Overheating on run stand

-
4spdragtop said:
Thanks Todd, yes, nerve wracking for sure. But feel better now. I'll feel better once in car and rolling down the road lol.
Click to expand...
You said last time I asked it has like 30 minutes run time. Now it has even more. I'd say you're safe to put the inner sprAngs in.
 
I never considered the curve as I know the blade throws the same flow either direction. But that curve would certainly be more efficient.

In the words of an old tool push of mine,

“It’s a pretty poor day if you don’t learn something new.”

Today is a good day.

Thank you once again FABO.
 
So Steve...

What was the magic bullet to running proper?
 
Thanks Dana, I think it was Karen not showing up... :lol: Truthfully I believe it was a combination of not anywhere near enough air flow(used Ridgid air mover this time) and putting fan blade on the proper way.
With blades on proper way it actually pulled the rad close to the fan. I heard it tick the shroud just above idle. Shut it down and shimmed the cradle to stop it flexing and getting sucked into fan at higher rpm.
**edit** timing too or lack of lol
Dana67Dart said:
So Steve...

What was the magic bullet to running proper?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
4spdragtop said:
Not sure what the issue is but rebuilt 340 is overheating on run stand. Fired up today(2nd time on stand) to dial in timing and it's overheating to approx 110-120*C.
1st fireup was no stat. 2nd fireup I installed 180 stat. Not 100% sure on what timing is at yet, but approx 30* at approx 2300 rpm with va and carb both plugged.
Think it's timing??
Video of 2nd start
Click to expand...

Find out what rpm full advance comes in.
But aside from that.. 34 degrees should be enough at the rpm you're breaking it in.
As for the radiator, is it clogged? Do you have a fan on the water pump and is it about an inch or closer to the radiator? Have you tried running a hose off the petcock leaving the cap off and having a hose basically just running into the radiator?
Could be timing, could be clogged rad core, could be cam timing off...check cranking comp test and see what psi yoy have.
Sounds clattery in the video.
 
I realize I'm late to this LOL

However this spawns the question who in the hell has a tight motor that runs hot because it's tight? LOL inconceivable.
That biotch would spin bearings if friction was literally created by short clearance.

In my experience only Motors that are new and running hot... is because the tune/timing isn't right yet...or they use an inadequate radiator/cooling system
 
Last edited:
Hi J, yeah timing/reversed fan blades and Ridgid fan rectified the issue. :thumbsup:
Clattery due to adjustable rockers. I've already dropped oil/filter and no signs of bad stuff. Pull the vc's tomorrow for a look see.
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I realize I'm late to this LOL

However this bonds the question who in the hell has a tight motor that runs hot because it's tight? LOL inconceivable.
That biotch would spin bearings if friction was literally created by shirt clearance.

In my experience only Motors that are new and running hot... is because the tune/timing isn't right yet...or they use an inadequate radiator/cooling system
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Looking like it's solved! 180*, 80 psi, 1000 rpm 32*, 2000 rpm 40*. No boilover.
I wonder when I can install inner springs?
Thanks all :thumbsup:

Click to expand...

That's great news, Steve! Congratulations!

naT.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top