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Check with whoever you got those doors from. They had all the parts at some point in the past.

Nope, find a used door with the guts you need for those shells.

Yup, it will fit '70-76 models and even the '67 model if you make your own support bracket. Some models have the stud in a different place. If looks aren't a concern (can't see it unless you crawl under the dash anyway) making one out of plumber's tape is easy.

What happened to all the internal parts and glass from the replacement doors?

I can't tell from your photos exactly where that the bracket in the red door is in relation to where the vent frame would be. A better photo of the bracket itself might help too. IIRC the vent doors have the catwhisker clips just up the rear vent frame, and the Duster/Demon doors have them all...

If your existing heads are working fine, leave them alone and drive it. If they need changing, I'd just install the 675's and go. I'd wait until I wanted to do a complete build to change to the 920's It may be that installing them will boost the compression ratio up to where you have to run high...

Looks like you already have a distributor. Get a Pertronix kit and convert it would be the easiest and probably cheapest way to go. If you want to have the '72-up factory electronic, you'll need a distributor, ballast resistor, module, wiring, etc. I think you'd be better off with the...

They look good to me, but, you'll only be sure when you use them. Hopefully, you've converted to a solid state IVR setup. If the factory one goes bad, it usually fries the fuel and temp gauge.

Where are your lock knobs? Ones back by the rear edge are '67-8 type. Forward several inches and they're '69-up. Doors without vent windows are '70-2 Duster/Demon or '73-up all 2dr's. If you driver's side door still has the VIN sticker, that will tell the tale too.

The light is a separate circuit from the radio itself. One has no effect on the other.

The 2098288 rectifier (diode) is a positive, the 3000047 is a negative. They fit most '60-up Mopar alternators but not all. It will depend on application and output specs.

Your 1734078 pitman (sector shaft) bearings are for an early power box....'57-61?. The 2948801 bearing is for an A,B,E, manual box. Those numbers could have been superceded, or, are the superceded number from another number and may fit more applications. Sometimes you can go by the number that's...

Yup, I agree with what he has to say except for his use of the term "preload". There is no preload on the tapered roller bearings in the rear axle. Front wheel bearings technically are supposed to have some, although I never load them myself beyond finger tight. There is however an end play...

It's just a matter of design. Tapered roller bearing are a superior design over ball bearings. Just about every vehicle manufacturer went to tapered in the 1950's for front wheel bearings for that reason. They handle side loads better and last longer. Are green real axle bearings bad? No, just...

I looked, but, I don't seem to have any. Layson's lists reproduction lenses on their website. Kinda pricey, but, other lenses I've gotten from them have been of good quality. Good luck!

The manual console is '69, but, the automatic one is '66-8.

'67-up vehicles with a vent window.

IIRC, those were used on marine, industrial, and maybe some vans/motorhomes where you couldn't see the timing marks with a conventional timing light. That tube was for a magnetic/optical pickup type timing light.

67-9 Barracuda front and rear bumpers interchange. Just the brackets are different front and rear.

I assume this is not a wagon? I've never seen one with actual chrome. All the ones I've seen (on the 270 and GT) have a glued-on plastic trim bezel piece with some silver foil on the inside to make it look chrome-like. I don't think the 170's came with that bezel.

I have a pair of '66 seats where the lever goes forward to release the slide. I'll have to go look at another set to verify it's correct.

'58-66 B and C-body with the clamp-on type front sway bar.

I don't have an SKF catalog at the moment.

If that's a photo of your rear axle, it's an 8 3/4. That takes the A7 axle bearing.

Nope, not built into the tube. It's a separate tube attached by a hose to a nipple on the filler neck

If I were you, I'd return that cover and get a good used original.

Same cover.

If you have an 8 3/4 rear end, the most common number is A7. Bower/BCA also made a kit with A7RK for the right (passenger) side, and A7LK for the left side. Do you want the factory Mopar number?

I have a new M & H harness with the Mopar electronic ignition conversion if that's something that works for you. I bought it by mistake a while back and would be willing to sell it. PM me if interested.

I think I'd go ahead and get a reman factory harness. Then all you have to disconnect on an engine swap is the coil, temp, a alternator wires. Easy to figure those out.