Recent content by SIX225

Did you replace the lower control arm bushings? I believe the pivolt is suppose to be torqued after the ride height is set otherwise they may be binding.

On my '68 the stamped steel part that the switch attaches to was bent when someone pulled the pedal back replacing the mastercyclinder. I had to replace it with another as no matter how much I bent it straight, it would flex/wobble just enough and have the same problem you are having.

I've been considering them too. My question is will they become "stuck" on the ball joint stud or inside the spindle if I would need to replace the joint or swap to the bigger ball joint at a later point.

If someone swapped to an 8 1/4, I'd bet that the fronts swapped to discs and 5 on 4.5 too.

Thanks!

Any part numbers for the boots? I need to replace both my tie rods and ball joints.

I think there was a thread about the OD and ID of bushings not being correct tolerneces for press fits. Lower control arm bushing slides onto pin

When did the problem start? Looks like a few new parts. Were these replaced trying to fix the problem, or did it start after replacing them?

Just a driver? Drop the pan, check the bearings, timing chain and maybe a rear seal. Learned that one the hard way with an Olds 307Y that I put into an Electra I had from great aunt. Most other stuff can be done while the engine is in the car.

Mine had sat for years before the previous owners got it running again. First couple years it probably used a quart every 500 miles. It's better now, but suspect the valve stem seals have crumbled away. Probably only put 1500 miles on a year so I haven't done anything yet.

I'll second the marine gauge pod radio. I have that same one too. The only thing I don't like about it is the push button up/down on the volume is a pain while driving with the top down. I've bought different with a rotary knob, but have yet to install it. Crutchfield has a several...

Did you rebuild the carb or is it a remanufactured one? Just because it was bought as a rebuilt, doesn't mean it was done right. My float on my 1920 was so far off, I'm surprised it even ran. If I recall the float was suppose to be set at about 3/16" and it was more like 3/4".

Project creep, but with the engine out, might consider swapping the K frame due to the one year only idler arm. Also, what do you have for brakes?

Also the trans linkage.

No sticker, but the air cleaner looks big enough to be a super six setup.