what are the strongest gear's I can buy?

Is there any scientific proof to this or is this something like a spark plug debate? I need some strong gear's if I beef everything else up.

I run a Richmond Gear, I have NEVER had any problems with them.
But then again your runing WAAAAAY more HP :lol:

how about you get them cryogenically treated :)

these might be strong enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


http://www.thegearworks.com/ind/gearind1.jpg

Is there any scientific proof to this or is this something like a spark plug debate? I need some strong gear's if I beef everything else up.
The ring and pinion I broke a tooth off of was a Richmond. My quickest run was an 11.88 and I run an auto... Freak thing?

I have never heard anything bad about Richmond gears.
You also need to consider that your car may be fast but it's not that heavy which will mean less strain on the gearset compared to the Hemi car in the next lane that is as quick but another 1000-1500 lbs heavier.

Food for thought.

I used to run a Zoom 4.56, I've never tried the Richmond gears yet. I'm going to need to find a new set soon so I'm interested to hear what others have tried. The one thing that I have noticed is that no one has made a Pro gear only street gears.

I've run Richmond and US Gear. Both are very strong. The US Gears were 29 spline vs 10 spline for the Richmond. So they take different yokes. The only difference I noticed was that the US Gears were noticablly quieter than the Richmonds.

:lol:

Just make sure you order the street gears. Some race gears are not made to handle the heat generated on sustained street use and can become brittle. It will be interesting to see just what broke inside the carrier. It may not have been the gears.

Since you basically have no traction on the street I would think that the wheel hop is the problem. It would be pretty violent through the shift.

I truly believe this to be a fact. After you go below 11.5 and your launching hard, you best be putting a new set of gears in a 8.75 rear every year at the start of the season. If not, your going to break them. You might get away with a season and a half, or two, if you don't run every week, but it is going to happen. Just bite the buillett and spend the money for the new gears, and keep your car running. I see this happening all the time.

Earl

These gears weren't raced as far as I know and definately not raced with the 4 speed. I still think this is more of a wheel hop problem as Brett has zero traction on the street and violent wheel hop. I think pinion angle may also be a problem.

I'm sure we'll get it straightened out.

Just make sure you order the street gears. Some race gears are not made to handle the heat generated on sustained street use and can become brittle. It will be interesting to see just what broke inside the carrier. It may not have been the gears.

They only make street gears for the 8 3/4. I've never seen a 8 3/4 pro gear made yet :( Hopefully soon.

What about Strange gears? Anyone know if they are any good?

I have Richmond gears in mine now. The car weighs 2770 with driver, currently launching at 3600rpms on the 2-step, with converter flashing to 5000rpms, with a trans brake.. Also ran Richmonds in my old car. the only time that I had any trouble with a ring gear, was about 8 years ago when I used one of my other cars with a 4-speed, and slicks. I was side stepping off the clutch at the starting line at 6ooorpms, the ring gear didn't like that!! Only lasted about 20 passes untill I nocked 2 teeth off the ring gear!!

Forgot to mention I broke an axle shaft clean with a fairly mild 440 I had in my High School Challenger. :(

Maybe you broke the spiders.

Dana 60 and be done with it!

are motive gears any good?

Is there any scientific proof to this or is this something like a spark plug debate? I need some strong gear's if I beef everything else up.


FWIW, race gears are softer than street gears. The reason is the hard gears are needed for long term wear on the street and the soft gears will absorb shock better on a race car but at the expense of accelerated wear.

I agree with dgc333 as your power goes higher you need "softer" gears not "harder" gears.

Chuck

I truly believe this to be a fact. After you go below 11.5 and your launching hard, you best be putting a new set of gears in a 8.75 rear every year at the start of the season. If not, your going to break them. You might get away with a season and a half, or two, if you don't run every week, but it is going to happen. Just bite the buillett and spend the money for the new gears, and keep your car running. I see this happening all the time.

Earl200 passes they need to be changed if 8.75. dana 60 is a lot stronger . 10.52 @ 127 . 1.43 60 ft
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/7172duster/dyno414.jpg http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/7172duster/100_0285-1.jpg