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Is the shaft worn where it runs in the bronze bush in the block [ assuming your block has the bronze bush ]?

Yep. That is why you get a set of used factory lifters.......& get them re-faced to use with a new cam. Unless you want a second failure......

You really going to rely on 'Adv duration' numbers? The Chrys cam & the Pontiac cam have 225 & 224 @ 050. Their adv numbers are 284 & 301....... Or two Crane cams, both 273 @ 050, but 308 & 330 Adv duration.

Ant, Get DVs SB Chevy book, SA books #57. Money well spent. It has a couple of pages of cams, hyd & solids, FTs & rollers, from mild to wild, for various engine sizes. It gives LSA & duration for these cams & you will be able to make an INFORMED decision on a cam for your engine. I believe...

Ahhhhh, yes always use big carbs. Just Mopar Joe tried that on a 440, Torker 2. 1050 Dom made 6 hp more than a 850.....but the 850 had 6 ft/lbs more tq @ 4000 rpm, & very likely more below 4000. That means in a race, the 850 would be in front @ 4000.....& the 1050 playing catch up.

Ign type does not cause slow cranking. You need a high HP starter. The MSD Dyna Force is over 3 hp. Some companies make a range of starters, with some less than 2 hp.

Ramm, We got told a couple of days back on this forum, that two 850 carbs were not too big for a small block stroker. Maybe Nick should have tried these.....

3402, You are close to the 290 @ 050 limit, so use the 8 position method. Some people are making too much of this, almost anal. You have roller lifters.......& presumably roller rockers. A roller lifter has two areas that can vary in dimension [ that a FT lifter does not ]. How accurate the...

Post #15. Newbomb Turk. Wrong...AGAIN.

When advancing or retarding a cam, you are doing so in crank degrees, NOT cam degrees. So in the example in post #22, one tooth would be 15.8*. that is a lot. Yes confusing. Regarding cam timing [ in degrees ], the only number that is in cam degrees is the LSA. Every thing else, ICL, ECL &...

Your problem is likely excessive bearing endplay inside the s/box. Not sure on your model, but on many cars this is adjustable without removing the s/box.

The 4 position method is accurate up to 290 @ 050 duration; more than that, the 8 position should be used. Once the initial adjustment/running in is complete, the random method is the most accurate.

Crower make stud s/s rockers.

Had exact same problem with a Pert module. Died suddenly....but started after engine cooled down. Owner no longer trusted the Pert & switched to HEI. Going well now, well over 10 yrs.

The 383/400 Chr has the highest rod/stroke ratio of ALL the popular BB engines. That means they do not breath well at low/mid rpm, all else being equal. Sig Erson, a very clever cam grinder, realised this DECADES ago & issued the warning below; although it refers to the 440 [ has a high r/s...

You either have the wrong m/c.....or the wrong pushrod.....or both.

I would be looking at the coil, points & cond, or ECU if elec ign.

If you guys think the 'US made' FT lifters are OK, then you should watch a few Powell Machine Co videos...

If the body of the alt was not earthed, then there would no current flow through the alt & therefore no heat generated. I cannot see how the alt can be mounted [ with bracket etc to the engine ] without being earthed.....

Clean plugs with Lacquer Thinner & toothbrush. Good to go. But why were they fouled? good chance it is that shiny thing bolted to the intake with 4 bolts.....

From Crane cams, years ago. To feel a difference, adv or ret the cam a MINIMUM of 4*.

Reduction in Hemi piston skirt length with the longer rod....... The Hemi rod was less than a 1/10" of an longer the 440 rod. Doesn't make sense to use a longer rod, solely for the purpose of a 0.09" shorter piston that was already very heavy with it's domed top. Moving the pin up in the piston...

Maybe tight bearings?

I didn't read 36 posts. Mike Jones, aka Cam King & renowned cam grinder said a while back that the FT lifters are made off shore, only one company making them in the US. This week on Speed talk he said he has Chebby lifters.....for $320. So if you are getting lifters for much less.....they are...

So, no ign box, just a bal res? That would be correct for 1967....which is: ign coil, points & condenser. I would start by replacing the points & cond.

There was a guy on forums by the name of Dave Ray. Haven't heard from him for a while. [ Which is good because a lot of what he posted was BS ] Claims he worked on the development of GMs HEI. He also claimed he had 50 gal drums [ plural ] full of dead Pert modules....

I learned my Optima 'lesson' a few years ago. New Optima red, about 18m old. Going down a hill, engine died, no warning. Pulled over, batt was down to about 7v. This was NOT a charging problem. After sitting for a few hrs, bat voltage came back up to 12v. Bat was under warranty, but Optima would...

Thanks, mate!

If the electrical system is stock, the total draw is probably a few amps [ single figures ] less than the alt rating.

Those modules are pretty cheap. I would replace it. Use heat transfer paste between it & the mounting. NOT dielectric grease!