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Thank very much for the help, in tracing the path like you suggested 67Dart273, I found that the field in the alternator itself was shorted and causing the regulator to fry. Even though I had it checked and it was supposedly good. got a new alternator, new regulator (FBO ignition solid state)...

Ok, here is an update on this thread. Here is a diagram of the way the car is wired with the battery in the trunk, except instead of a 1 wire alternator it is using a factory alternator and VR wiring, you can see how the feed wire is the wire that feeds the car from the trunk to the starter...

thank you very much taking the time to sketch up some diagrams. Should be helpful!

thank you for the help and suggestions! the diagrams are pretty much right as the car has a dedicated charging wire going to the trunk to the kill switch. I will print this out and do some checks like suggested. I will try to get out there this week and update you all. thanks again for the help

OK. That's prob not directly related then. How does power get to the main splice? The reproduction harness heavy black wire? Not sure which wire your talking about, the one that would normally go to the BAT stud on the alternator? That one is Shrinkwrapped and taped off. Is ignition using...

there is a kill switch, its wired with the ford style solenoid to the battery cable is only hot when cranking the car. the alternator cable has to go to the kill switch to cut power to whole car if the switch gets turned off, to pass NHRA Tech inspection.

yes it is the original style single field wiring harness. I am using a new dual field alternator since thats what you get at the parts store now, with 1 field grounded.

Ok first of all yes I searched the forum and found some information, but this situation is unique. background: 1968 dodge dart with a 440/727 New M&H wiring harness in the engine bay Original Harness under dash in very nice shape Battery relocated to the trunk Brand new Battery Brand new...

I wanted to follow up on this thread to help anyone out in the future. It turned out to be a combination of a bad ground for the headlights and a bad headlight switch. Fixed those things and everything now works as it should and the car fired up! Thanks again for all the replies and help.

So, even though I have power at both sides of the ammeter, just not connected to the alternator, it could cause this problem? I would think if it has power on both sides it would be feeding the black wire where it splits off from the "welded splice" to power the car and other things.

Sorry I guess I should have mentioned it is a 1968 Dodge Dart.

Ok I was able to work on it a little bit today, did some tracing with the meter. Ground is good, has power to the cut-off switch and power to the solenoid. It also has power feeding the car at the starter relay. The ammeter has power on both sides in the dash although it is disconnected from the...

Thank you for the responses so far, I did forget to mention that, yes the ford solenoid is in the trunk next to the battery and cut off switch. The purpose of the solenoid is to only energize the 1ga cable when actually starting the car. Other than that it is not hot at all times. Thank you for...

I finally finished wiring up the car using this wiring Diagram. My problem is, the car seems to be completely dead with no power going anywhere. Before I get out my meter and start tracing, I thought I would ask you guys what you would check, and what could be suspect? I grounded the battery to...

I did a search and looked up most threads, but still can't seem to find a definite answer. I am doing a battery relocation to the trunk, without the ford solenoid. I know it was suggested that adding a fuse on the positive side, using 0/1 guage wire would help if it ever chaffed through and...

Ok well I finally have a working gas gauge. It was displaying the usual IVR symptoms, worked sometimes, fluctuated readings, etc. Got a Demon IVR setup, put it in along with the modified fuel gauge, and now it works like a charm! no more topping off every time i want to drive it now. Thanks...

Ok first I want to say I searched and I could not find what I was looking for. I would like to put new spark plugs in my barracuda. I pulled one out to see what was in it, and it has champion rj9yc plugs (the 5/8 hex head) in it. It is a 360 with J heads, comp 268 cam, holley 750 carb, air gap...

well the thing is I am making sure it is going the right way, by lining it up with the post that is slips over to insure that it goes the right way.

Ok it seems simple enough, I got all new wiring harnesses from year one, dash wiring, engine harnesses, etc. When connecting to the new bulkhead, the engine harnesses are absolutely impossible to get to snap into place, like something is preventing it from going in, but all blade connectors are...

after looking at it more today, i am finding melted wires, and some of the connector melted as well. the big red wire where the fusible link is melted, and broke the blade off when i pulled it out. Anyone got a new harness? :(

Here is a weird question. I went outside to work on my car(1967 barracuda) after driving home from work, and i noticed the headlights were on. the headlight switch was not on nor were the keys in it. I figure the headlight switch might of gone out, I pulled the switch out disconnected it and...

Right now on my car I have an MSD 6AL, blaster 2 coil, and the MSD billet distributor with no vacuum advance. I would like to change it out to the MSD digital E-Curve distributor, it has vacuum advance and this is mainly a street car that will see the track every couple weeks.The previous owner...