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you went with charlene too?!? damn, i knew that gal got around... but still!

the green schmoo is good to .005 and in some cases up to .015 they do make some repair type compounds that'll go .020 but the shear is lower. but your point still stands, some type of fit has to be there to start with. certainly not that level of kicking a hot dog down a hallway. here's the...

i'd save the drive unless you were going out there anyway to hang with your friend.

i hear you can freeze it if you want to use it later... wait, what were we talking about?

F that noise. i wouldn't be trusting no magic goop to hold that mess. those would be going straight back with a strongly worded letter and new decent ones ordered up pronto.

it was a nice little find out there in a sea of crappy fast food. funny looks from the girls behind the counter aside, it was good food. i'd 100% stop by there again if in the area. and the gals can be forgiven cuz i looked like i'd been rolling around out in a ditch moving a body-- i'm...

do you have a slip style yoke or is it B&T? that's number one. after that, i *guess* it can be done? the OD took a different main shaft which in turn took a different tail shaft, but maybe a slip style would work? a LOT less work and expense would probably be to source a compete OD box...

AH-HAHAHAHA HAHAHA HAHHAHAHHA HHAHAHAHHAHAHA *passes out from lack of oxygen* *wakes up* what were we talking about again?

i mean yeah, i was up there dropping off some parts too.. wait... my legal team is signaling something to me? oh. it seems i've said enough. look i bought some car parts, hit the hesperia pick your part, had a sandwich at vitelli's and drove home. that's it. nothing more.

sorry, i should've provided some exposition. Race Across America (RAAM) is a bicycle race that began in 1982 apologies for being pedantic

i was up i apple valley for some parts a few months ago and rolled back to LA via 138 that evening. at night, even though it is a major highway there are parts that are totally unlit and you're not seeing more than 30 foot or so past the shoulder; and there are whole miles long stretches of...

it was One Lap of America http://www.onelapofamerica.com/home.do https://www.allpar.com/d3/history/mopar/lapping-valiant.html https://www.moparaction.com/2016/03/16/one-lap/

uncle T must be a millionaire. he lives rent free in everybody's head.

here's a $700 answer to the problem. https://www.ididit.com/i-25048387-30-straight-column-shift-steering-column-paintable-steel.html?q= it'll need some fiddling about, but if you can't find the elusive 66 piece it's an option.

not necessarily zooty, but what was available then at a reasonable cost. it's a basic build, but wouldn't exactly say it was bolt on. https://www.motortrend.com/articles/ccrp-0401-mopar-318-engine/

**sold**

that's my thought. hadn't been checked in on and when old mother hubbard showed up the cupboard was bare. one car? two or three? okay, yeah... but scooping up and disappearing pert near a dozen? that's denmark rotten levels.

length and dash attachment is totally different you need early A stuff only for a bolt in solution.

i *think* i've got one... i'll root around and hit ya with a PM

it's not a forum for elite engine builders and tuners, but come prepared to back up your claims when you lay down something that is toward the outside of believable. but you want receipts? here ya go: from this *enhance* some of us are fastidious with paperwork. (please disregard the...

i'm local-ish so i'll put the word out on the wire and keep a hairy eyeball peeled.

*woosh* ^^ that there? that's the sound of everything going over your head. okay, so, we cannot suspend disbelief because of your past levels of chicanery. you can't even keep the story straight or the timeline, well, in line. come up with that parts list and them specs and maybe i see it...

it does pivot to a degree, but it's more like it flexes. there's not a whole bunch of range when tight. anyway, i'd loosen that up and retry. if it's loose, and everything is still stiff, then it's likely the pin is rusted into the K, the up.per control arm is rusted solid in place (less...

if your shaft is good condition, i'd just have that worked to fit; it would be the most economical path. but if you wind up needing a combo joint and don't want to run that, then i'd source a new one or just have one built. not that there's anything wrong with running a combo. shorter answer...

^^ KS got it. don't forget some properly sized washers

same here, i've done miles of one wheel peels in clapped out 318 cars with 7.25's and never had a problem. but those were all with like 195/70-14's that were hard as rocks. same situation knocked on a set of 215/60's and scattered the thing goosing it on a RH turn. lost an axle on another at...

mmmrrrppphhh. not the glitter you want to see after a hot friday nite.

did you loosen the control arm pivot nuts before attempting to raise and lower? is it clapped and sitting on the bump stop on the one side? t-bar mount isn't rusted out? 100% what dana said, the bars are almost impossible to mis-clock. sounds like something is borked.

your e-brake cables may or may not work or may need some fiddling to hook up. likely need a new brake drop line from frame to axle. depending on carrier and what you have, you may need to swap the u-joint or run a combo style one, but that goes along with shortening the shaft like gdrill said.