at a stop, in gear. Once rolling, even at a...

I don't have a rev limiter, mine is an automatic. But you guys got me thinking about one because if something lets loose (drive shaft, trans, rear) this engine will rev to the moon in a split second.

I run my distributor at 34 degrees locked, as in no mechanical timing, and it starts right up hot or cold no problem. I had to run it locked due to 108 LSA cam and 2500 stall converter. It surged in gear when I had it at 21 initial and 34 total. 10.3:1 compression eddie heads stroker small...

I just snapped a picture of the wire coming through the fire wall:

Evans sells a reproduction Tach Harness for $20: http://evanswiring.tripod.com/id3.html And like said above it is a grey wire.

The factory drilled an extra hole in the fire wall on factory tach cars: