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If you want a quick and inexpensive option, I'd recommend going with the Holley Sniper. Their software is easy and the small touch screen that comes with it is easy to navigate. I also recommend this option if you aren't familiar with EFI. Now if you have to have direct port, prepare to spend...

I've seen aftermarket universal keyless ignition systems, push to start style. The ones I saw had a credit card shaped key you could keep in your wallet. While I'm not necessarily of fan of the push to start feature, there's no way someone could start it without the key card. Cool thing about...

mug you’re using a distributor base as a cam sensor, they won’t fit in this arrangement. It’s really tight and it took a while for me to make it work. I made this bracket with the engine on a stand and it was a pain. It would be much worse if it’s in the car

I don’t have any of when I was making them. I just took this one last night for you. The lower portion is a flat bar that back 2 intake bolts go through. Then a perpendicular flat bar welded to that with some tubing perpendicular to that. The tubing goes through the flat bar. I set it all up to...

I would adjust the RPM on the AFR table to your usable RPM. You aren't going to be controlling AFR at 0 and 200RPM. Adjusting this can give you more resolution in your operation ranges.

It sounds like you are on the right track. Since I'm a self taught megasquirt tooner, I'm an expert at it....lol. Here's my $.02 Set your timing like a mechanical advance distributor. Get your AFR where you like it across all scenarios. After that's all set, adjust your timing. Timing does not...

Mine doesn’t fluctuate at all. I have an auto meter gauge. Maybe it’s the gauge that is too sensitive, not the actual float

I have a the same tank with aftermarket gauge. Mine is very stable. The only time I had an issue was when I first installed it and filled the tank with fuel, it didn't register as full. It didn't move until I drove the car a bit and it started working properly. I assume it was stuck in the down...

While converting to port injection is possible, I don't see the need on something like this. Get a Holley sniper, Fi-Tech, or any of the other TB EFI setups and be done with it. The crank trigger on the damper or pulley works just fine. Although I believe with micro, you can use the distributor...

Cool! Thanks for the info, I'll take a look at it. The next item I want to add is a shift light. You can see my gauge cluster if you look at my thread. I have all auto meter gauges like you. What I have noticed is I hit the rev limiter (set at 6800) and my auto meter tach shows around 5500. This...

I love seeing other people doing the EFI conversion on the LA engines. It's hard to see in this picture, but the Jeep sensor is under the coils. I made brackets and mounted them in the back so it looks like a "stock" engine when the air filter is on. I've got about 1000 miles on this setup so...

May I ask why so rich at cruise? Why not run at stoich or leaner during cruise?

Does the Edelbrock system have data logging? I'd recommend adjusting the idle timing to achieve the highest engine vacuum, especially with the LSA you have on that cam. I run the MS3X system and vary the timing at idle to smooth out the idle RPM. Basically when idle RPM drops timing advances...

From what I understand, port injection will allow for a leaner idle. I can and do run mine right at stoich. It also idles fine leaner than stoich. I don't have any experience with TBI, but I've read they need to idle slightly richer than stoich. I'm curious to find out the validity of this based...

If you're thinking EFI will give you more HP, think again. The theory has been proven many times. At the end of the day, a properly tuned EFI system vs. a properly tuned carb, should result in very similar HP levels. Don't forget an engine is an air pump. You can jamb as much air and fuel (N/A...

I like your thinking. It isn't, however, that crazy. There are companies out there that make ITB EFI setups for Chevy, Ford, and even G2 and G3 Hemis. The crazy part will be adapting those to either an LA or B/RB engine since the intake runners are close together. Either way, someone with fab...

Good conversation here guys... Andy, while I agree there can be some finite levels of failures within the electronics and software that most people can't fix or explain, simlilar can hold true for the Mopar orange ignition box. You aren't going to bust that thing open on the side of the road and...

There are obviously more components on an EFI engine, but if you actually understand it, like you understand a carb and distributor, fixing it is a piece of cake.

So are you saying a fuel pump for a carbed engine can't fail? I bet more than half of the guys on this forum are using an electric pump of some sort. They can fail just as easy as an EFI pump.

I'm using an MS3X (Megasquirt) It has full sequential fuel and spark. The throttle body is an Ebay special. The only bad thing is it's imported from China and the seller has zero information on what sensors it uses. I had to figure that out on my own, which wasn't that bad. I think I paid $180...

Yeah, I was worried about "period correct too"... I even made brackets to hold the 8 LS coils in the back so once the air cleaner was on it looked like it has a distributor... BTW. This is not a Pro Flow system. It's 100% custom built by me. That's an M1 manifold with bungs welded into it.

Does the engine idle rough or does it just act up under throttle? Is AFR ever steady or only when you feel the hesitation you describe? Is it an external AFR meter or one that is built into the EFI controller? Check the O2 sensor, they should be mounted with an angle pointing downward in the...

I would't blame solvents on a TPS failure as most of them are sealed up pretty good. It is a mechanical device, it can fail from wear. I serioulsy doubt this car has been driven enough to wear it out, but it is an easy thing to check off the list as being good. Checking with a ohmmeter should be...

I'd check the basics. Remember EFI needs high pressure fuel always. Check to make sure you have constant fuel pressure. What's the AFR showing, rich or lean? Are the plug wire boots good and not torn. Lots of easy things to check before assuming it's the controller or the tune that's the...

I have the tank, their pump, sending unit, and "corvette" filter/regulator. I have about 400 miles on it with a custom port injection setup. Everything works great so far. The pump can be hear for the 3 seconds it runs when you turn the key, but once the engine is running it can't be heard. The...

I'm using a "corvette" filter/regulator, so I have a single factory steel line for the feed. At all the connections I'm suing barb fittings with a hose clamp and auto parts store rubber line.

I've run it in both open loop and closed loop. I honestly think it works better in open loop. The stepper position is based on temperature in open loop. In closed loop it tries to reach a target RPM. I find adjusting the timing at idle vs. opening and closing the IAC has better results. The...

I've read a good way to determine idle timing is to find the amount of advance with the highest MAP. I didn't do this but seems like a good idea. My idle timing bounces between 18-20 degrees based on MAP. I mentioned 13" of vacuum above, my Kpa to inHg calculation in my head was wrong. I idle...

I've been trying to dial in the cold start on my setup. The one thing that has been driving me nuts in how high the engine revs once it starts. It would rev to about 2000 RPM then drop back down. The way the software works (as I understand it), is it opens the IAC wide open during cranking then...

How much vacuum do you have at idle with that 108CL cam? Does AF change when it gets rougher? And when you say rougher, do you mean it surges a little? Is the Sniper system running on speed density? Can the Sniper control your timing? One thing I did to smooth out the idle is finite timing...