Lean idle. Rich cruise.
Main bleeds are 34, from the factory.. But now I'm confused. I do know smaller bleeds will pull more fuel (I thought). I need less fuel at cruise.
That's way too big for a main air bleed unless you are 1250 CFM and maybe not even then.
You have to get to the point where you are tuning each circuit in order. I always start with the idle circuit and go from there.
As a general rule, two emulsion bleeds is all you need. I have some carbs running one emulsion but that's with annular boosters. And not cheap ones either.
You sound like you are right on the edge of transition from the T slots to the boosters. IMO you'll never get it cleaned up without T slot restrictors AND correcting the MAB.
To that end, when you do get the MAB correct, you will need to look at WOT again. Because it will get fatter upstairs with the smaller MAB.
Which is what happens when the MAB is too big. At low air speeds or throttle opening or however you want to say it, the MAB will ACT exactly like an emulsion bleed. It's adding air to the main well until the air speed is high enough to get the booster flowing.
That HUGE assed MAB is starting the booster too soon. Starting too soon makes it rich and you can't clean it up.
I mean, if the carb was here I'd start with a .026 MAB, T slot restrictors at .068 and and idle feed restrictor of .028 and an idle air bleed of .070 and tune from there.
It's by far quicker and easier to do this on a dyno but it can be done.
EDIT: I forgot to mention you need to unlock the distributor and get a GOOD curve in it. You are absolutely KILLING 20-30 HP so fast your head would spin.
You are killing torque below peak and killing power above peak with that locked out distributor. Plus all that timing at peak torque is an engine killer.
Fix that FIRST.
