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Have you verified that all vacuum hoses are sealing properly? And if it is internal, it’s not hard to just pull the intake and reseal.

Ehhhh, they run a business and it's their job to sell you their services. I wouldn't hesitate

220 and 100 core. I ordered mine a month ago and still waiting so plan on it taking a few weeks. I got the 213/220 grind for my 360.

Make sure it’s all the way in the gauge and well greased. Does it make noise too?

I'm about 90% certain that's for the ammeter. Is it going through the bulkhead connector or bypassing it?

Sounds like ammeter or starter from ignition switch.

It’s a lot easier if you remove the choke blade first

For what you are pointing to on the top, I take the top of the carb off and turn it upside down and then take out the linkage from the hole. IIRC the other things you are pointing to can all stay together. Quick tip: don’t forget about the screws in the choke horn that hold the top on.

Anyhow you asking this question tells me you haven’t held a carburetor in recent history. If you’re really this curious you could get a car and start learning for real.

There are two rings of splines. The roll pin holds the coupler to the input shaft of the steering box by passing along the grove in between. You need a new seal.

Transfer slot adjustment is done through the idle speed screw.

I got mine from classic industries. It’s been fine, had no problems.

More throttle opening means denser air fuel charge and therefore faster burn. So less timing is needed to take advantage of the combustion.

Honestly I feel like its not grounding to the intake. Take a spare sender and hook it up to the cable and then hold the threads to some exposed metal and see if you get some action.

Even new ones can be iffy. The fluctuating voltage is perfectly normal. The problem has to be with the sender if grounding the wire gets the gauge up. Are you sure that the sender itself is grounding as it should?

That’s what I was saying until it was 41 degrees and I was pressed for time early in the morning but couldn’t get the damn thing to idle. Holley VS with electric choke was a good deal. Makes life easier. Start and 10 seconds later pull away like it has efi.

14” SBP steelies do not clear the calipers on the SBP 63-76 (dr diff) kit without a spacer and considerable grinding. Ask me how I know. 14BBP definitely work though, they came stock.

How does it steer? Does it want to dart side to side? Often you can feel generally what’s up with the front end. What does the eyeball alignment inspection say?

Looks fine to me. I’d run it

These things can be hit or miss. I’d look for one off a parts car.

Rebuilt 800cfm double pumper. Comes with provisions for manual choke. Tested. Asking $300, prefer pickup in LA area but will ship.

manual 15/16” is 100% the way to go.

You should just be able to crank the big nut down until its all the way on the splines. Remove the horn pad and you’ll see what I mean. Be gentle.

Looking for a power column to manual box adapter. Wondering if anyone has one laying around before I get a new one. Thanks

The wheels do turn somewhat depending on the caster. Locking the brakes stops this. I’m not how much of a difference it makes.

Where are your cam bolts in the adjustment range? Also can you see by eye that one side has negative caster when you turn the steering wheel? If so the inside wheel would be negatively cambered.

600 sounds fine. If it doesn’t stumble at wot, it’s not too big. I suspect it is effectively a stock 318.

It’s an opportunity for content and to get people like you guys talking and spreading the video. That’s all.

There are some mismatch issues between the 340 manifolds and magnum heads. A thread or two on here discusses that.