Recent content by michiganpat

it could also be the difference in casting quality from the 70's and now....I've seen some of those cast adapters crack when torqued to spec onto the car....either way, a billet one will be significantly stronger than a cast one, and the billet ones are less expensive to boot

these? lists applications up to the last of the B body cordobas? https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/5.7109?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZayBhDRARIsAPWzx8rzY8XgBhvn6mDqx5bEPnoHX9JpKHP-8HwhNeE5BunfRF4AbiWJ0YIaAiczEALw_wcB

cast aluminum, especially if it's ADC12/A383 is quite brittle, with maybe 3% elongation at break, with a yield strength of about 22ksi/UTS of maybe 30KSI. 6061T6 is much tougher and more ductile with 17% elongation at break, 40KSI yield and 45KSI UTS. that's not opinion, that's fact. hit a...

I used hub centric 6061 billet adapters on this car to be able to use Bullit rims back in the early 2000's, NEVER had an issue with them over 8 years. they were 3/4" thick, the wheels had a pocket behind the spokes between the lug holes which allowed the lugnuts to the car to sit in....they...

so, my duster's 7.25" is 57.125" wide, drum to drum, assuming your rear is about the same. IF you like the wheels, but want to tuck them in, here are a couple potential lower cost options that might be cheaper than new rims: if you get an explorer 8.8 rear and do the trick where you shorten...

until you break the upper shock mount because they're not designed to carry vehicle weight.......when we bought my duster in 1991 with 50K miles, it had air shocks on it and both upper shock mounts were completely ripped out of the unibody.

I had some leftover laminate flooring that is a simulated 12x12 tile and 12x48". cut it into 4 12x12 pieces on my table saw, and put grease between 2 of them, top face-to-top face....works great.

too bad you're in CA, as I'd be all over that for my duster since I just did a factory disc conversion on my drum car and need to change the rear bolt pattern on my car, but I'm in west Michigan.

You might want to think about swapping gears before doing it. 2.76 with a 26" tire gets you 2500-2600 RPM cruise at 70....3.55's, the engine is cranking at 3300-3400 at the same MPH. you could also look for a 998 transmission out of a 5th ave/diplomat. they have a 2.74/1.54/1 1st/2nd/3rd...

mark me down for 2.76.

guessing you meant "take the gears".... not sure if there were any differences/changes that happened between the early 70's and early 90's that might preclude that....IIRC there were some major changes to the 7.25" in the late 70's that made stuff like that not swappable.

I've never seen any KB hyper pistons for a 318 bore/4" stroke. if you get an '85-up 318 or 318 magnum block you can run stock roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam.....doing a 4" stroker, other than the "number" (392), there's no advantage to doing that over starting with an '89-up 360 or...

and to clarify, the LBJ is NOT different between disc and drum on '73-76's.....

this is in PRE 73 Drum cars, right? mine didn't change, and the LBJ is the same part number disc or drum, but it's a 1976 drum brake car.

what kind of driving do you like to do? run on the freeway and keep up with traffic? run hard from 0-60? get an idea of what you want your cruise speed RPM with a calculator like this: https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php keep in mind, this will estimate cruise RPM probably 100-150RPM low...