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Totally agree! I have pretty much every issue.

Ya Kern dog, gotta agree. Funny thing. This whole site is dedicated to thousands of people restoring, repairing and customizing cars that are mostly over 50 years old . And there are thousands of clubs for different makes of cars doing the same thing we are. Internet/ social media can't...

Good luck with it bud.. No way should you have to beat on them like that to fit. Me, I'd make one last call to Dougs, then , if no recourse, I'd take pics and post them on here and send them back to Dougs with pics showing them how bad they fit on this site. Then see how Dougs reacts...

Man you are having a tough time with this one! I think if the headers were a problem, you may have to dimple them a little but, no way should you have to mangle them to fit. I f you do, they are junk. I don't know if I've asked this before but are you sure you have the correct headers for your...

Damm! this is a tough one! Ok , lets see what may be able to be moved to gain clearance 1. The steering column bolts going into the firewall to allow movement of the column 2. The bolts holding the power steering box 3. The motor mount brackets 4. transmission mount 5 transmission cross...

Yeah , I think you are right. Towards pass side would be ideal. No chance you have another set of engine mounts is there? Even if you could borrow a set to try. Something strange up here for sure.

Looking at this pic, The engine has to go down or back to clear the header tube.

This is just a shot in the dark but are the motor mount brackets in the right place on the engine block?

You know Bob, this could be a combination of all these adjustments needing to be done. As I'm sure you know, they all add up, an 1/8th here, a 1/16th there etc ...

Great attitude! I am following along and it definitely seems the engine is not aligned properly in the engine bay. I don't think its the headers so I wouldn't bend them up yet. Here's something else to check I was thinking that maybe the transmission mount is bad or the crossmember is dropped...

If you put the shims between the motor mount and the K member, the angle of the block will change as it goes up in height. It should actually be greater than 1/8 where the steering coupler goes into the steering box. I'm sure you know this but loosen the bolts of the motor mount bracket attached...

And all along I thought " Hoover" referred to the way he sucked back the smoke....

uuh Bob... The engineers were also pot smoking hippies..LOL !!!

Absolutely! Our old Mopars were never supposed to last this long. The manufacturers wanted them replaced every 3 years.

Hey azaustin, Its not that hard , you just have to take your time. Some suggestions if you decide to do it yourself. 1. leave the covers out in the sun for a bit to soften them up. 2. Use some plastic over the foam and slide the covers over the plastic. (got this trick from a professional...

Yup! The welds are ****, especially around the steering box mount. Get in a stock mopar, have someone crank the steering wheel hard left or right and look at the steering box. You can actually see the deflection happening!

Ok, try this. Unbolt the driver's side engine mount. Use a bar or an engine hoist and see if you can move the engine to a position that clears the header tubes. If the headers now clear, maybe you can shim between the motor mount and the K-Frame to get the clearance you need. Your problem is...

Any history of accidents on the car? How do the frame rails look? What engine mounts are you using? Without pics it seems the engine is sitting more to driver side than normal thus reducing clearance.

A quick test is to use a 9 volt battery . Connect leads across gauge terminals and look for full pointer deflection. This is a simple test that will confirm the gauge is working but do not leave the leads connected as it will burn out the gauge. Calibration is another process.

Do you have the gauges out of the cluster?

Hi Alan, My 68 Cuda has the original hood. It may have cutouts in the substructure for them but definitely not in the surface sheetmetal. Here a pic of a 1968 383 Formula S hood.

Alan, the 68 Hood mounted signal indicators were an option so hoods were produced without the holes. I did not know the 67 vent windows were the only year with locks!

Would these be the same transmissions used in The Little Red Wagon Wheel standers?? Mark Worman of Graveyard cars built one packing a bed mounted Hemi.

Wouldn't surprise me at all. After all, Chrysler did put a Hemi on an Air Raid siren

Agree! 68 deluxe interior trim, 1969 console covers, 68-Dash pads, 68 383-S hood callouts, Marker lights etc..etc,.. Major alarm bells on this one!!

Trying to understand your question. You can't install the outside track from the passenger side on the driver side. the release handle would be facing inside rather than outside rendering it unusable. You could install the passenger tracks on the driver seat but the seat back release would be...

Same for A-Body. See the pic. Note the seat release arm position on the left track for driver side. Its on the right side for passenger seat.

Welcome to the site !!! No problem to do. You will need one of these. Here's mine, assembled and ready to install. Here it is , installed.

Check the holes in the tracks that you used when bolting the tracks back on to the seats. As A56 said, the track release handle is on the outside track

Hey Paul, Is this a new starting motor Have you checked the pinion shaft on the starter motor to see if it is sticking there How are the teeth on the pinion gear