what the men like.

this to complete Bretts thread, pics of my final engine before it goes in this weekend

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/20045251314726798390680.jpg


http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/20045254717383869306940.jpg

once the bell housing is dialed in straight she id ready and the Craig should be here in time to help fire her up.

:P :P :P :P :P :P :P :o :lol: 8)

amen brother! :lol:

Uhh cwagf waoiATas canae7tsd tya[eps..


Sorry, had to wipe the drool of the keyboard. Nice lookin' motor!

Uhh cwagf waoiATas canae7tsd tya[eps..

Exactly what I was thinking! :D

NICE :wink: Can't wait to get there!

Awesome looking piece Chad. How many sets of tires do you have for the break-in period? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Jack

I want one!!! but for some reason the wife thinks food is more important... :roll:

Just trying to catch up with you jack, hurry up craig getting ready to set he in just put the clutch on and frech coat of paint on the bell housing.

new coat on the lakewood, and diff Chrysler Red to match the eng

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/20045261695961146636149.jpg

Question what would be the easiest way for me to set this beast by myself/ I was thinking I would set the engine with the bell housing attached the stab the Trans from under on a trans jack. I can a damn soul to help me set it but you dan well can bet when the folks i know need something they will sure call me but those days are over they gonna pay from now on.

If you can angle the motor and you have the car up high enough you can put it in as an assembly, but if the crane does not lift high enough you may be better off putting the trans in after the engine is sitting in place.

Thats the prob I dont think I will be able to get it high enough to angle the trans in i think that the bell housing will go down which is the hardest part to bolt together and then i can stab the trans from the bottom with the clutch rod and throw out bearing.

Another delay, My trans that i had rebuilt at a cost of $525 is hung in first the first and second rod will not move at all nor the reverse the 3 and 4 move freely and suggestion before i take it back to the trans guy and beat $500 bucks out of his ass!!

Why cant folks just do it right the first time, he seems like a stand up guy just has some goof ball that work in the shop and they are killing his rep. he should can the lot of them and start new.

Hope you get the trans problem worked out. Looks like the earliest I can get there is in 2 weeks. I should have a definate date this weekend :wink:

that cool i should have it set before then but who know I am behind at work also. Just let me know when you have some dates.
Im taking the trans back today to the shop just hope i didnt get screwed.

Chad, I wouldn't advise putting that thing in as an assembly. It will never work. Remember you'll have your header's to deal with and if the bellhousing is attatched to the block you'll have a hell of a time getting the motor mounts in, plus you'll scratch the hell out of everything.

Drop the motor in, then put on the bellhousing and get everyhting else hooked up. It's a lot easier to work under there without the tranny in the way. Hooked up the Z Bar and rod, that way if you are restling the tranny you won't knock the clutch fork off the throw out bearing like I did. I did all this by myself and it's not hard. You can probably get that tranny in yourself, just have a jack handy. I would try and find another set of hands if you can.

One more thing I would do is use the federal mogul roller bearing for the input shaft instead of a bushing.

Chad, that is an awesome looking motor. I agree with Brett. Take it in steps and don 't try to overdue it all at one time. You don't want to scratch and nick that thing up as she looks to good. Certainly if I were closer I would lend my two hands in a heart beat. Hope all is goes well. When you gonna have the color contest for the exterior. Did I miss that?

Uhh cwagf waoiATas canae7tsd tya[eps..


Sorry, had to wipe the drool of the keyboard. Nice lookin' motor!



YES!!!!!YES!!!!!!!!YES!!!!!!!! Or in the words of Homer;"Agggggggg-Biiiiggg eeeeennnnnngine, Aggggggg" :lol: :lol:

OK Brett i am paused, I will pull the bell housing I just think is going to be a bitch to get that thing bolted back up once its in the car and Im still going to have that scatter sheid banging around behind the fly wheel.
What bushing are you talking about? are you talking about the piolt bearing?? If its something that is going to improve my out put let me know.

I will do it your way Brett, Did you have hell with the scattershield when you put yours back in?? i knew I was going to have to stab the tranny from the bottom already and I had planed ahead incase i had to do it the hard way and bolt bellhousing studs so I will just have to slide it onto the studs.

Brett did you run your headers before you put the bell housing on or after??

I still havent had the vote for the color yet Steve I went and got it from the body shop on monday, now im in the market for a new paint and body. Been there and done that havent you Brett. I dont even know if i will be able to get it painted before I get out of El Paso, I hope so but its not looking good.

Looks good Chad. Whats the final combo ?

Yop can order the pilot bearing for a newer(94) ram truck with a 5.2L from DC and get a torrington bearing to replace the brass bushing in the crank. Works great especially if you have an input shaft with a little wear on the nose as the torrington does not ride in the same position as the bushing did.

Adam the final set up was

340 Over 40 KB Flat tops Rings file fit to .030 for drags top gland only.
Eagle I beams on the stock steel crank.
Total balance weight 1939.5 a little heavy but not bad for a stock Crank
Deck set with a +.018 on the piston and clearance checked to the head
comes out to about 9.9-1 compression by the math but who knows
Mildon High Flow oil pump and Morroso 8 QT oil pan and pick up
Comp Cam 236 @ 50 495 lift
P&P J heads with 2.02/ 1.60 valves
Comp Steel RR
Comp HI Tech Rods 7.750
Air gap with the BIGs 650 stage 3
Carter Mech street strip pump cleaned up and 6 AN fuel line
MSD with crane HI6 box and coil MSD 8.5 MM wires
powermaster light weight starter
High flow water pump
March Billet Pulleys

still plan on sticking a Alum radiator on it before she fires up that and a magnum Alternator Powder coated read and March Billet alt braket

So how do you think she will do?? with the 4 speed and 3.91s think it will get me in the 12s?? 8)

You should be able to hit the 12's easily, especially it you run some short tires with the 3.91. Maybe we could see for sure when I get there :D

Chad,I don't know what header's you have but you will need to set them in the engine compartment before you drop in the motor. Just tie them against the inner fender wells so they stay out of the way.

The bellhousing isn't as bad as you think. I put mine in by myself with no problem. I jusy set it up on the pins and put a couple bolt's in one handed. I finished assembling everything before I slid the tranny in. It's way easier. My header's were already bolted to the motor so I just worked around them.

The bearing I'm talking about replaces the pilot bushing. Your crank has a large opening on the end of it and then a smaller one where the pilot bushing goes. The bearing goes in the large opening and then you don't need the pilot bushing. I don't have the part number but it is a federal mogul part!

As far as the body work, just start ringing necks and breaking backs. Start with the wash boy and then get the office manager. By that time the body and paint guy's will get the message. You don't want to wreck them right away or you'll have to do the work yourself, which in my experience is the way to go but finding the time is the problem. I would still like to run into the guy who jacked me around and dot his eye. ZEATER has met him and will contest to the fact that this guy don't want me to grab ahold of him :evil: :evil: :evil: I would snap him like a brittle stick. :twisted: :twisted:

well i am not out much just time, I only gave him $500 bucks he did about that much work when i cam to get the car he wanted more cash and I kinda told him to eat shix and bark at the moon. I got the car and everything that went with it and he got squat.

Anybody got a part number for that bearing that replaces the pilot bushing??

53009 180AB is the Mopar number, can't price it for you as it would be CDN funds. :D

If you're talking about the new pilot bearing that will work in any crank, I got a spare.

If you're talking about the new pilot bearing that will work in any crank, I got a spare.

Thats's the one I'm talking about.

so do i need this thing If so i need to get it ASAP I want to have this thing set before Craig gets here. Thats is a piolt bearing MOPAR part number 53009 180AB is that right?? Anyone got a pic of this thing??

I'll send one to you first thing Tuesday, you should have it by Friday.

you are the man Craig let me know how much. I went to Autozone with that part number and they looked at me like I was crazy, guess I better go borrow a piolot bearing puller, so how does this one install??

It just fits in the large pilot of the crankshaft, same place where the torque converter hub would be if you were running an auto.

so do I need to pull the pilot bearing or leave it in??

I would pull it as you don't need 2 of them doing the job.

If you pack the back of the crank with grease and get a bolt that just fits in the bushing and drive it in, the pressure from the grease should push out the bushing.

Hope this helps :)

The grease trick works pretty good 8)

Chad, you can just buy me a drink in Jtown. I usually don't drink, but I think I'll make an exception the week I'm in El Paso :D

Actually if you don't have a bolt lying around but do have a spare input shaft, that would be even better.

The right sized wooden dowel would also work. Just thought I'd throw that one in since Chads the woodworking kind of guy :lol:

all right i will give it a try, if that doesnt work Im sure I can find a puller some where. So what holds this thing in place just the clutch??

The bearing will just tap in. I used a hammer and just lightly tapped it in.

cool, well it looks like i am going to bea tearing this thing down again new bearing so the clutch has to come back off new timing chain cover so water pump and timing chain cover off, craig that thing may still be on the engine stand when you get here :roll:

bet it will go really quick with 2 guys that know what they're doing going at it :D

hope to have this done and the engine and tranny in the car before Craig gets here, I think if he wants we will go up into the Gila wilderness up to the cliff dwellings or Carlsbad Caverns down into Jarez mexico, find somethings to keep hin entertained not just work on the car but If he wants to turn a wrench some who am I to stop him :lol:

How long before you know about your Moose tag?

Hey Chad, I'll be there ready to wrench :wink: I wanna make sure your cars all wired and running before I leave there, or I might just have to extend my stay :shock: Not like I have a boss or anything that I need to get back too :lol: Man, I might just have to stay unemployed till I run out of money 8) At the rate I've been spending, might be soon :cry: Oh well, enjoy it while you can :wink:

Chad theres gonna be a couple of extra parts in the box with the pilot bearing, just put them on the side till I get there. Theres a couple changes I want to make to your car :twisted: Just small ones, really :roll:

Hey craig you can stay as long as you want, and you afre more than welcome to make any changes you want what the hell :lol:. If you are interested we might be able to find you some work down here you never know, i got a guy who has been trying to get me to go to work for him he has the perfect job for a single guy we will talk about it when you get here.

Hey six pack I didnt get drawn just my luck but maybe next year. I would like to get me a nice mulley but it will have to come after i have a new job and can save up the cash to do it.