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Trust me, you don't need to see the video. Nick talks a lot without saying much and there is nothing in this video that you don't already know. Basically he tests a stock engine and finds out that it performs like a stock engine and then he pretends to not understand why that is.

At the shop I work with it costs roughly $4500 for all of the labor associated with machine work, balancing, bearing and ring fit, surfacing, assembly and then dyno test. Stroker engines are usually around $7500 of parts and $4500 for labor so out the door around $12K but that number varies all...

I don't know. It isn't something that I ever bothered to check since very few engines are built with gear drives. I'm sure that the design could be modified slightly to accommodate a gear drive if that was a requirement.

I'm not interested in making those covers again but I would sell my original CAD files and sign over the design rights and permission to access the tooling files for $500 The machine code files are owned by the machine shop that built the parts for me so the parts would need to be run there, but...

I suppose you are correct. Nick probably makes more money from YouTube than he does from engine building so maybe posturing for YouTube clicks is what it is all about now.

I watched some of that 383 dyno session but I lost interest before it finished. Engine looked like a resto project so it was weird that Nick was so worked up. Maybe he is just always worked up? Resto projects don't make power, they look pretty. Hard to tell in the video but it looked like a...

You can change over to B or E body drum brakes. It is an easy conversion if you have the parts in hand.

Yeah that looks like a good grind. We use Gaterman lifters and I think that the Howard hyd roller lifters are sourced from Gaterman so they should be okay. OP will need to make sure his valve springs match the new camshaft.

It is a fair price if it was put together correctly with decent parts. Before buying it you should ask for a parts list and look over the receipts.

Dedicated drag car I'd go with struts up front. Struts are lightweight, don't take up much room and will add value when you sell the car. They do a require a professional install but if you already have a full cage then it shouldn't be too difficult.

Leave the perches loose and have them welded on once the car is put together. With leaf springs you can't guess since the leafs move around a ton. If you have a Calvert setup you might be able to mock it up but even then I'd wait until the car was together. If you have a four link you can figure...

The shop I work with builds Mopar stroker engines all the time. There are usually three or four of them in process. They usually end up costing between $10K and $15K depending on the parts used. You can build a good street motor on a budget but you have to be super careful about part selection...

Thanks. That was back in the days when I had a cushy side gig writing for Motor Trend. They would pay me $1500 for the article and the vendors would send me the parts at a discount or sometimes for free. I had to do all the labor and pay for the dyno time, but I usually broke even once I cashed...

Depends on the lift. A higher rocker arm ratio won't change the advertised duration much, but it can easily double or triple the duration at the higher valve lifts. Of course, those events happen very, very quickly so it might not have much effect on power. On my 511 race engine I would pick up...

Higher ratios add duration at the higher lifts points. Adds more area under the curve.

Sometimes more ratio helps and sometimes it doesn't. I spent a few thousand dollars proving this. https://www.motortrend.com/articles/trying-find-extra-power-rocker-arm-testing/

I've built a bunch of 400 based engines over the years. The 512 is a good street combo, the 470 makes a nice race engine. 700 hp is fairly easy to make with Trick Flow 270 heads, 800 hp can be done, but is probably at the limit of a stock block. This pump gas 470 made 780 hp.

I don't make pulleys. I don't have that kind of equipment and neither do my regular vendors. I used to have Doty make some pulleys for me, but Doty is super busy with his main business so the performance stuff gets pushed to the side

I've used stock hubs as well as hubs from Baer and Doctor Diff. I've also had custom hubs made. Just all depends on the circumstances. The Mercedes rotors were modified slightly to fit on a 5 on 4.5 BC hub.

If you have an extra cam on hand you can see where the oil holes are and figure out where the crankshaft needs to be to oil the top end. All cams should be drilled the same way since I'm sure it is part of the spec. On a big block one side oils when the crank is TDC split overlap. The other...

Talk to Rob at Mancini Racing. If Doty isn't making the lower pulley anymore then Mancini can find a vendor to make it. Mancini sells a lot of those kits. There are a lot of vendors who make shallow pulleys but none of them have a Mopar pattern on them. It isn't difficult to put the Mopar...

I've never seen an issue with that. I've had a Sniper in my car for 8 years now and I've installed dozens of Snipers on other cars. Maybe there is a capacitor on the input line that provides a little bit of "smoothing" so the ECU sees enough voltage to stay turned on.

On an old Mopar it is much more difficult than just 4 wires to hook up. Anyone who is thinking of buying a Sniper should spend a few hours reading the Sniper forum on the Holley website. The Sniper is a great product, but they are difficult to install for a lot of people. People who can't figure...

AMK makes them. I used to buy 1000 at a time when I was making spring hangers.

The MSD 6AL will work fine with a Sniper and so will the coil that you are using. The MSD distributor won't work so send it to the swap meet and budget for a Hyperspark distributor.

Why not use a billet cover that has o-rings for seals?

The Sniper is probably your best bet. They have a lot of support and they generally work pretty well but they aren't perfect. I highly recommend buying from Summit rather than direct from Holley. Summit will exchange the Sniper if there is a problem but Holley won't. I also highly recommend a...

Pulling timing in high gear or adding timing in high gear has been a debate for many, many years. The answer is "do what the car wants". There is some good theory behind both and it has to do with the fuel curve of the carb. Adding or pulling timing is often a crutch to fix a fuel curve issue...

That thread was 2016 and I switched to EFI in 2017. Holley made a ton of changes to the emulsion circuits of the newer carbs but never explained it. It wasn't just Holley though since other carb vendors like QF did the same thing. Even the tuners like Braswell made big changes. I never did find...

And what happened to the tooling for the 340 resto block? If Mopar didn't want to make the blocks anymore why didn't they sell the tooling to someone like Dart? Or ship it to China and let ProCopyCat make them?