Recent content by rumblefish360

Naaawwww, he is in the street. RRR nailed it. .750 roller and a Dominator up top the Sup Victor. :rofl:

Are heads are just the aluminum castings. Most often, they will need valves, springs, locks and retainers. A valve job is often done on the head but may need to be adjusted but certainly checked for your valves and needs. The head will have valve guides installed. The step below is a ”Raw Head”...

Screw them :rofl:

OP, find more power and n a good 4bbl carb and intake. For the heads & what you’re doing with them, any enhancement is going to be pricey with a low return - but just a bowl porting is a good step. Better if you use the 1.88/1.60 - 360 valves. Also work on your exhaust.

2.02 + 1.60 = 3.62 is a 3.91 stock sized bore. They fit and work. Valve shrouding should be avoided however even the factory offerings across the board don’t worry about valve shrouding. It is just not that big of an issue and means near nothing in an everyday street car. Worrying about it is...

Let the machinist decide if it needs it or not. The conditions of the cylinder will be determined then. The machinist will probably opt for a .030. I like the cam. Increasing duration moves the power band upwards. If you like how it performs now, keep the cam. No. You can if you want but it’s...

No! This is a restrictive mileage seeking intake. Yes! These are manifolds that free up air flow and allow more power easily.

How heavy is the car approximately?

Clean burn? 0r “Leanburn” ignition/emission system? I’m haven’t heard of “Cleanburn.” Leanburn is the first (rudimentary) computer mounted on the side of the air cleaner. It controlled the spark and timing. No OSCA valve that I can remember. Some air cleaners (years unknown) did have something...

The valve on the firewall designed to delay vacuum advance for 15 seconds in the name of clean air. Just run the vacuum line from the carb port to the distributor and that’s that.

My exact thoughts. However, they’ll try out several and find what they like. Like the 3 bears story….. just sayin…..

Any factory iron 4bbl is a very good intake. You can save some weight with an Edelbrock Performer. The small displacement engine can use a 500cfm Edelbrock. A 600 isn’t to large ether. I would use the AVS II style carb.

As said above…. All small blocks can swap distributors. The factory stuff is where it’s at. Purchase new stuff, don’t bother raising older used equipment. Go to Manciniracing.com or Summitracing.com The “Orange box ignition kit” is a simple 4 wire installation. 1 wire to a constant 12v source...

Ask the girls that question.

Check the 11/10/9 second zone listings in the racers forum up top in the sticky section. The thread is supposed to be laid out in a fashion so it’s easy to read the list of parts that the poster used to obtain the ET and speed. With this, anyone happening to stroll in looking to obtain an ET...