Hey all, I did a search looking for a "how to" on rebuilding Hurst 4 spd shifters...didnt find much, but I did find a video on youboob posted by someone doing one for his Ford Falcon. Similar enough, so I used his as a reference.
It was pretty easy actually, BUT I will say that I did not take the "stick" apart, springs and all seemed good so I left it alone. If anyone wants to add some advice, feel free.
I have a couple shifters, but the one I chose to document is a Hurst Competition Plus(no stop bolts??) Pretty grungy/greasy though!
Sorry I dont know how to put text between pics. So text then pics.
Tools were all basic hand tools, vice and a bench grinder with wire wheel.
1st I soaked it in parts cleaner, then once some of the grime was off it, I dried it and then soaked for a day in rust remover.
Remove lower thin inspection plate with a thin screwdriver. There's 2 slots, 1 in the case and 1 in the plate that hold it in place. **careful its sharp**
I then used a large screwdriver and pried out the rear plate from the case. There is a tab on each side of the plate to hold it in the case. You may have to bend the case a bit, to get the plate out, but you can bend it back later.
Once plate is out, there is a large spacer that the upper bolt goes thru/in. Once the spacer is knocked out the rest of the assembly can be removed from the case. Knock the spacer so it comes out the side Hurst is stamped on.
** before removing any of the shims and plates, be sure you pay attention to the order that they come off in. **
The 1st shim to come off is the "wavy washer"
Short shifter lever (3rd and 4th gear)is removed next.(outwards bend)
Next is the slightly longer lever(I believe 1st n 2nd gear and it has an inward bend)
**note no shim between those 2 levers**
Next is the thickest of the 3 shims, then the reverse lever(longest one with inward bend)
In the below pic the order they come off starts at the top and goes left to right.
As I mentioned I didnt disassemble the stick on this one as once it was cleaned it looked good. Although I did disassemble one on another shifter...BUT its a bit of a pain and still in pieces LOL, so we will skip that part.
The new shims I got from Brewers Performance appeared different from the originals (see pics), so I contacted Wayne n Dan and they said its all good. Hurst changed levers and shims a few times thru the years and they state they will interchange.
Cleaned all the plates up and sprayed them as well as new shims with a dry lube from Dupont.
I put the spacer/pin in the stick to help align everything, but it will be removed after all shims plates are on stick.
I installed plates/shims in reverse order of how they come off. Once installed on stick with the button I sprayed a little more lube.
I noticed my case had spread apart a bit from me prying the plate out earlier, so I put it in a vise and gently squeezed back together.
Remove the spacer and slid as an assembly in the case. Once plates, shims n stick were in case, I used screwdriver to help align the holes for spacer install. Remember to install spacer/pin from the Hurst side. I put the bolt thru the spacer and held in place with a zip-tie.
I used another long screwdriver to align the shift levers. Weird the reverse lever didn't have a hole for the screwdriver, but I was able to align them. I'm not sure why this is done, but it is what I have seen/read, so I did the same.
Front plate and bolt was installed and another zip-tie to hold the bolt in place.
Last was the bottom inspection plate. I then coated everything with more Dupont Teflon.
That & #8217,s pretty much it, hope this makes sense and it helps some out. As I said feel free to ad to it. I will be redoing the stick on another shifter later on.
Cheers
Steve
It was pretty easy actually, BUT I will say that I did not take the "stick" apart, springs and all seemed good so I left it alone. If anyone wants to add some advice, feel free.
I have a couple shifters, but the one I chose to document is a Hurst Competition Plus(no stop bolts??) Pretty grungy/greasy though!
Sorry I dont know how to put text between pics. So text then pics.
Tools were all basic hand tools, vice and a bench grinder with wire wheel.
1st I soaked it in parts cleaner, then once some of the grime was off it, I dried it and then soaked for a day in rust remover.
Remove lower thin inspection plate with a thin screwdriver. There's 2 slots, 1 in the case and 1 in the plate that hold it in place. **careful its sharp**
I then used a large screwdriver and pried out the rear plate from the case. There is a tab on each side of the plate to hold it in the case. You may have to bend the case a bit, to get the plate out, but you can bend it back later.
Once plate is out, there is a large spacer that the upper bolt goes thru/in. Once the spacer is knocked out the rest of the assembly can be removed from the case. Knock the spacer so it comes out the side Hurst is stamped on.
** before removing any of the shims and plates, be sure you pay attention to the order that they come off in. **
The 1st shim to come off is the "wavy washer"
Short shifter lever (3rd and 4th gear)is removed next.(outwards bend)
Next is the slightly longer lever(I believe 1st n 2nd gear and it has an inward bend)
**note no shim between those 2 levers**
Next is the thickest of the 3 shims, then the reverse lever(longest one with inward bend)
In the below pic the order they come off starts at the top and goes left to right.
As I mentioned I didnt disassemble the stick on this one as once it was cleaned it looked good. Although I did disassemble one on another shifter...BUT its a bit of a pain and still in pieces LOL, so we will skip that part.
The new shims I got from Brewers Performance appeared different from the originals (see pics), so I contacted Wayne n Dan and they said its all good. Hurst changed levers and shims a few times thru the years and they state they will interchange.
Cleaned all the plates up and sprayed them as well as new shims with a dry lube from Dupont.
I put the spacer/pin in the stick to help align everything, but it will be removed after all shims plates are on stick.
I installed plates/shims in reverse order of how they come off. Once installed on stick with the button I sprayed a little more lube.
I noticed my case had spread apart a bit from me prying the plate out earlier, so I put it in a vise and gently squeezed back together.
Remove the spacer and slid as an assembly in the case. Once plates, shims n stick were in case, I used screwdriver to help align the holes for spacer install. Remember to install spacer/pin from the Hurst side. I put the bolt thru the spacer and held in place with a zip-tie.
I used another long screwdriver to align the shift levers. Weird the reverse lever didn't have a hole for the screwdriver, but I was able to align them. I'm not sure why this is done, but it is what I have seen/read, so I did the same.
Front plate and bolt was installed and another zip-tie to hold the bolt in place.
Last was the bottom inspection plate. I then coated everything with more Dupont Teflon.
That & #8217,s pretty much it, hope this makes sense and it helps some out. As I said feel free to ad to it. I will be redoing the stick on another shifter later on.
Cheers
Steve
