**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

Well I started the mock up of my GT45 Ebay turbo's. I will try and document everything that I can and take alot of pictures.

As most of you know, I have already done a Triangulated 4 Link, mini tub, and the back half of the cage.

My Set up will be a 410 Small Block Mopar with 9:1 Compression using RHS INDY X Heads, The motor alone should make about 500HP at the crank, 2 GT45 Ebay Turbo's, 2 60mm Wastegates, 2 50MM Blow off valves, Block Hugger Headers to keep the cost and fabrication to a minimum, 2 air/water intercoolers, 1 mounted in each front fender well, a heat exchanger mounted up front with 2 10" Fans and a closed loop ice box in the trunk for race purposes. I will also be using an AIS Stage 2 Meth injection kit with multiple nozzles. I am shooting for 700-800RWHP....................

As of last night I have 1 Turbo mocked up so far. I hope to have the other one done by this Saturday!

This is the car on the ground after a home built Triangulated 4 Link and Mini Tub, Disc Brake conversion.

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This is the rear of the cage tacked in ready for my buddy to come over and finish up the front half of the cage. I don't like the kits how they come in the cockpit area, he will turn it into a 12pt. Nicely tucked thru the dash etc.

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I had to remove the pan and I notched the corner of it instead of cutting the K FRAME, I am drilling tapping and welding the Turbo Drain Bungs into the new Beautiful Milodon pan anyway................soooooooooooooooooooooooooo

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Here we go!

Pictures of the turbo's, measurements. V Band Flange etc.

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This is where I am setting them in the engine bay to see how in the F*** all this stuff is going to fit under this little abody hood without cutting the crap out of the car. This took me a while to figure out but I think I have it under control. This is after 15hrs of starring at it!


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I did not think the alternator was going to fit butttttl I got it to go in the factory spot! Still in the mock up phase. I wish the headers would have been here. I could have probably finished the Turbo Hot side today.


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I am using 2 60mm Wastegates and 2 50mm Blow off valves. These were purchased thru ebay also.

I am still waiting on the other wastegate that was back ordered. It should be here next week.

Anyway I was doing some reading on these parts and decided to take them apart and check them out. I did find that all the O rings were tore in the wastegate, a nut was the wrong size and probably would have came off. SOooooooooo, I basically rebuilt it with new o rings, new nut and jam nut to hold the diaphram on. The Diaphram is made out of some good material, it looks exactly like the Tial Diaphram! I cleaned it all up and used RED Locktite on all the allen bolts, nuts etc. I polished the valve and also put a healthy dose of anti sieze on it. The valve is made out of SOLID STAINLESS.

I also took out the middle spring and left the skinny coil which is the fattest spring in it. I hooked it up to bench test it and the valve opened smoothly at about 4lbs of boost. So I hooked up my Hallman boost controller and turned up the boost pressure to 45lbs. That thing works awesome. I can control the boost from 4lbs all the way up to the set pressure of 45+ or whatever I set it at. The valve opens SMOOTH and closes perfect.

I also took apart the Blow off Valves and inspected them. They were fine with nothing to report. I did however take out the same spring "the middle one" and bench tested both of them with a TEE and calibrated them to open at the exact same time with 10lbs of back pressure. So when the throttle shuts the butterfly's on the carb at say 5lbs of boost the pressure in the intake tube will probably go to 10+ lbs and BLOW off the boost in the tract! They work awesome on the bench!

**UPDATE** The other wastegate showed up and It had the same problems. It took me about 15 minutes to do the same minor rebuild and calibrate it to up at the exact same time as the other one on the test bench!!


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This shows the 3" to 2 1/2" Reducer I had made at a muffler shop out of 13 Gauge material. These cost me a whole $7.00, I felt guilty so I bought the guys some Taco's also!! This will weld directly to the Turbo Flange.

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2 Air to Water intercoolers will be mounted in the front fender wells.

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When the car is on the ground at ride height you will have a hard time seeing these!

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The Hedman Block Hugger headers finally got here!
And the mock up begins........

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I had to notch the front frame rail to make room for everything to clear. This will get a piece welded back in.

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Mad Dart,
Whree are your motor mounts from? Home made? L8r

Jim

Ok, 1 Turbo is mocked up and tacked in place.

I set it at the exact degree that the engine sits in and it is level and square to it also. It took quite a bit if figuring so the Alternator would clear in the factory spot. I will need to use about a 2" Shorter fan belt which is no big deal.

I also had to make sure the hood would shut and that the exhaust out would clear the Shock rod and Nut.

In the same way I needed to make sure I had enough room for the intercooler piping, wastegate and enough room for a Conical style filter....ughhhhh it was a pain in the arzzzz but it was fun and I enjoy doing this stuff:-D:-D


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Mad Dart,
Whree are your motor mounts from? Home made? L8r

Jim

No I bought these here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4695/

I will be making my own SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS though! I raised the engine about a 1/4". When doing this swap from a 6 to an 8 the motor mount on the passenger side is ALOT thicker than the Solid Motor mounts you can buy. Sooooooo the solution to that problem is to make my own!

cool build man!! i like it!

Damn! This is a sick build!!! You truly are Mad! LOL

Holy s#!t man.. Thats going to be one wild ride for sure. SUBSCRIBED

I will be supporting both Turbo's either from the frame rail or off the cylinder head. The turbo flanges will be triangle boxed into whatever I end up making.

WOW! Look at that. Some real nice work there Louis. That think is going to be wild.

Where did you get the intercoolers from? What is the plan for the drivers side?

Louis you just need to sell your house and move next door to me here in Utah. That way I have some cool stuff to look at while I hang out and drink beer at your place. LOL. Build is looking great. Awesome.

Very interesting, I plan on following this and learning something. Thanks for the pictures!

Why the Hedmans? You obviously have welding/fab skills... so why not make your own headers? Especially since the exhaust system is such a critical part of this build. Seems like you could make it/tune it however you want. Just curious.

Thanks guys for the compliments!

Where did you get the intercoolers from? What is the plan for the drivers side?

These are the EXACT same Intercoolers that Frozenboost.com sells except I got 2 of them delivered off Ebay for $168.00 instead of $149.00 Each!

The Drivers side will be exactly the same except that the exhaust in will be a little bit different is all. I am trying to Mirror the exact location on the drivers side and have the exhaust dump in the same location on each side.

I just bought a 4" Hole saw to cut some holes in the inner fender well for the intercooler piping! The goal is to have 2 holes on each side that are in the exact same spots. I am trying to make it clean and use some type of trim after the cut to detail it out. Maybe some type of door trim?

Why the Hedmans? You obviously have welding/fab skills... so why not make your own headers? Especially since the exhaust system is such a critical part of this build. Seems like you could make it/tune it however you want. Just curious.

Read Post #1

They say boost is like Crackkkkkkkk, so eventually someday I probably will upgrade the whole system.

Also on the passenger side it would be VERY difficult to run the exhaust out of the car without molesting the inner fender wells to where there is not much left. The goal here also is not to cut the car up a whole bunch!

Also check this out, post 13 in this thread......................http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143580.0;topicseen

It made almost 1600 HP using Block Hugger Headers! Damn:-D

i would be inversting in alot of heat blankets and such because that exhaust and those turbos will be thrown heat like nothing else!

i would be inversting in alot of heat blankets and such because that exhaust and those turbos will be thrown heat like nothing else!

Yes you would be correct. Plans have already been made to protect everything.

Read Post #1

I did, just had to ask.

Looking good Louis!When do you have to be back to the Asylum?I now know for sure you,ve gone MAD!!!LOL.Will be following your handywork closely.

Showing how compact the install will be.
You could make some type of a LOG style header to keep its piping below the inner fender well on both sides so the exhaust out would not have any problems exiting the engine bay WITHOUT cutting a hole like a Fender well type of header needs in the inner fender well??


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Be interesting to see how long the alternator lives, even with heat blankets and what not....

Be interesting to see how long the alternator lives, even with heat blankets and what not....

I thought about that also. I may build a heat deflector shield that wraps around the alternator. I will buy the one from NAPA with the Lifetime Guarantee so if it takes a chittt, I get it for free!:-D

On the import cars they must have the same issues I would think.

If you think about it the exhaust will only FLARE up under major boost right?? Just crusing the car around it should be ok is my thinking. I will never hold it down for more than 8.8 seconds at a time right?? haaaaa

Was watching some you tube videos of boosted stuff the other day, exhaust got cherry red almost instantly on a few of them. Know nothing about this stuff but what I have read. Page 62 of "Street Turbocharging" makes mention that schedule 40 weld els are adequate for most turbo applications. Goes on to say that for long term durability and strength at the high temperatures in a turbo application, it is generally recommended that schedule 40 or thicker be used. Considering it is going to take a bit of boost to do what you want to do it has me wondering how the thin tubing of a set of mild steel headers will hold up, as well as what effect that long tube from the collector to the turbo will have. Most, if not all, of the turbo headers I have seen have the turbo flange at the end of the collector. Again, I know next to nothing about turbocharging, just thinking out loud. I understand that there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.... I do know that years ago I helped a friend with drag car on a regular basis. His headers were Jet Hot coated, and you could literally grab the headers 30 seconds after the car had made a pass down the strip...might want to consider coating instead of heat wraps and blankets....

Was watching some you tube videos of boosted stuff the other day, exhaust got cherry red almost instantly on a few of them. Know nothing about this stuff but what I have read. Page 62 of "Street Turbocharging" makes mention that schedule 40 weld els are adequate for most turbo applications. Goes on to say that for long term durability and strength at the high temperatures in a turbo application, it is generally recommended that schedule 40 or thicker be used. Considering it is going to take a bit of boost to do what you want to do it has me wondering how the thin tubing of a set of mild steel headers will hold up, as well as what effect that long tube from the collector to the turbo will have. Most, if not all, of the turbo headers I have seen have the turbo flange at the end of the collector. Again, I know next to nothing about turbocharging, just thinking out loud. I understand that there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.... I do know that years ago I helped a friend with drag car on a regular basis. His headers were Jet Hot coated, and you could literally grab the headers 30 seconds after the car had made a pass down the strip...might want to consider coating instead of heat wraps and blankets....

I have checked into Jet Hot Coating High Heat HVT Paint etc. I will not be wrapping the exhaust at all.

Mostly from what I have researched is the turbo Flange is what gets really hot. I will be running no more than 15lbs of boost most likely alot less to get to my goal with the engine itself making close to 500hp on its own. So Right around 8-9 lbs of boost should get me there.
The Meth should also help to get the Exhaust Gas Temperatures down some I would think.

I know of several guys running the same type of set up on the exhaust with good success even at 15+ lbs of boost. This is not a daily driver so I think It will be ok until I upgrade like I almost always do.

Good thing about these threads is everyone gets to learn what works and what doesn't without spending any of their own $$$, I would say that is a pretty good thing:-D

Well on the plus side when you come out to the crusie we can use your turbos to cook on!!! Grill!? We don't need no stinking grill! LOL

Looking at your pictures, in particular the one with the exhaust stub in the turbo. I have a favor to ask. Once you get it all done and the exhaust in it, could you video tape the first time you go to pull the plugs? It looks like it will be a major nightmare......but I guess it is a part of the price you pay to haul ass :-D

Looking at your pictures, in particular the one with the exhaust stub in the turbo. I have a favor to ask. Once you get it all done and the exhaust in it, could you video tape the first time you go to pull the plugs? It looks like it will be a major nightmare......but I guess it is a part of the price you pay to haul ass :-D

Come on now Doug, are you picking on me today?? Of course it will be a pain in the ass, it is a MOPAR right?
If need be I will put a V Band flange right before the exhaust turns down at the firewall and just pop that pipe out to do the plugs! I will figure something out.

I starred at this project for at least 15 hours and tried to come up with all the problems that I would be up against before I started it. I know I missed something though!

Keep it coming maybe I didn't already think of something and you guys can figure it out for me!

Kind of like a Gotomeeting or something.

Sorry, just having a bad day. Idea of the second v-band flange so you can pipe out the down pipe would solve it, that is for sure. Would you still have had to notch the frame if you went with oval tubing, similar to http://www.spintechmufflers.com/oval-round-tubing/oval-tubing/cat_41.html ? Might make the drivers side a bit easier, considering the steering box is in the way? Might need to do something funky for the turbo flange....

Damn Louis...you're gonna have skidmarks on the back of your tshirt the first time you mash this thing.

I am still waiting for more information and pics !

Thanks

Wait a minute, 500 HP plus 9 pounds of boost = 800 HP? And nothing bulging through the hood. In a 3000 pound car that hooks, don't you need a special license to go that fast (under 10 seconds, 9 seconds, 8 seconds?). Holly Molly, this car is going to be in a magazine or two. My kid loves turbos, if he sees this thread he might get some dangerous ideas, LOL.

Say, I have the same headers on our 318ci Single Turbo and they work great. Not anymore heat than normal. Build looks awesome. later
Ryan

Sorry, just having a bad day. Idea of the second v-band flange so you can pipe out the down pipe would solve it, that is for sure. Would you still have had to notch the frame if you went with oval tubing, similar to http://www.spintechmufflers.com/oval-round-tubing/oval-tubing/cat_41.html ? Might make the drivers side a bit easier, considering the steering box is in the way? Might need to do something funky for the turbo flange....

No biggy Doug, my day was in the shitter also!

Anyway I got home today and the spark plugs will go in without any other modifications. I need to use an extension with a swivel on the end is all....

I don't need to notch the K Frame for the exhaust. I will be running Dual 3.5" Pipe to an X Pipe to mufflers and dumped at the axle.

Both sides of my down pipes should exit in about the same area. I will however need to move my brake lines how they come off the master cylinder but I was going to run new lines anyway so no big deal.

On a single turbo where the exhaust is 4-5" plus is where you will have problems I believe.

I think you should look into the log header idea, assuming it's what I'm thinking (similar to what old military jeeps had). It would give you room to not have to cut the fenders...maybe.

Worked on the car again today for about 4 Hours.

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More........................

I had to cut the drivers side motor mounting tab to clear the exhaust. Some guys run the Exhaust under the K FRAME when using the block hugger headers. I figure the front end is more than likely going to see some air so I decided to run them on top of the K Frame.

Since I will be making my own Solid Motor mounts I will take care of doing a gusset on the back side somewhere when the mock up motor is back out.

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I will be reworking this area here when the motor is back out. I will move the motor mount up about 1.5-2" when I end up making them and I will also reinforce this area with some type of gussets etc

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More..................and done for the night on the car........

I almost got the other one mounted. I for sure will have it done tomorrow unless something comes up:cheers:


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Say, I have the same headers on our 318ci Single Turbo and they work great. Not anymore heat than normal. Build looks awesome. later
Ryan

Cool Ryan, I seen your build on the 318 Dart Turbo on theturboforums.com ,
that 318 moves some pavement not to mention your Slant 6 car...........DAMN!!

A member here also shot me over some pics of your plumbing that I got some ideas from.

Motor plate?

Motor plate?

No motor plate but I did look into it. If I changed the K to an ALTERK yes I probably would.

I priced them and they are pretty cheap at $120.00 or so.

Damn Louis...you're gonna have skidmarks on the back of your tshirt the first time you mash this thing.

That would be called a shitsplosion right? :munky2:

Probably will, I am hoping anyway!

your build looks great.

sorry to burst on your bubble, but i have a few questions to ask..
i build high h.p awd turbo mitsubishi eclipse's for a living, and have learned quite a bit through the years

are you going to be running these turbo's right from the start, while the engine is breaking in?
do you have any prior turbo knowledge?
have you ever used ebay turbo's before?

the reason i ask about using these turbo as the engine breaks in, is because i believe they are a journal bearing turbo. they have a thrust plate inside them, rather than a more expensive ball bearing style. they tend to not last very long when used on a engine that is fresh. the minute metalic partices in the oil from the rings seating, and the bearings starts to collect on the oil galley on the thrust plate of the turbo, and quickly tears up the brass bearings.
also, the cheap ebay turbo's have horrible factory balancing. with any amount of boost, they tend to break turbine shafts very easy.


the reason i bring this stuff up is because i see all the work you are putting into your setup. and once done, and you start haveing turbo issues and have to switch to another more expensive turbo, you will have horrible amounts of refabbing to do to fit the new ones. doing work 2x's get very frustrating.'
EBAY TURBO'S WILL NOT LAST
i have had customers insist on me putting them on their cars, and have not had a single one last over 3,000 miles.
wastegates are the same way. they are made from cheap materials, and i am sure they will give you gobs of issues with boost creep out the wazoo.
i wish you the best, but when buying a turbo, you get what you pay for.

a good turbo in the size of flow that you are using go for about 1600.00 each. now if you bought 2 for less than 200.00 , then you know there is a reason for that

your build looks great.

sorry to burst on your bubble, but i have a few questions to ask..
i build high h.p awd turbo mitsubishi eclipse's for a living, and have learned quite a bit through the years

are you going to be running these turbo's right from the start, while the engine is breaking in?
do you have any prior turbo knowledge?
have you ever used ebay turbo's before?

the reason i ask about using these turbo as the engine breaks in, is because i believe they are a journal bearing turbo. they have a thrust plate inside them, rather than a more expensive ball bearing style. they tend to not last very long when used on a engine that is fresh. the minute metalic partices in the oil from the rings seating, and the bearings starts to collect on the oil galley on the thrust plate of the turbo, and quickly tears up the brass bearings.
also, the cheap ebay turbo's have horrible factory balancing. with any amount of boost, they tend to break turbine shafts very easy.


the reason i bring this stuff up is because i see all the work you are putting into your setup. and once done, and you start haveing turbo issues and have to switch to another more expensive turbo, you will have horrible amounts of refabbing to do to fit the new ones. doing work 2x's get very frustrating.'
EBAY TURBO'S WILL NOT LAST
i have had customers insist on me putting them on their cars, and have not had a single one last over 3,000 miles.
wastegates are the same way. they are made from cheap materials, and i am sure they will give you gobs of issues with boost creep out the wazoo.
i wish you the best, but when buying a turbo, you get what you pay for.

a good turbo in the size of flow that you are using go for about 1600.00 each. now if you bought 2 for less than 200.00 , then you know there is a reason for that

First off you would be wrong I did not pay less than $200.00 for 2 Turbo's. Those ones are the CHEAPER POS's that you are talking about. I don't believe you are installing these turbo's on your customers cars. They are the less expensive units that even LOOK CHEAP per your comment above. Your comment about EBAY Turbo's is a Broad one putting EVERY one of them in the same box.

Also the wastegates that I am using have the EXACT SAME DIAPHRAM in them as the $600+++ Dollar TIAL gates. The replacement is to use it specifically!
How do I know this? I tore them apart and inspected them AFTER I did all the research. The valve is SOLID STAINLESS STEEL and the guides are also. The SEAL is made from VITON which is the exact same material used in your high dollar Valve Seals when you get your heads done.


Also this BUILD has nothing to do about being SHORT on CASH because I have Plenty of $$ and can build WHATEVER I want! Those on this site who know me know this is a FACT. I could also PAY someone to do all this work but I CHOOSE not to. I enjoy doing it and it is a release for me.

This build is about the AVERAGE GUY that does not have a bunch of $$, he too can build a set up like this without the BIG bucks that it would usually take to do it.

So you are saying you have installed one of these EXACT TURBO's and they failed??? Please start YOUR OWN thread on the subject with Documentation, PICTURES and DATA to back it up! Don't use key strokes to do it!!

Well I have done my research and most have had great success with these turbo's. Of course there are some that have failed but Garret, Precision, Master Power etc and the like have had the same failures but nobody wants to talk about that after spending BIG $$ on them. Even your high dollar wastegates and blow off valves have had issues and if you say any different you would be kidding yourself.

No the engine will be dyno'd without them, the engine in the car is a mock engine. The Turbo's will be torn apart inspected, cleaned and then installed on the car and taken to the Chassis Dyno for tuning.
This is NOT my first Rodeo.

So you are saying that you need to spend BIG BUCKS to make reliable Power?? If that is the case you need to look here............

4 Seasons running in the 8's on JUNK PIECE OF SHIT GT45Yk2004 EBAY TURBO's with NO Problems as of Yet and he NEVER took them apart and even inspected them.

YouTube - Mike's 1967 Ebay Twin Turbo Powered BBC

There are several guys here that use them with Great Success for example a guy running a 327 Chevy no turbo specific camshaft, heads that flow only 240cfm with a blow thru carb knocking down 9.80 quarter mile times consistantly with ONE of these exact turbo's. No problems EVER!!

This thread is dedicated to the Turbo's I am using and there is NOBODY that I have found that has HANDS ON EXPERIENCE with this EXACT TURBO that I am using that the Seals Leaked, came apart or anything else. It is all HEARSAY from NON PLAYERS that like to shoot their mouths off on the internet. The guys that say EBAY turbo's are JUNK are putting every EBAY turbo in the same box which is pretty unfair to say the least.

I can see it now a guy working in his garage all excited about his new toy. Hitting the throttle while his friend is under the hood and the turbo sucks up a RAG. or HEY hand me the timing light, he turns to grab it and BOUNCES a wrench off the Inducer. Well these turbo's are JUNK and the story goes on...................

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=96046.0

There are also ALOT of Diesel guys pushing these EXACT Turbo's to over 55lbs of Boost beating the CRAP out of them and they LIVE!! Do your own research and you will see.

I believe that MOST of the failures WE are talking about are INSTALLER Caused from people that don't have a clue what they are doing and NEVER should be attempting a task like this on their own. Just LOOK at the Pictures of these people set ups and installation jobs and you will know right away they NEVER even should have attempted the task.

Please don't get me wrong I do not claim to be an expert but I have done enough research to Prove my point over that last 2 months on the parts I have chosen to use.

This build is costing NOBODY but myself time and $$$ for everyone else to learn from. If these Turbo's take a crap on me then that's what happens. In the process all who see it will learn from what I am doing. Just so you know I prove doubters wrong on a REGULAR basis and that is what this build is all about. I will post ALL my findings and I will have Documentation, Pictures, DATA and the Experience to Back EVERYTHING up with REAL WORLD findings!! NOT a keyboard and the words of someone else.

Also with the kind of questions you are starting threads about that I just found here............

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=102825

I do not believe you have ALL the experience you say you do! I believe MOST will agree with me and take take your post as a GRAIN OF SALT just as I thought BEFORE I found your thread ........ KEYBOARD ASASSINATION of all ebay turbo's in general with NO REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE!

That is all I gotta say about that. So I am carrying on..................

awsome project, looks wild.its nice to actually open a thread that has "turbo dart" in the title and its actually getting done, not just bs'ing about it. well done!

you are a real asshole. i never said i ran this specific turbo.

do not get so emotional. i asked a few questions, thats all. it must be that time of the month for you.

you are right, i have never used these turbo's, but i still have had first hand knowledge and ussage of a few other ebay ones, and they failed. you get all uptight as if your life is in danger. d***he**

you are a real asshole. i never said i ran this specific turbo.

do not get so emotional. i asked a few questions, thats all. it must be that time of the month for you.

you are right, i have never used these turbo's, but i still have had first hand knowledge and ussage of a few other ebay ones, and they failed. you get all uptight as if your life is in danger. d***he**

You are pissed because you are NOT WHO YOU SAY YOU ARE and you got called out on it!

Making the statements that you did caused me to do research on YOU just like anybody else would have done.

Sorry you feel the way you do that was not my intention. My intention was to get to the FACTS of the matter and that is it.

Many people have said they were going to Kick my ass and found themselves waking up a few minutes later, even BIG ass M****r F*****s! Talk is a bunch of shittt. Don't talk shit, do it is my motto!

Oh by the way no big deal, I have been called alot worse!:-D

i was just stating FACTS on ebay turbo's in general, as i have used a few, and have one sitting in my garage with less than a thousand miles on it, and it has sufered extreme amounts of in/out play besides the side to side. it is a e bay evo III16g.

i do not care if you believe what i say about building these engines/ cars, as i do, and thats all that matters. ooooh, cause i asked about aa 400 h.p 340 that was a 72, and i wanted input to get it more like the 71 h.p ratings, makes me stupid?

i forgot that all you guys on here know it all, and are gods, and your shit is the best..................

please, i did not comment to start a comp war with you, but was just asking questions, then stating my first hand knowledge on it. thats all. thank you and god bless

I think you should look into the log header idea, assuming it's what I'm thinking (similar to what old military jeeps had). It would give you room to not have to cut the fenders...maybe.

Hey Dave,

The only holes in the inner fenders will be the ones you see already cut in. The exhaust will dump on each side of the transmission to an X Pipe to mufflers dumped at the axle. Well I should say that is the plan.

Cool. Can't wait to see it. You still planning on going to Indio next week? My engine should be ready for the dyno sometime next week.

Keep the build coming. One day I would love to build a turbo car.

I ran short a 45* mandrel bend so I couldn't finish the other side. It is close though and I will order the piece I need Monday morning from my local Muffler shop. The guy said he will have the part I need the same day.

Nothing much to report but here are some pics anyway..................


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I also need to order the 3" Aluminum Intake tube, Silicone parts " I am going to try and keep those to a minimum and weld the tubes instead where I can", Clamps. I also need some 2" stainless J Bends to fabricate the wastegates back into the exhaust. I also need to locate a LOW PROFILE carb hat with dual 3" Inlets.

I will order all the parts needed by tomorrow.

good thread with lots of info :) thanks!

http://www.rpmcat.com/images/H19-64280.jpg

Maybe you can find one of these and box in the ends and configure your air inlets as you please?
Just a thought

You can find them made already like this one but I am having a hard time finding one with 3" inlets! I am hoping to find one already done to keep the fab at a minimum. I guess I could use a 4" to 3" adapter if needed?

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Or this one here that is the Low Profile version........ Both have 4" Inlets.

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I also need to order the 3" Aluminum Intake tube, Silicone parts " I am going to try and keep those to a minimum and weld the tubes instead where I can", Clamps. I also need some 2" stainless J Bends to fabricate the wastegates back into the exhaust. I also need to locate a LOW PROFILE carb hat with dual 3" Inlets.

I will order all the parts needed by tomorrow.

I might have some 2" stainless elbows. If you want I can check my storage and let you know tonight.

I might have some 2" stainless elbows. If you want I can check my storage and let you know tonight.

Sure let me know!

Thanks

Sure let me know!

Thanks

I may also have some 3" Aluminum tubing also. What are you looking for?

i was just stating FACTS on ebay turbo's in general, as i have used a few, and have one sitting in my garage with less than a thousand miles on it, and it has sufered extreme amounts of in/out play besides the side to side. it is a e bay evo III16g.

i do not care if you believe what i say about building these engines/ cars, as i do, and thats all that matters. ooooh, cause i asked about aa 400 h.p 340 that was a 72, and i wanted input to get it more like the 71 h.p ratings, makes me stupid?

i forgot that all you guys on here know it all, and are gods, and your shit is the best..................

please, i did not comment to start a comp war with you, but was just asking questions, then stating my first hand knowledge on it. thats all. thank you and god bless

Hey asshole go have a pissing match elsewhere no-one here wants to hear it.

Louis you nailed this guy.Some peoples kids huh?

Damn Louis...I never guessed you would move so fast after our phone coversation !!!

Your progress is outstanding!

I told you about that crazy tight fitment issues you would have with Twins, but man I am really impressed with your work!.....you have done your homework!

I am still planning a single turbo for my setup...and around 650whp....Your Dart is going to have :-D LUDICRIOUS SPEED (Spaceballs (R) excerpt) capability....and I dont have that much need for rediculous power....it is very dangerous...Remember my Friend Wes that was killed by one of the Many Turbo 'Stangs HE built, I mentioned...He is still very missed around the racing circles.

Oh and BTW....Can I be on your Drag Crew?

BUILD ON!!!!!!! 8)

Damn Louis...I never guessed you would move so fast after our phone coversation !!!

Your progress is outstanding!

I told you about that crazy tight fitment issues you would have with Twins, but man I am really impressed with your work!.....you have done your homework!

I am still planning a single turbo for my setup...and around 650whp....Your Dart is going to have :-D LUDICRIOUS SPEED (Spaceballs (R) excerpt) capability....and I dont have that much need for rediculous power....it is very dangerous...Remember my Friend Wes that was killed by one of the Many Turbo 'Stangs HE built, I mentioned...He is still very missed around the racing circles.

Oh and BTW....Can I be on your Drag Crew?

BUILD ON!!!!!!! 8)

Yeah I am going crazy. haaaaaaa

To tell you the truth I probably only have about 8 Hours so far into the mock up which is not that bad.

It is pretty tight fit but it hopefully will work out fine. I have a spot for all the parts that are going to be used. It took alot of research and starring at the car for lots of hours to come up with the plan.

Yes I remember you telling about your Friend Wes and the tragic accident that he had. I have never been one to hold the throttle down for long periods of time. Light to Light, 1/4 mile blasts is what I like to do. The car will have all the safety equipment to make it as safe as possible, cage, good brakes and 5 point harnesses in both front seats.

Thanks for the High Five! I will continue on and keep this tread posted with all the updates.

I dig the turbos but those deep dish dog dishes give me wood!

Here is the 8.87ish pass at over 158MPH, that I was referring to earlier.

Same car in the earlier video 67 Nova TT GT45Y2004K Ebay set up!

NOTICE The Front End "NEVER" left the ground..............Caltracs and Mono Leafs only...Seems like he has the BOOST very well under control!!
I believe there is MORE in it myself!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npwI7gJRTNw&feature=player_embedded

Cool Ryan, I seen your build on the 318 Dart Turbo on theturboforums.com ,
that 318 moves some pavement not to mention your Slant 6 car...........DAMN!!

A member here also shot me over some pics of your plumbing that I got some ideas from.

Hope the build helped. I'm enjoying your build, realizing I could have gone with twins as easy as a single. Maybe I'll put twins on the Slant one day. Keep up the good work. Later
Ryan

I had to order the 45* 2.5" Mandrel today and hopefully it will be here tomorrow.

The heat exchanger, 10" fans, 3.5" Mandrel Bends and pipe came today so I goofed around with it for about an hour.

I got 1 side of the exhaust to the bottom of the car today.....

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wow nice build....i always wanted to add boost to one of my cars. one day... ill prob go procharger set up.

but yea nice job so far... little by little. gonna have a lot going on under the hood. might i ask where the flux capacitor is. haha

you building this reminds me of the v8 vega i built.. use every bit of space you can good luck

I admire your vision Louis. Plenty of room to work in these Abodies.

wow, you are crazy LOL.

you got some big balls to take on such a project.

but man is it going to be neat!.

I like the sound of turbos, but I love the sound of turbo v8's!!!

Man this is a Sweet project! I really enjoy all the pics you are posting.

Looks like you are living up to your screen name; Mad Dart.

Looks like the pass side wants to go straight thru the heater motor.Why not run it into the interior and heat the car too,lol!

Looking great!!

Looks like the pass side wants to go straight thru the heater motor.Why not run it into the interior and heat the car too,lol!
Not everybody lives in the frozen tundra of Canada :toothy10::toothy10:

No I bought these here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4695/

I will be making my own SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS though! I raised the engine about a 1/4". When doing this swap from a 6 to an 8 the motor mount on the passenger side is ALOT thicker than the Solid Motor mounts you can buy. Sooooooo the solution to that problem is to make my own!

Cool, thanks for the link. This is some really outstanding work that you are doing here. I can't get enough of this stuff! Keep it coming. L8r

Jim

Not everybody lives in the frozen tundra of Canada :toothy10::toothy10:


Ha! Well Im just gonna hide in my igloo ya big bully....:-D

Looks like the pass side wants to go straight thru the heater motor.Why not run it into the interior and heat the car too,lol!

That's funny!:-D

My 70 Dart gets warm enough inside with TTI Headers on it. I never use the blower motor.

That's funny!:-D

My 70 Dart gets warm enough inside with TTI Headers on it. I never use the blower motor.

Heater/Blower??? Plenty of hot air coming from the drivers seat area. :-D

Looks good Louis!

Heater/Blower??? Plenty of hot air coming from the drivers seat area. :-D

Looks good Louis!

Thanks Rob!

Worked on the car for about 2 hours today.

I got the other turbo tacked and the exhaust ran to the bottom of the car!

I took alot of pictures..............

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More pictures...............

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Man, you sure are moving on this project. I guess if I had a man-cave like yours, I'd spend a lot more time in it. You better put a good seat in it so you don't snap your neck.

The last of today's work.......................

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that lower column bearing, the one they don't make anymore, is gonna be toast.

check into an after market column, I know theres a couple that make nice billlet [or billet looking] columns for that car.

lookin good brougham!

that lower column bearing, the one they don't make anymore, is gonna be toast.

check into an after market column, I know theres a couple that make nice billlet [or billet looking] columns for that car.

lookin good brougham!

I am doing ok for a Half Breed I think!!!


Well I was thinking the same thing. Since that last piece is only tacked in I thought about re routing it more toward the firewall. I need to rework the area is all. I will build a shield around it after I move it and if that doesn't work I will just cut if off and weld in a UJOINT section right there.....haaaaaaaaa:-D:-D

Man you are doing some awsome work! If I could make one suggestion though. I would ad a v-band just past the elbow on your down pipes so you will be able to remove them easily to change your sparkplugs.

some kind of zerted roller bearing would be nice.

awsome build, want front row seat when you go to change plugs, probably wont be much fun.....great looking work.....awsome...first class

question, and please dont bite my head off, why didnt you go to the rear of the car with the turbos....considering how tight these little cars are in the front....

we are mounting ours behind the rear axle but we dont have the stock location fuel cell, our intercoolers will be inside the trunk area.....we are using vgt's from late model Dodge Rams with 6.7L....rebuilt and modified

Luke aka Dodge29

by the way have a new lower column bearing/bushing, that im not using, came with my alterktion kit, yours if you need it, will only sit in my toolbox, we are using a stock car style column

Luke

by the way have a new lower column bearing/bushing, that im not using, came with my alterktion kit, yours if you need it, will only sit in my toolbox, we are using a stock car style column

Luke

67 has it's own, diff than 68 and up.

mine is for a 65 Dart....if anybody needs, its there.....will never be use....rather give to someone who needs it then have it sit in my box....
thanks

Dodge29

Mr2.4:Man you are doing some awsome work! If I could make one suggestion though. I would ad a v-band just past the elbow on your down pipes so you will be able to remove them easily to change your sparkplugs.

Dodge29:awsome build, want front row seat when you go to change plugs, probably wont be much fun.....great looking work.....awsome...first class


I already addressed the plug issue guys. The pictures are deceiving, an 8" extension and a swivel takes care of the plugs easily!

Addressed Here: in POST 39

Mad Dart: Anyway I got home today and the spark plugs will go in without any other modifications. I need to use an extension with a swivel on the end is all....

Hey Mad Dart, I was kinda trolling through your topic as I want to do the same thing you did here to my 68. Anyways I was thinking why not run a driveshaft run alternator? depending on what you intend doing with your car this might be a good option to deal with the clearence issues with your turbo setups.

I plan on basically what you've done here but I want to put an irs system in the rear and do a kind of road race chassis.

bad ass is all i can say

HOLY SH!T!!! Mad Dart, You crazy SOB!!! Nice work, I am JEALOUS!!! Awesome fab skills!!! Might have to come over one day to check it out!!!

I love the idea of running the shorty headers, and re-routing the exhaust under the motor mount and back up to the hot side of the turbo.

This is very ingenius, and solves several situations where people have to make compromises, plus you get the flow of a tubular headers over a log.

Impressive.

Next I will be cutting in the Wastegate Piping and routing the exhaust out from the gates to the exhaust side out of the turbo's.

After that my next task is mounting the Air/Water Intercoolers in each fender well and the heat exchanger up in front of the radiator. It has 2 10" Fans and I will set them to push air thru the heat exchanger which will go thru the radiator also. The 16" Electric Radiator fan will PULL the air which should work very well. With this set up I am not too worried about the normal issues of an upfront mounted Air to Air intercooler has. Whatever Warm air that is left after the Air/Water system should be taken out with the METH Injection system.

The intercooler piping also showed up today! I ordered BLACK Couplers so I will be ditching the blue. My scheme is Black AN fittings, stainless lines and black couplers.

With the fans set up where you see them in the picture below works perfect. I do not need to modify the core support or any brackets. The Hood lock bracing fits right in between the fans Like it has been waiting for it! I checked it out today.

The heat exchanger is only 1" Thick!

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I messed with the car for about 30 minutes today........no time left to do anything else.

I reworked the drivers side turbo exhaust out to the bottom of the car. I got it as far away from the steering column bushing as I could possibly get it and that is where it will stay.

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Wow! Looks good so far. What about cooking the brake fluid. Where and what kit did you order. From ebay?? I have a post here about the twin turbo 383. My engine bay will have much less room for the twins. Mocked up an old rajay determining room issues. Looking at a single large Precision turbo listed in my thread.

Wow! Looks good so far. What about cooking the brake fluid. Where and what kit did you order. From ebay?? I have a post here about the twin turbo 383. My engine bay will have much less room for the twins. Mocked up an old rajay determining room issues. Looking at a single large Precision turbo listed in my thread.

All the parts I used are in the beginning of this thread.

I didn't order a kit, I made my own by looking at what other people have done and mixing it up a bit.
I will be using a heat shield on the master cylinder. The brake lines will go thru the firewall and exit the bottom of the car thru the cabin and routed from there. On a turbo application alot of things need to be changed around, re routed and heat protected for sure! Wiring needs to be moved around also and protected.

You can see here how the brake lines are ran thru the firewall and the wiring is all cleaned up. When I get done with mine it will look somewhat like this one with heat shields etc.

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There is an individual on the turbo forums that has a 1400 or so hp single turbo big block. A link to some pictures of his car....http://www.telusplanet.net/public/mblasco/Car/

Thats a badass Dart right there Louis!

Yes I seen that Dart. There is a Video floating around that shows it launching.........it is Cartoon quick, I laughed my azzz off the first time I seen it!

Yes I seen that Dart. There is a Video floating around that shows it launching.........it is Cartoon quick, I laughed my azzz off the first time I seen it!Is this the video?
YouTube - Matts turbo dart

Is this the video?
YouTube - Matts turbo dart (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRBC7cZ-JiU&feature=player_embedded)

That's it!

There is an individual on the turbo forums that has a 1400 or so hp single turbo big block. A link to some pictures of his car....http://www.telusplanet.net/public/mblasco/Car/

WOW! Grenaded that expensive shortblock!! Big azz turbo too!!

WOW! Grenaded that expensive shortblock!! Big azz turbo too!!

He has a NEW MOTOR already running! It is the one with 1400hp!

Whose yellow car with the clean engine bays and cool flames?

Whose yellow car with the clean engine bays and cool flames?

He is a member of theturboforums.com , his name is Tim.

His car is amazingly clean for dang sure!

definitely clean. Even the brake lines are hidden inside. I'd like to see the whole car. I like yellow and orange cars for some reason.

definitely clean. Even the brake lines are hidden inside. I'd like to see the whole car. I like yellow and orange cars for some reason.

You could eat off any part of it!

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=120439.0

Those are some badass rides for sure! :D

Whose yellow car with the clean engine bays and cool flames?
He is on Big Block Dart, and I believe he is friends with 68HemiGts, might want to contact him for pictures....the motor that was in the yellow Dart has passed away, I believe a rod broke and tore a hole in the side of the block.....

Louis I used a Flaming River pn FR1505M to convert from power to manual steering box and solve my column/header interference issue on my 65 Cuda. I think its long enough to allow you to shorten the outer shell of the column and move the bearing/seal against the firewall. From the pics that area is gonna get pretty warm. Just an idea.

Louis I used a Flaming River pn FR1505M to convert from power to manual steering box and solve my column/header interference issue on my 65 Cuda. I think its long enough to allow you to shorten the outer shell of the column and move the bearing/seal against the firewall. From the pics that area is gonna get pretty warm. Just an idea.

Thanks for the info.

When I tear it down before paint I will look at the area again. I am pretty sure the shields posted above on Tim's yellow Dart will fix the issue if any exists.

I worked on the car for about 4 hours this morning.

I re routed the passenger side down pipe. I couldnt get a VBand Flange on it. I can now!

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Here I am locating the Turbo Oil Drain back to the Pan

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I took the hood latch assembly out to mount the Heat Exchanger.

I need some hardware and some round stock to complete this task but I know exactly what I am going to do~

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I made some brackets and mounted the Air/Water Intercoolers. They should disappear when the tires are on and the car is on the ground at ride height.

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More..............................

The last of what I got done today!

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You impress me with this build.

right on brother.

I love the sleeper look. This car will send quite a few guys home with their tails between their legs.

Member "64physhy" was kind enough to drop my RHS Heads off at IMM Engines Yesterday along with my Block and Rods. I bought the Heads from Brian for my other stroker motor and never put them to use. This one is getting a SOLID ROLLER in it so I am getting the Heads upgraded for its intended use. The machine work for this TT Stroker Motor will be on it's way this week! Hopefully Completed in the next 3 to 4 weeks Dyno'd and DONE!

Dude your just flying on this build! And the car will literally fly when it's done,lol!!

Now that you've just about plumbed it all did you ever consider mounting the turbo's underneath and just after the collectors? Prolly not a ton of room there I know..

Louis I see your using Brian at Indio Motor Machine (IMM) for your engine work. He's a stand up guy and puts out quality products thus earning my recommendation if any one is looking for help with their motor. He rebuilt the Edelbrock heads for my Duster project a couple years ago and also built a 408 nitrous motor for my best friends Duster. Went 10.06 yesterday without the spray (working out suspension changes before we get to "play with the spray"). 9s are oh so close!

Louis I see your using Brian at Indio Motor Machine (IMM) for your engine work. He's a stand up guy and puts out quality products thus earning my recommendation if any one is looking for help with their motor. He rebuilt the Edelbrock heads for my Duster project a couple years ago and also built a 408 nitrous motor for my best friends Duster. Went 10.06 yesterday without the spray (working out suspension changes before we get to "play with the spray"). 9s are oh so close!

I recommend Brian to everyone I know. He is a NO BULL type of guy and a straight shooter. I have bought multiple sets of heads, parts, and have had Machine work done for my projects and friends. He has Dyno'd my 410 Stroker also that is in my 70 4spd Dart. Always top notch work and fair prices to boot!!

Your friends Duster Hauls azzzzzz! Should be easily in the 9's with some SMACK!

Yeah Brian knows his shitzzz with a Mopar motor. He is really starting to get the exposure with his recent motor builds in the Mopar Mags. Hope success doesn't ruin him. Glad I got the chance to get some work (and a T shirt!) from him back when he was "unkown" We are itching to hit the nitrous but put caltracs in it last year and went with a Bob's Perf. Fab coil over kit in the front end this spring. Lots of tuning left to be done before the WARP DRIVE is engaged.

Sure you mentioned it already.....but please tell me that you are not going to be another one of the turbo street cars with out air filters? I always laugh when I see "street" cars with no air filters, or for that matter running race gas on the street. Hardly call a car that you can only go 30-40 miles from home without turning around and getting home before you run out of fuel a street car. I do not know where anybody else lives, but the 3 places I have lived in do not pump race gas at the local gas station....

Sure you mentioned it already.....but please tell me that you are not going to be another one of the turbo street cars with out air filters? I always laugh when I see "street" cars with no air filters, or for that matter running race gas on the street. Hardly call a car that you can only go 30-40 miles from home without turning around and getting home before you run out of fuel a street car. I do not know where anybody else lives, but the 3 places I have lived in do not pump race gas at the local gas station....

I actually ordered 2 different filters last week. I like to keep them clean so I can just swap them out. I would never run without a filter. If you suck something into the intake your turbo's could be toast!

This build will be a PUMP GAS engine with 9:1 Compression, Air to Water Coolers, Closed Loop Ice Box in the trunk and a Multiple Nozzle AIS Stage 2 Meth Injection System.

I will also be converting my stock gas tank into a Fuel Cell with a Sump. I am just not there yet is all.

vary nice work, is this jarods old 67 gt? i wanted to buy that car, but u beat me to the punch(hahaha) looks amazing! cheers

Sure you mentioned it already.....but please tell me that you are not going to be another one of the turbo street cars with out air filters? I always laugh when I see "street" cars with no air filters, or for that matter running race gas on the street. Hardly call a car that you can only go 30-40 miles from home without turning around and getting home before you run out of fuel a street car. I do not know where anybody else lives, but the 3 places I have lived in do not pump race gas at the local gas station....

I am with you Doug, however the fellow who got me started in all this turbo stuff ran a TT Barracuda that ran high 9s and it was his daily driver for 3 years. Granted I think his daily commute was 8 or 9 miles one way but he never had a filter on it. He did put some screen (as in a house window screen) hose clamped on the inlet. He never did have one problem with it. I too ran my dart with no filters with no problems although my car only did 7-11 runs as a street car. If you can fit one run it. I am not sure if I will be able to fit one on my car so I may be one of "those" guys. One thing to remember is that the turbo is moving so much air when it is making boost that its easy to choke it with a filter. Just some food for thought. Another thought while I am posting is the exhaust. Now I have been told and have always run a exhaust pipe diameter that is 1.5 times the outlet size of the turbo. Some say its necessary and it can limit boost and make the turbo work harder if you run too restrictive of an exhaust. I have never run small exhaust so I cant endorse that comment, but I thought I would mention it in case you have trouble with late spool times and possibly not making your target boost number. That is all, now back to Maddart making me look bad by how fast he is doing this!!!

PS These turbo cars are very efficient and get ridiculously good fuel mileage. I know that 20mpg is easily attained if you can keep your foot out of it. My car has a 20 gallon fuel cell so some quickmath gives me a 400 mile range. I think that qualifies as a street car. Another thing I used to do is limit my boost to 5 pounds on the street and run 91 octane in it and it ran perfect and still would run mid tens like that!! I think both you and Louis will be laughing at the end of your builds when you see how mellow and real world these cars can be. Just look at the Grand National guys!

i can say for the grand national guys, my buddy has one... car is very very quick.. bigger turbo, fuel upgrade etc etc. But can turn the key idles and drives like a normal car and decent mileage when just driving normal. put it to the floor and let the boost push you in the seat.

i only met this kid once at his job.. hung out.. i went to see them the next night and threw me the keys to the grand national and said have fun. looks like a show car

I think I've actually caught myself drooling, reading this. I can't believe I might be able to offer an idea for you with regards to the steering column. I have a 1984 Diplomat unit in my '74 Duster and my '68 Dart will be getting the same.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4779/1901/24445950066_large.jpg
Page 8 of my build shows basic details. I shortened the Dippy coupler a little to make things work, but it looks pretty much factory. My car is power steering FYI

1.5 times the outlet size of the turbo. [/U]Some say its necessary and it can limit boost and make the turbo work harder if you run too restrictive of an exhaust. I have never run small exhaust so I cant endorse that comment, but I thought I would mention it in case you have trouble with late spool times and possibly not making your target boost number.

Chris can you explain what you mean. Are you talking about the Inlet size off the header from the Head? Or the actual Exhaust out of the turbo. Mine is 3.25" exhaust out of the turbo. I am running a 3.5" Exhaust all the way out on both turbo's. If I am understanding this correctly than than by those calculations I would need Dual 5.25" Exhaust and there is absolutely no way those would fit where I am running it out now.............Dang that is HUGE!!

From the bottom of the car I could step it up to 5" if need be!

Might as well bolt on some drainage culverts if that's the case.

Chris can you explain what you mean. Are you talking about the Inlet size off the header from the Head? Or the actual Exhaust out of the turbo. Mine is 3.25" exhaust out of the turbo. I am running a 3.5" Exhaust all the way out on both turbo's. If I am understanding this correctly than than by those calculations I would need Dual 5.25" Exhaust and there is absolutely no way those would fit where I am running it out now.............Dang that is HUGE!!

From the bottom of the car I could step it up to 5" if need be!

Sorry Louis, sometimes I get to rambling. I am talking about the actual orifice (thats right I said orifice!) opening out of the exhaust housing of the turbo that makes up the exhaust system. Like my T60s are 2 3/4 and I am using 4 inch tubing. And actually its a little small and should be 4 1/8. Anyways its just theory and I am interested in seeing how it acts on your car. You obviously are running into room problems so it is what it is. If you look at a factory diesel truck it even follows this rule. I thought I would just throw it out there for you to ponder.

Sorry Louis, sometimes I get to rambling. I am talking about the actual orifice (thats right I said orifice!) opening out of the exhaust housing of the turbo that makes up the exhaust system. Like my T60s are 2 3/4 and I am using 4 inch tubing. And actually its a little small and should be 4 1/8. Anyways its just theory and I am interested in seeing how it acts on your car. You obviously are running into room problems so it is what it is. If you look at a factory diesel truck it even follows this rule. I thought I would just throw it out there for you to ponder.

Yes I am running into problems that is why I am using the 3.5" Down Pipe's.
I understand about the diesel trucks I have had a few and have a Diesel Excursion right now.

I will be stepping it up then for sure and will need to resource some parts to try and make it a 5" exhaust with and X Pipe to mufflers dumped at the axle..................we will see.

I have a few other ideas about running the exhaust just behind the Front Tires on both sides without even using any mufflers at all. So it would be a very short route to the atmosphere like that! Less back pressure for sure.

Yes I am running into problems that is why I am using the 3.5" Down Pipe's.
I understand about the diesel trucks I have had a few and have a Diesel Excursion right now.

I will be stepping it up then for sure and will need to resource some parts to try and make it a 5" exhaust with and X Pipe to mufflers dumped at the axle..................we will see.

I have a few other ideas about running the exhaust just behind the Front Tires on both sides without even using any mufflers at all. So it would be a very short route to the atmosphere like that! Less back pressure for sure.

Maybe you can run your current set up for the street and have cut outs for the track.

I am with you Doug, however the fellow who got me started in all this turbo stuff ran a TT Barracuda that ran high 9s and it was his daily driver for 3 years. Granted I think his daily commute was 8 or 9 miles one way but he never had a filter on it. He did put some screen (as in a house window screen) hose clamped on the inlet. He never did have one problem with it. I too ran my dart with no filters with no problems although my car only did 7-11 runs as a street car. If you can fit one run it. I am not sure if I will be able to fit one on my car so I may be one of "those" guys. One thing to remember is that the turbo is moving so much air when it is making boost that its easy to choke it with a filter. Just some food for thought. Another thought while I am posting is the exhaust. Now I have been told and have always run a exhaust pipe diameter that is 1.5 times the outlet size of the turbo. Some say its necessary and it can limit boost and make the turbo work harder if you run too restrictive of an exhaust. I have never run small exhaust so I cant endorse that comment, but I thought I would mention it in case you have trouble with late spool times and possibly not making your target boost number. That is all, now back to Maddart making me look bad by how fast he is doing this!!!

PS These turbo cars are very efficient and get ridiculously good fuel mileage. I know that 20mpg is easily attained if you can keep your foot out of it. My car has a 20 gallon fuel cell so some quickmath gives me a 400 mile range. I think that qualifies as a street car. Another thing I used to do is limit my boost to 5 pounds on the street and run 91 octane in it and it ran perfect and still would run mid tens like that!! I think both you and Louis will be laughing at the end of your builds when you see how mellow and real world these cars can be. Just look at the Grand National guys!
I know there are plenty of people that "drive" there street cars with no filtration. But I hardly call a 5 mile drive going anywhere. 5 miles will not even get me to the nearest major (if you want to call it that) intersection, my trips start with 1.6 miles of a silty, very dusty dirt road. I have always laughed when people tell me there car is street driven and it has 14:1 compression, a spool with 5.17 gears, dual dominators and a VW Sirocco radiator. People throw "street driven" around way to much. Cruising to the local burger joint 3 miles away, while it is a public street, is hardly a drive. A 400 mile range, in itself at least to me, does not qualify it as a street car. At least not in my circumstances. Last time I washed my truck I crept up the dirt road, keeping my speed at 2-3 mph on my gps, and by the time I got to the pavement I had a layer of silt on my truck. There is no way in hell I would drive a car up here without an air filter....

vary nice work, is this jarods old 67 gt? i wanted to buy that car, but u beat me to the punch(hahaha) looks amazing! cheers

Yes it's Jared's old car! I bought it with the 6 that had a hole in the block as big as a cantelope!

Maybe you can run your current set up for the street and have cut outs for the track.

I have seen flattened 5" on a couple of Prostreet cars. Something like the side pipes on a Nascar that come out the side. Should flow the same in my opinion. Just more of an oval shape. Just my 2 cents

Like this, http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/the-654/4%22-Oval-Straight-Tubing/Detail

We are in a smelter town here. Tons of truck traffic and crap on the roads. No way would I drive anything without an air filter around here!

Yes it's Jared's old car! I bought it with the 6 that had a hole in the block as big as a cantelope!

hahaha, awesome work< i would love to see it sometime when your finished. if you look closely in my profile pic thats your dart behind my van, outside justin's house in vista.

Well I got the Heat Exchanger Roughed in and Mocked up along with the Radiator. Took about 1 Hour.

That is it for today...........

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More................... I had to clearance the core support for the Heat Exchanger radiator Cap.

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I know there are plenty of people that "drive" there street cars with no filtration. But I hardly call a 5 mile drive going anywhere. 5 miles will not even get me to the nearest major (if you want to call it that) intersection, my trips start with 1.6 miles of a silty, very dusty dirt road. I have always laughed when people tell me there car is street driven and it has 14:1 compression, a spool with 5.17 gears, dual dominators and a VW Sirocco radiator. People throw "street driven" around way to much. Cruising to the local burger joint 3 miles away, while it is a public street, is hardly a drive. A 400 mile range, in itself at least to me, does not qualify it as a street car. At least not in my circumstances. Last time I washed my truck I crept up the dirt road, keeping my speed at 2-3 mph on my gps, and by the time I got to the pavement I had a layer of silt on my truck. There is no way in hell I would drive a car up here without an air filter....

I hear ya Doug. I wouldn't drive down a dirt road without a filter either. I live in a pavement empire where we dont even know what a dirt road is. People have different definitions of a street car, mine just happens to be very lenient. I happen to love driving very radical street cars. My peeves are a car that wont start and over heaters. Thats about my criteria! Oh well thats what makes the world go round.

Like this, http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/the-654/4%22-Oval-Straight-Tubing/Detail

That tubing is pretty killer, but it is really expensive, especially when you start buying bends. We did put a short sytem on a twin turbo vega and had restriction issues. I think its because its not available in 5 or 6 inch, which would probably be what you would need.

Played cars for about an hour today. I made up the oil feed and drain lines.

I got some filters today so I tried them out also.

I will start on the Waste gates tomorrow which need to be cut in. Waiting for parts is a PITA, cant start the intake tract until my Silicone parts get here and the Carb Hat that I ordered.

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That tubing is pretty killer, but it is really expensive, especially when you start buying bends. We did put a short sytem on a twin turbo vega and had restriction issues. I think its because its not available in 5 or 6 inch, which would probably be what you would need.

I need to get exhaust past the Trans Pan I can only sneak 3.5" Pipe barely past it then I can step up to 5 or 6" Exhaust. I don't think that Ground clearance will be an issue being that it would only be 1 to 1.5" Lower than a 3" System would be.

I also like the idea of going to 5" right at the bottom of the car and have the exhaust exit right behind both front tires. I really like that look and I can get Stoned off exhaust fumes on a regular basis!! haaaaaaa:-D

I'm jealous.

Louis,

Check here for the steering column coupler. Likely much less expensive than flaming river.

http://www.borgeson.com/

Hi Louis,

the champion radiator looks like it´s what i want for my car. Can you supply their part number? It fit´s between the frame rails?

btw: nice work! This will be a real MAD DART!!!

Thanks!

Michael

Hi Louis,

the champion radiator looks like it´s what i want for my car. Can you supply their part number? It fit´s between the frame rails?

btw: nice work! This will be a real MAD DART!!!

Thanks!

Michael

Yes it fits in the stock location and mounting holes. I only needed to drill 1 hole in the radiator bracket on the passenger lower side.

This radiator has 3-1 inch Cores.
I also needed to order it reversed so the upper hose was on the drivers side and the lower on the passenger. You need to specify that or it will be sent out wrong. The Electric Fan you see will not work cause it hits the water pump pully. 2 10" fans mounted staggered would work or you could just use your stock shroud and fan etc.

Again, get ahold of them and tell them to reverse the inlet and outlet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Dart-1967-1975-Aluminum-2-Row-Champion-Radiator-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1967Q7cModelQ3aDart QQhashZitem45f5cded8bQQitemZ300476657035QQptZMotor sQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I worked on the car for about 30 minutes today.

I am meeting my Racecar builder buddy tonight. He is bringing his bender over to possibly do the front part of the cage on Saturday!!! yeeehaaaaaaaa:-D

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I ran into a bust in the build. Need to change out the straight AN Fittings at the Turbo to 45* to keep the lines away from the Waste Gate pipe that will be cut in.

It is pretty tight in there so I am possibly going to dump the waste straight to atmosphere out of the gates............we will see! The other way I was going to do it was to tap back into the exhaust on the turbo exhaust out......I am hoping I can still do that.

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wow..... iim speechless but in a good way haha

Ha I saw a friend in the Safeway lot today and he waved me over,really excited about something. So I pullled in beside the car and heres a friend of my friend apparently finishing up a turbo install on a V6 Dynasty,lol! Single turbo and a stock motor. Sounds like maybe 400h.p to me but he figures 500. Maybe if the turbo is cranked to 30 psi...

louis, thanks for the information! will get one, too.

Michael

It is pretty tight in there so I am possibly going to dump the waste straight to atmosphere out of the gates............we will see! The other way I was going to do it was to tap back into the exhaust on the turbo exhaust out......I am hoping I can still do that.


Why not run the waste gate tubing under the K member, and join it into the downpipes by the transmission?

It would take a little more tubing, but you would avoid the noise of them dumping to atmosphere, and keep a little more of your stealth factor?

Why not run the waste gate tubing under the K member, and join it into the downpipes by the transmission?

It would take a little more tubing, but you would avoid the noise of them dumping to atmosphere, and keep a little more of your stealth factor?


I thought about that but this car will likely see some AIR TIME leaving the line at 5k on a Transbrake. Also with how low it will sit they may get destroyed quickly! That is why I kept the exhaust off the header flange above the K Frame that feeds the turbo's. It would have been alot easier to put them below............ still in the mock up phase, I will come up with something.

WOW....Awesome work...You really do have mad skills man...Keep it up... Maybe ya should have went with an alterkation? Just for more, wow factor! lol.

WOW....Awesome work...You really do have mad skills man...Keep it up... Maybe ya should have went with an alterkation? Just for more, wow factor! lol.

Yeah it sure is a very nice piece they make but the price is like GOLD, they want too much for them.......I would probably build my own when it comes time for about $1000.00 or so.

Yeah it sure is a very nice piece they make but the price is like GOLD, they want too much for them.......I would probably build my own when it comes time for about $1000.00 or so.


This is true of most of RMS's products. They are quite pricey and I've never seen Bill put it on sale either.

Where on earth do you find all the time to work on this car! im loving seeing all these updates frequently though.

I thought about that but this car will likely see some AIR TIME leaving the line at 5k on a Transbrake. Also with how low it will sit they may get destroyed quickly! That is why I kept the exhaust off the header flange above the K Frame that feeds the turbo's. It would have been alot easier to put it below............ still in the mock up phase, I will come up with something.

Just a note about venting the wastegate to atmosphere. Its F-ING loud under boost! Ever hear a small block with open manifolds? Thats what it sounds like!

Just a note about venting the wastegate to atmosphere. Its F-ING loud under boost! Ever hear a small block with open manifolds? Thats what it sounds like!

I can't hear you what did you say? Haaa:toothy10:

No for real though, I will find a way to tap them into the exhaust!

I SAID----Just a note about venting the wastegate to atmosphere. Its F-ING loud under boost! Ever hear a small block with open manifolds? Thats what it sounds like!

Haha I am the deafest mofo on this board from this kinda crap!

Where on earth do you find all the time to work on this car! im loving seeing all these updates frequently though.

Louis is just as mad as his Dart,lol!! Waaaaaaaayyy too much energy!

I wish you were up here. I need help with my Dart,lol. And I like the way you do things,pretty well the same as me.

Haha I am the deafest mofo on this board from this kinda crap!I'm the deafest 17 yo. on the forum, thanks to band and career.

Just out of curiousity, did you use restrictor fittings on the turbos' oil feed lines? I heard they are supposed to have them.

Just out of curiousity, did you use restrictor fittings on the turbos' oil feed lines? I heard they are supposed to have them.


Yes I did. I am using .080 restrictors but I may drill them out to .120 or so.

They are by the distributor in one of the pictures coming off the oil feed.

Here they are, the two shiny thing a magiggers............

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Well I worked on the car all flipping day long and got my azzzz kicked today. I seem to get more done in 2 hour blasts.

I have been keeping track of my hours and right now I have 26 Hours Total on the Mock up...............alot more than that starring at it and buying/ordering parts, running to Ace Hardware, Home Depot etc.

Wastegates are cut in. Everything is clearanced and will fit, I made sure of it today!!!


This is what I have left to do.........

1) I have the wastegates exhaust out to cut into the Turbo exhaust out
2) Plumb the intake tract and cut in the Blow Off valves
3) Make up the exhaust on the bottom of the car.
4) Make some Triangulated type of bracing off the heads on each side to support the Turbo's at the flanges!

I should hopefully have this list completely done by Friday, we will see.

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You can see here I screwed up and had to cut it all apart and move the wastegate in about 3".
The Intake tract would not work like I had it.............this is where I started to get my azzzz kicked!!!

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More from today.

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More............

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the last for today's work.....................

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You can see here where I will need to use 2 10" electric fans set as 1 on top drivers side and the other on the bottom passenger.
I could use a flex fan and shroud if I ran the intake tract a little bit different.

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This build is awesome. Thanks for updating it regularly. My son is going to be doing a similar build, once he sorts out his megasquirt setup. Good luck!

Damn Louis! You sure have a breakneck build pace. And some mad skills too! I take it you can weld stainless.

I think the engine compartment is looking pretty full. I also think your 800 h.p target will be easily achieved!

Im really enjoying all the pics etc. Havent seen such a detailed build post since slantscamp did his wagon.

Thanks for sharing!

Nice!!! But Now you need to leave it looking like this! PERFECT sleeper!!!

I got the new 45* 10an hose fittings so I put those on today and clearanced for the Wastegates by clocking the Turbo's about 8* or so. I have about 1.5" of clearance to the fitting. I also cut the stainless hoses to match, I am weird like that. They need look just like each other or I will not sleep at night.........haaaaaaaa:toothy10:

Ohhhh and incase you guys didn't notice the Passenger side 4an 90* fitting at the Turbo oil feed has been replaced. I broke the first fitting trying to line it up. Those smaller fittings are very fragile!!! So be careful when playing with them. $12.00 learning experience!!:angry7:

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This build is awesome. Thanks for updating it regularly. My son is going to be doing a similar build, once he sorts out his megasquirt setup. Good luck!

Cool, I can't wait to see what you guys end up doing!

needsaresto; Damn Louis! You sure have a breakneck build pace. And some mad skills too! I take it you can weld stainless.

I think the engine compartment is looking pretty full. I also think your 800 h.p target will be easily achieved!

Im really enjoying all the pics etc. Havent seen such a detailed build post since slantscamp did his wagon.

Thanks for sharing!

Yes the engine bay is getting full. I figure the RICER guys shove all that stuff under their hoods, why not a MOPAR, right??

I actually have never welded stainless with a Tig before! I usually just Mig Weld it. I will be taking this all apart as it is just Tacked together over to Wade, Member 3408BBL. Wade does some of the best welding I have ever seen, this is no BS. Aluminum, Stainless or whatever it does not matter he can weld anything just like MICKEY will eat anything!! haaaaaaaaaa Crackedback and a few other members have seen his work. "VERY, VERY" nice welding and fabrication skills to say the least!!


bjkadron; Nice!!! But Now you need to leave it looking like this! PERFECT sleeper!!!

I thought about that just yesterday. But after all this work and the rest of the cage going in hopefully next Saturday, I really need to paint the car and detail it out. I will keep the body 67 Stock with the stainless trim and everything so it will look like a late 60's early 70's Street car except for the 4 link and TT Motor of course!

I worked on the intercooler piping last night. I had to re position the passenger side intercooler and drop it down about 3" or so, cut the bracket I made apart and re weld it together. The Drivers side will go alot smoother I know that for sure!

I will post pictures when it is all done. Was busting my azzz last night for 2 hours and didn't take any pictures!

Motor Update............The heads are all done and set up for the SOLID ROLLER CAM!!! Brian is ordering me a 4340 Scat Crank and some Wiseco Eliptical Dish Pistons with 33cc Dish to keep the compression at 9:1. The Machine work on the block will start when the parts get there!

no matter what, promise us you won't paint the car!!!! :-D :-D :-D

You know I have this post printed out and tacked above my bed....

Looking good!! Makes me wanna put twins on something

http://hanginwithuatu.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/ikki_twins1.jpgLooking good!! Makes me wanna put twins on something
I always wanna put twins on sumthing :-D

How did you know!?!

Awesome build you have once again inspired me to copy you and I will be going twins on my Hemi.

This is lookin' awesome!!:snakeman:

I always can't wait to see what you have next and you're movin' so fast I never have to wait long for updated pics!!:cheers:

and the twins idea.... :downtown: :sign10: :toothy10:

http://hanginwithuatu.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/ikki_twins1.jpg
I always wanna put twins on sumthing :-D

The one on the left is better looking! And that comes from a guy that is not too hip on fake blonde's :-D

Awesome build you have once again inspired me to copy you and I will be going twins on my Hemi.

I seen that you mocked it up already! Get out the cutting tools and go after it!!

http://hanginwithuatu.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/ikki_twins1.jpg
I always wanna put twins on sumthing :-D


Ummm wouldnt that be QUADS?

Single GT 45 off Ebay on a Small Block Chevy. This guy REALLY choked his exhaust down. It looks like two 1 7/8 pipes feed it and a 2.5" Exhaust goes out the turbo. I dont see any INTERCOOLER either?? No Meth Either

Page 16 Here has some pictures and there are a couple videos of it SMOKIN the tires off!!

Sounds like it comes on boost around 2000 Rpm to me??

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=96046.375

It runs pretty good I would say!

Video Here:::

http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn24/lsxmalibu/?action=view&current=side2_0001.mp4

Another Tire Frying Video:::

http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn24/lsxmalibu/?action=view&current=20101016_141752.mp4

I have checked into Jet Hot Coating High Heat HVT Paint etc. I will not be wrapping the exhaust at all.

Mostly from what I have researched is the turbo Flange is what gets really hot. I will be running no more than 15lbs of boost most likely alot less to get to my goal with the engine itself making close to 500hp on its own. So Right around 8-9 lbs of boost should get me there.
The Meth should also help to get the Exhaust Gas Temperatures down some I would think.

I know of several guys running the same type of set up on the exhaust with good success even at 15+ lbs of boost. This is not a daily driver so I think It will be ok until I upgrade like I almost always do.

Good thing about these threads is everyone gets to learn what works and what doesn't without spending any of their own $$$, I would say that is a pretty good thing:-D
your damn well right valuble education for free thanks bro. love insane hotrods esp mopes

Check this one out.

Rusty Bridges Street car shootout Finals. Stock 5.3 LS motor turbo truck versus turbo supra

Single GT45 Ebay $300.00 Turbo 67mm , stock computer, 60lb injectors, stock 5.3 junkyard motor, dry shot of nitrous, non-intercooled. Powerglide with 3.08 rear gears. www.RacecarsINC.net

This lil truck scoots

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTV8QTIVYB0&feature=player_embedded

I like the major poke in the middle of the run and it still kicked that Supras a$$.

I like the major poke in the middle of the run and it still kicked that Supras a$$.

Yes he sure put the hurtin to em'

That little truck hauls azzzzz

Check this one out.

Rusty Bridges Street car shootout Finals. Stock 5.3 LS motor turbo truck versus turbo supra

Single GT45 Ebay $300.00 Turbo 67mm , stock computer, 60lb injectors, stock 5.3 junkyard motor, dry shot of nitrous, non-intercooled. Powerglide with 3.08 rear gears. www.RacecarsINC.net (http://www.RacecarsINC.net)

This lil truck scoots

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTV8QTIVYB0&feature=player_embedded


This is the response from the guy who posted the video. He says he modified the turbo in some way. I have some messages into him to find out what he did. My guess is he polished the exhaust inlet at the header flange.


"from guy who posted the video and helped with the install"
the truck isnt mine.. but here some specs from the owner..

5.3 motor from an 02 silverado
67mm chinese ebay turbo that I did some mods on
75hp dry shot of nitrous
Tuned with stock PCM and 60lb injectors.
Powerglide with 3.08 rear gears.
The pass in the video was a 6.4 @ 109 20psi 75shot on through the pass
The truck weighs 3150 and I would guess 650ish on the HP

no these thing spool pretty easy.. the nitrous is for instant spool and the extra power..


not sure if the guy in the truck runs a restrictor.. but i do run one.. i actully use the cx racing turbo inlet fitting that comes restricted already.. been working fine for a year..

I got a little bit of work done today but not as much as I thought I would. Seems to be the norm lately!!

I ran short on a 45* silicone fitting and I also need to order some more clamps cuzzzz I am going to run out also.

I really wanted to use the EXTREME VELOCITY carb hat but after measuring it would stick out of my hood by about 1.5" and I will not put a scoop on this car no way no how!!!

I need to check the measurements on the M1 intake to see if an intake change will fix the problem. I am hoping so.

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You can see here that I screwed up and cut the 45* silicone coupler SHORT, well this is HOT RODDING RIGHT?:-D

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I need to cut in the BOV's. As mentioned before I am using 2 50mm valves. I tested them on the bench and they open at 10lbs of Vacuum so when the throttle slams shut they should pop right off! The camshaft will be a SOLID ROLLER with around 230ish @50 and .600 Lift or so. I am hoping it will have plenty of vacuum. If not I can still adjust them.

I also have an Idea................... On the M1 the carb pad is high and MACHINABLE!! Soooo I will probably just switch to the M1 and have Brian Machine about 1 inch off the Pad so I can use the EXTREME VELOCITY Carb Hat and call it GOOD!!:cheers:

I have a 1/2" spacer under the Carb during the Mock up and the reason for that is I want to have enough room for a NITROUS PLATE..........ohhhhhhh yeah!! haaaaaaaaaa

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SAAAAWEEEET!! Can't wait to get started on mine!! Guess I am gonna go with the Large single due to the 383 in the A-body.

After more research on which restrictor works best with these Turbo's I have ordered these below. I thought about the restrictor itself and figured where they were mounted it would take a while with an .080 or so hole to fill up the 4an line and may starve the Turbo a bit before it actually got there. So using these the line will see FULL oil pressure at start up and be restricted right at the Turbo eliminating that FEAR!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350345285796&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Damn! That's some good lookin work so far louis!!! Keep it up!
Gonna be one fast machine....

After more research on which restrictor works best with these Turbo's I have ordered these below. I thought about the restrictor itself and figured where they were mounted it would take a while with an .080 or so hole to fill up the 4an line and may starve the Turbo a bit before it actually got there. So using these the line will see FULL oil pressure at start up and be restricted right at the Turbo eliminating that FEAR!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350345285796&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I ran Zmax in my 8 second Falcon once break-in was done. I had a faulty SVO oil pump that blew the bypass into the oilpan and dropped to 0 oil pressure half way thru a run @ 7200rpm. Shut it down by the time I went thru the traps. Got it home and tore the 514 down, Damn-no damage to the inserts. None whatsoever!! I am a firm believer in that stuff!! I will be using it in the 383 after break-in. Once I get the turbo I will be soaking the center section in Zmax after I heat it up with my map torch. I will break it in with Castrol 40 then change to Royal Purple with a bottle of Zmax and it should be ready to go!!!
Believe me!!! It WORKS!!!

I ran Zmax in my 8 second Falcon once break-in was done. I had a faulty SVO oil pump that blew the bypass into the oilpan and dropped to 0 oil pressure half way thru a run @ 7200rpm. Shut it down by the time I went thru the traps. Got it home and tore the 514 down, Damn-no damage to the inserts. None whatsoever!! I am a firm believer in that stuff!! I will be using it in the 383 after break-in. Once I get the turbo I will be soaking the center section in Zmax after I heat it up with my map torch. I will break it in with Castrol 40 then change to Royal Purple with a bottle of Zmax and it should be ready to go!!!
Believe me!!! It WORKS!!!

That is good to know.

I have had great success with LUCAS PRODUCTS.

They say to run a FULL Synthetic oil with a STRAIGHT Viscosity like 30 or 40 weight so the oil does not COKE, or cook and build up inside of it. Regularly changing the oil and cooling the Turbo's off before shut down will help dramatically. I change my oil more than enough on my Hot Rods. Probably every 500 Miles or so because those 500 miles are like 5000!! I use to change my Long Travel Buggy oil after 1 Weekend Trip to the sand dunes along with the Gear Oil in the Trans. The trans lasted me 5 seasons before it needed a rebuild and the engine ran like it was new always. I truly ABUSED that car no BS.

After more research on which restrictor works best with these Turbo's I have ordered these below. I thought about the restrictor itself and figured where they were mounted it would take a while with an .080 or so hole to fill up the 4an line and may starve the Turbo a bit before it actually got there. So using these the line will see FULL oil pressure at start up and be restricted right at the Turbo eliminating that FEAR!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350345285796&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Louis try running thoil feed lines so they loop and trap oil in them. A check valve might be a good idea too.

That is good to know.

I have had great success with LUCAS PRODUCTS.

They say to run a FULL Synthetic oil with a STRAIGHT Viscosity like 30 or 40 weight so the oil does not COKE, or cook and build up inside of it. Regularly changing the oil and cooling the Turbo's off before shut down will help dramatically. I change my oil more than enough on my Hot Rods. Probably every 500 Miles or so because those 500 miles are like 5000!! I use to change my Long Travel Buggy oil after 1 Weekend Trip to the sand dunes along with the Gear Oil in the Trans. The trans lasted me 5 seasons before it needed a rebuild and the engine ran like it was new always. I truly ABUSED that car no BS.

Yeah me too!
I use Lucas in the rear diff.. Also use it in the 833 with 8 ounces of Zmax.

Your going to have a moment of Awesomeness ones you get all the pipes welded and everything mounted and are able to step back and just look at how cool it is.

And then the tuning fun begins.

Looking pretty sweet!

Your going to have a moment of Awesomeness ones you get all the pipes welded and everything mounted and are able to step back and just look at how cool it is.

And then the tuning fun begins.

Looking pretty sweet!

Thanks, I cant wait for the day!

MOTOR UPDATE.......................

I visited Brian today "the machinist-ou812, IMM Engines" and picked up my upgraded heads ready for the Solid Roller Cam. The Scat FORGED crank came in also. The pistons should be here in about 3 weeks or so. They are Forged Diamonds with tool steel pins and we will be using a GFX ringset. He already has the 4340 H Beam Rods in his possession that are made by FALCON and have arp 7/16 hardware in them. So we are waiting for the pistons and then the block will get machined for everything.

Waiting for parts sucks!!!
I am at a stand still...

IMO with turbo bearing structures as large as what you are dealing with I would not run a restrictor.....the sleeve bearings are the restrictors themselves...just run your #4 or 3 line straight to the turbo and all will be good...you have a great drain setup so no problems there...if the turbos smoke then you have bigger problems.

No new pics of mine yet but motor and trans are in...lots of little things hooked up todqay.....about 2 more days worth of work and she will be alive Saturday!

WTF...no pics in 3 days!?!?!

WTF...no pics in 3 days!?!?!

Yeah I know!

I was waiting for my home brewed 5" Exhaust tip material to get here.....I have it so I will continue on. I am going to OVAL some 5" Pipe and Dump the exhaust with no mufflers right behind the Front tires. I will eventually be running the exhaust out the back of the car, but that can happen after the Engine is done at the DYNO!!!

When I get that all set I can cut in the Wastegate exhaust. I want to make sure everything is at the right angles and not hitting anything before I cut it in the wrong place an have to start over!!

I am also waiting on silicone parts, clamps, 2" Stainless V band rings and clamps. etc, etc, etc Almost done................

man now it looks like ill be doing twins. and your picks are great help in the ideas department.

I am pretty sure I will be running the same turbo(single) as turbocuda has. As soon as the financing shows up it will be ordered. I do appreciate all the info. provided by you guys!! It has been rough trying to figure out what to use but finally can see some light. Be sure to check out this site before you buy a blow-thru carb.. You have the skills to do this yourself from what I see!!
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

I also have a new MSD 6AL that I plan on using with the addition of the boost retarder from JEGS. Should work for what I am doing.

I have been waiting for parts to continue on...

I did end up making the drivers side exhaust dump today. What a PITA, I had to step it all up from 3.5" to 5" Home Brewed Oval. It was a pretty long project. I put all the Round pieces in the vice and started the process of making them oval. I had to massage most of the parts with Equalizer tools if you know what I mean. Once the 5" Pipe was close I put it on the gound and KICKED THE SHITTTTT out of it..........haaaaaaaa No Joke! It came out pretty darn oval!

I still need to adjust it a bit but I think it will look ok when the car is on the ground. It will disappear and you will only see a little bit of the tip when I am done with it........I may VHT paint them, we will see.


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I don't think you'll be sneaking up on anyone with that exhaust.

More..........................


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I don't think you'll be sneaking up on anyone with that exhaust.

Turbo motors are actually pretty darn quiet.

I am going to post one of Tim's Dart with at 88mm Single Turbo and the exhaust is dumped right next to the oil pan thru the K member, no muffler really short run of open exhaust pipe.

Found a few, here they are.............

YouTube - Tims Dart 0002

YouTube - Tim Skardoutos's 1971 Turbo Dart Swinger Dyno#1

YouTube - Tim Skardoutos's 1971 Turbo Dart Swinger Dyno#2

Dang, Im scratching my bald head just trying to tie in a new #3 tube on my header to clear the steering box! Sounds like you got it under control.

Why did you step it up from 3.5 to 5? Especially being that the exhaust is so short.

Tim's Dart is sweet. I wouldn't exactly call it quiet, though. Don't really agree with doing test runs down a main street either, but then again, I guess I've done it too.

Why did you step it up from 3.5 to 5? Especially being that the exhaust is so short.

I stepped it up to 5" for the look only, I like the way cars look with pipes behind the front tires. Plus when is the last time you seen 5" Oval exhaust tips?? I have never seen them.
When the car is back on the ground I will mark the pipes and cut them back a bit more so you only see them a little.

Tim's Dart is sweet. I wouldn't exactly call it quiet, though. Don't really agree with doing test runs down a main street either, but then again, I guess I've done it too.

Yeah that is the wrong area to be twisting it up! You move so much ground so fast and it is VERY dangerous.........life taking at that!!

I built a ram air system for a friend a while back and needed 6" oval tubing. Put a small pipe inside of it, under the legs of my engine hoist with another one hooked to the chain on the upper arm and just cranked it up, instant oval tubing.....

Man I just stumbled across your thread.... very nice!

I wouldn't exactly call it quiet, though.

What I meant was for running a straight pipe about 4 foot long with absolutely no muffler a turbo car is pretty darn quiet. Uncap our NA cars at the headers and use a decible meter. I guarantee that our NA Strokers will register WAY higher.

Shoot our NA cars are louder with the mufflers on them, especially when you are getting on it.:-D

This is going to be one nasty azzzz ride. Just love the look of your exhaust dumps on those exterior shots Louis. You could make some simple brackets/hangers to support the tips off the two lower fender bolts.

This is going to be one nasty azzzz ride. Just love the look of your exhaust dumps on those exterior shots Louis. You could make some simple brackets/hangers to support the tips off the two lower fender bolts.

Thanks, I do believe it will look better on the ground and cut back an inch or so.

Yes I was going to do a little hanger bracket right there after I know for sure that the other side ends up in the exact same place.

Very Nice!

Thanks, I do believe it will look better on the ground and cut back an inch or so.

Yes I was going to do a little hanger bracket right there after I know for sure that the other side ends up in the exact same place.

I"m with you on that score, the tips need trimming just a bit to pull them more under the rocker. With your fab skillzzzz you wont have any problem making the other side match.

I"m with you on that score, the tips need trimming just a bit to pull them more under the rocker. With your fab skillzzzz you wont have any problem making the other side match.

Ok, I got the other side done and it does match!! I was worried about it......really no joke!

Here it is. When the parts get here I will be cutting in the waste gate exhaust into the Turbo Exhaust out.............I needed to get this done first so If I needed to TWIST the pipes I still could. After the waste gate exhaust is cut in there is NO MOVING ANYTHING!!

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That is so freaking cool.... I want a turbo too!

Wish I could be there for the start up and first run down the track.

That is so freaking cool.... I want a turbo too!

Wish I could be there for the start up and first run down the track.

I want turbos too. And found a pair on craigslist for 425. They are now in my gerage waiting for the motor to get installed...........

I built a ram air system for a friend a while back and needed 6" oval tubing. Put a small pipe inside of it, under the legs of my engine hoist with another one hooked to the chain on the upper arm and just cranked it up, instant oval tubing.....

That is a really good Idea!

I nott dat smrttt t du thnkg lik dat.:-D

That is a really good Idea!

I nott dat smrttt t du thnkg lik dat.:-D
eyez got lurnd in publik skolz. i knot tink ov dat ether :bootysha:

I do have to agree though its a great idea. wonder if there are any pics of the final outcome. or more detailed discription. i would assume you cant just use a 1 in tube inside of a 6 in one or it would end up really narrowbut i think that a 2 or 2.5 in tube inside a 6in would work well. te bummer part is being limited on how long of a piece youcould do at once, and what about a bend how does that work?

Wow that thinks sweet! makes me want to do a turbo build.

Update on the front half of the cage!

My buddy who builds the full chassis cars finally got the time to order the pipe. We will be using 1 5/8 .125 wall DOM Pipe to finish the rest of it off. The main hoop is 1 3/4 which makes it legal to run the smaller pipe up front. It will be delivered to my Shop this Saturday. I guess it is time to Pull the front glass so I will be calling my Glass buddy to come pull the windshield out. I am sure it will be a bigger job than I am expecting like everything else has been!

Oh and the rest of the parts for the plumbing got here so I will be working on that Thursday I hope. I have probably 1 more clean up order for the hose that goes to the intercoolers, heat exchanger etc. I also need to order the Pump for the Air/Water circulation. There will be 4 - 7" Fans mounted on the radiator that pull or push 1100CFM each so 4400CFM of air cooling the Radiator. They only draw 3 amps each so I will be using 1 Bosch Relay to control them with a Temp Switch in a water jacket at the manifold.

Definetly different Louis.Heck with your talent,I,m surprised they,re not coming out at the bottom of the fenders.Now that would be sweet!8)Keep doing what you do!

eyez got lurnd in publik skolz. i knot tink ov dat ether :bootysha:

I do have to agree though its a great idea. wonder if there are any pics of the final outcome. or more detailed discription. i would assume you cant just use a 1 in tube inside of a 6 in one or it would end up really narrowbut i think that a 2 or 2.5 in tube inside a 6in would work well. te bummer part is being limited on how long of a piece youcould do at once, and what about a bend how does that work?
It has been a while but if I remember right I used 1 1/2" tubing inside the 6" piece. If you go to http://www.spintechmufflers.com/oval-round-tubing/cat_97.html you will find oval exhaust tubing.......it is a bit pricey and my friend did not want to spend the money on it. We only needed two 6" long pieces. We used a normal GM air filter housing so we needed the oval tube to be no taller than it. Does that make any more sense of it?? If not, let me know, I will have him email me some pictures of it and I will post them.......

yeah makes sense thanks for more detail it helps.

yeah makes sense thanks for more detail it helps.
For the flex tubing between the tubes in the core support and the tubes on the air filter housing he used 6" a/c tubing from a home hvac system. He pulled the insulation off of it and it was aluminum tubing underneath. I think he just got the a/c tubing from Home Depot. That is how the 6" size came about......

I worked on the car a little yesterday.

I had the wrong silicone parts and the lengths of the pipe had to be redone. The exit on the turbo is 3.25" and the parts I had were 3.5" which didn't fit very well. It is all snug now and it is the final mock up on them before I pull the Mock engine back out.

I also added the connections for the water lines to the intercoolers. I used Gray SCH 80 connectors. They are inexpensive and effective. I was going to use Stainless lines and AN fittings but for the whole set up to the pump etc would have been around $300.00. The way I am doing it now will cost about $30.00 for all the connectors, clamps and 3/4 Heater Hose. You wont see any of the fittings accept 2 of them through the grill at the heat exchanger, no big deal!

The engine is offset to the passenger side of the car as you all know, so the intake to carb tube needed to be longer on the Drivers side to end up in the same place as the passenger which is centered in front of the Carb to enter the Hat.

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Looking Great can't wait to see it all come together, and here it!!!!8^)

Worked on the car for about an hour. Took the Heat Exchanger out and put the fittings in it.

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Painted he heads that I got back from Brian at IMM Engines. I had them upgraded for the SOLID ROLLER cam, they were NEW never used still in the boxes from when I got them months ago.........The new spring pressures are around 175lbs at installed height on the seat and 510lbs open.

The valve covers will make the engine have some Bling......

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Very cool very, very COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!

Looking good! Is the bottom end of the engine already built? Are you going to test drive it before paint, or tear it all down and paint it before putting it all together?