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I like your information and thinking, The backing plates will get the first examination. My gut tells me the rear drum brake assembly (as received) was assembled using the original A-body backing plates. The incorrect backing plates likely explains why the parking brake adjusters do not line up...

good info.....I'm thinking a simple fix is adding a .175 spacer pack (gasket / steel shim / gasket) between the differential axle flange and the axle mounting flange. Hate to buy new axles or go to 1-3/4" brake assembly

the rear has a 2-1/2" brake assembly. backing plates, shoes / hardware, and drums. From reading above, I cannot simply put 1-3/4 shoes on the 2-1/2 backing plates / drums / hardware I have. is the problem the axles have the incorrect axle offset / brake gap for the 2-1/2 brake package...

lots of good comments and things to look at. I cannot answer some of the comments because I got the components in a stalled project....new axles with green bearings, complete rear drum brake package assembled with powder coated backing plates and new drums, 742 center section ready to bolt in...

that is / was my thinking, so I spaced the drum out with shims. no help but will take another look at it. how wide should the shoes be?

needs some help, 8-3/4, rear drums, everything new. the drums refuse to rotate when I tighten the wheel down. if I loose the lugs slightly, it will rotate, but when I tighten them down, movement / rotation stops. It does it on both sides the same with the wheel tire off (so it is not a tire...

I need a rebuild kit for the Flash's 9" front...... PM me with info please.

The Butch Leal /California Flash /B/MP Hemi Duster ran 9.50's @ 150 mph back in the 70's with those 9" brakes. But a set of Wilwoods would be a great upgrade. With a re-designed a few years ago, the hub is no longer moved significantly outward (maybe +.010") and come with 4" and 4.5" bolt...

Installing the 10" drum brakes (from a 8.25 housing) on a freshly re-done 8.75/small bolt circle/ adjustable bearing axles. It appears the housing flange/axle flange to the axle is appx 1/4" too narrow. I think I can find brake drums for the small bolt circle (1970) 8.75 rear and machine...

get Jimmy...he'll try anything!

that ECI unit looks promising...

Thanks....that was about 40 years ago...seems like yesterday! Some complain I never grew up... Oh well, time to head to the the shop...I gotta put the Sharktooth in my Hemi Duster

At 16 (1971), I installed a line lock on my '69 GTX after watching a 70 RoadRunner on Main Street...light em up.WOW. After the install I drove over to the grocery store I worked part-time at (carry-out), and after stopping in the bank parking lot in front ...I set the line-lock and immediatly...

when I did it(in WV) I loosened the U bolts on the rear....placed a foor jack under the nose of the pig and jacked untill the bleeders were horizonal(even checked with my angle finder on a socket/extension over the bleeder screw)after that procedure we(dave had come to WV to assist me)had an...

hows the clearance now between the tire/leaf spring???....apparently the studs were too long without the 1/4 spacer...any change with the clamping power of the rear calipers?? PS.. Jodee and I wish you,Sarah,and Todd a happy Thanksgiving.

no kiddin"...I had to fluff my wife for a week to get her "pedal pushin" for a couple of nights..then my brother drove down(225 miles one way) to take over...almost made it "fun"...too bad my compressor didn"t have the pressue/volumne to handle the air bleeder...I only spent a couple of hours...

wow...I know the pain...are you using a Strange master by any chance????...had similiar problem with the HemiDemon I worked on...changed all but kitchen sink...finally got one of the Mopar alum (knock off) master cyl (1.25) and got great pedal (stiffer than a wedding pecker)...but STILL (as far...

Jim...did you find some quality 1/4" spacers for the rear???? I was surfin' Jegs site and saw some dandys there.....anymore thought on sending the calipers to Right stuff for a "look see". anything new on Sheppard???

the distribution block we are using is the stock block for 4-wheel drum brakes...it is suppose to distribute the pressure evenly,while the block for disc brakes(we tried this one also) front disc/rear drum has a proportioning valve within it that I believe limits pressure to the rear...thats why...

the m/c we now have on is the Eberg (I beleive it is a knockoff of the Mopar piece no longer available thru Mopar)...the brakes were bleed the old fashion way..someone pushing on the pedal while I loosed the bleeder when pedal was at top and closed as we reached near bottom..I even loosened the...

I started out with the smaller Strange 1.o32 bore per their advice, FULLY bleed system....result...no pedal unless I pumped the crap out of it...called Strange and they advised they "had some production problems" and sent me another one,confirming the smaller size bore was the correct...