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If you are adding it to an oil that is already blended then yes, it’s snake oil at that point.

I’ve used some Lucas stuff. It’s good stuff but it’s certainly not top shelf oils. I think LS jr. was testing just the additives and not the oil. I’m pretty sure that I’m almost 100% against any additives. The only exception is for the additive for limited slip diffs. An additive like that...

Good plan. More dogs will be coming your way. I have 4 dogs that need to be rehomed immediately. I may drop them at your place.

Does your pump have female pipe or are they inverted flare fittings?? A rumor I heard (and now I’m spreading) that these inverted flare fittings are coming with the wrong flare. I haven’t seen it myself yet but I’m hearing complaints that it’s true.

.750 lift has become commonplace. We need to be up to .950 where the big dogs eat.

That’s what he SHOULD be doing.

That’s all good and fine but is the dogs play area finished? If not, why are you working on car junk when the dog are in dire straits with no play area.

I’ve been meaning to ask if you still had a pro stock hood scoop for sale. I thought you had one for sale. If so and you want to sell it PM me.

That is a sure sign of detonation. Whatever you do, you have to get that under control. Water injection if you must but a good curve in the distributor and getting the coolant temp down to 180 or less (160 would be best) and double check the heat range of the plugs. I’d be looking at the rod...

Modern (if that’s what it really is because we are stuck with it) pump fuel has a fairly slow burn rate and it vaporizes very poorly. Pour a cup of pump gas on the floor and watch it. Then do the same with a race fuel and watch the difference. If you really want to check things out, do the...

They should match. If they don’t, believe the plug. But verify that too because you can be lean on the plug and dead rich in the chamber. That doesn’t look lean from what I can see. You really need an otoscope to look into the shell of the plug where it meets the porcelain. There should be an...

Seen this thing damn near get a car burning.

Are there any straight PAO oils on the market any more?? IIRC (and I may not be) Red Line was a straight PAO. Maybe it still is. I forget the limits of a Straight PAO base oil but again IIRC there are some different obstacles to overcome using that base oil.

Yup

That’s crank power. 9% what??

Gotta be less than that for me to even look at it.

Yes, that hole feeds the adjuster.

There are no base oils good enough to do the job on their own. That’s why they have additives. It’s kind of a crappy deal because you are dealing with the API who sets the parameters for oil. There are certain race engine oils out there that will pass the API parameters and it’s still a...

And at that you still may not get your parts after 12 months. I know Tom’s Performance Machine waited 31 months for a Dart LS block. He was told 6 months when it was ordered. Just dumb.

I met Forrest and Charlotte Lucas at Woodburn Dragstrip back when Morgan was running an alcohol digger before he went to the fuel car. Two incredibly nice people.

Naw, she’s been mean to me all day already so no sense getting her wound any tighter. I don’t want to sleep in the shop tonight.

Depending on how big your main air bleed is, you could be cruising on the main jet at 2800. If you are on the booster at 2800 then you need to drop the primary main jet to get the cruise AFR where it needs to be. If you are still on the T slots, I'd drop down to .048ish. If you get on the lean...

According to my trusty 1979 Isky catalog, the hydraulic lifter pushrod is 7.265 and the solid lifter pushrods should measure 7.531 so I was close when I said 7.500. What's .031 on the internet??? LOL You should be able to measure what you have and figure what you have. That's basically a 1/4...

That should let you know what you have. If no one does it before tonight I’ll look up the correct lengths and post them for you.

Pushrod length will tell you. A solid lifter takes a longer pushrod and the hydraulic takes a shorter pushrod because the seat is higher on the hydraulic. IIRC the solid lifter pushrod is roughly 7.500 inches and the hydraulic is a couple of hundred thou shorter

I’d rather have one hole. That’s all it needs to live the rocker at the shaft. Just banana groove it. I’m not a big fan of adding oil leaks at the rockers. For what you are doing you’ll get all the oil you need for the rockers and valve stems and all that with the oil flying around in the...

Save your money and use what you have. You buy something like those rockers and you are going way backwards. None of those aftermarket rockers are worth a crap unless you correct the geometry. Polish your shafts and grind a groove for oil. Get a brake cylinder hone and hone the rockers just...

No, but without the grooves you can’t get enough oil between the rocker and the shaft and the rocker will grab the shaft.

If you are running hydraulic lifters you need to put some angled grooves on the shaft across the oil feed holes. If you don’t, the rocker will grab the shaft. Should be done with solid lifters too.

And why does he do that?? Because RPM is horsepower and horsepower wins races.