Recent content by chryslercruiser

Do you still have the small TQ?

I hesitate to say, as there may be differences between front sump, center sumps and rear sump.. I have a rear sump oil pan, and my dipstick tube broke off.. so I got a V8 dipstick..changed the oil, so I would know for sure how much was in the oil pan,... and then scribed new marks on the...

I now have a 4 gallon bucket swimming pool with 1" aluminum dowel, and Peanut butter on two pop rivets opposed in the middle, and cheese stuck on the ends and PB on the cheese.. so I can catch multiples of the suckers.. |--------I-------| | | |...

Thank You. Not much fun, but I will be relieved to get it done, and know it is clean!

Help me understand what might commonly be known as the cowl.. Is this the area below the wiper blades, including down to the heat blower motor area? How do I get good access to the cowl?

Thanks Halfafish, just what I was looking for! I got the majority of the nest out of the trunk by holding my breath, and doing the work outside.. I will put on a respirator when I go to sticking my head in the truck and removing the floor mat. Off to find urine digester, and Angry Orange Oder...

Ok, I will investigate the blower motor for evidence..

What do you use? I found a mouse nest the size of a basket ball in the trunk.. much less trouble and cleaning to do in the passenger area but planning on removing the rug and giving everything a shampoo..

Is the float absorbing fuel and getting heavy? That would be my first guess... especially if you have already readjusted it once, and it continues to be start running rich over time.. I replaced the plastic-foam float in my 1945 with brass.. NOT sure that such is a good practice, as it was...

What is your cranking compression? That gives a good beginning place for tuning benchmarks...

Depending upon your budget... I would prioritize head work, around the valves, or larger valves before spending $$ on headers... for two reasons.. One it allows for headers later if you want more performance, AND the head work is already done.. If you spend the money on headers, with small...

The "RIGHT" one is a carb that allows your newly rebuilt engine to run well, and provides seamless drivability... unless you are creating a museum piece.. The "original" carb looks to have been 'remanufactured'... if it runs ok then you are lucky and you can feel good that you have an original...

Thanks for the recommendation..

Anyone want to offer some words on the experience of an engine liking 32 better than 30? or what ever the total advance is.. And how do YOU personally go about experimenting to find out what the engine likes best.. All on a street car, no drag strip near by.. I'm interested in how others...

Yes, and now that you say it I remember reading here that DD put the front-rear "Y" back near the rear axle and it gave good off idle power.. that is what I am looking for.. Then how to size it so it does not become a cork at 4500.. but realistically I am in the 1500-3000 range and most often...