Intake cooling mod. Opinions wanted

I see where some guys are drilling out the back of the intake manifolds and installing fittings to run a hose accross the sides to connect the rear coolant ports of the heads. What do you guys know about this mod? Is this considered a race mod or is it valuable for a street engine also? My 360 with a good 3 core rad. runs 200-210 in the summer months. I'd like to lower that if possible but there's not enough room to go with a 4 core rad. I was also thinking about adding the flow cooler disc to the water pump. Anybody tried one of them yet?

I have the necessary fittings to do so. I really now don't feel like pulling the intake to do this, so i'll hold off for awhile lol. I've been told 10* differences, its no cure for a insufficient fan or radiator in my opinion however. It can't hurt from what i understand..

oh i also have a flowkooler disc, seems to work fine, cheap. I rebuild my engine with it so i cant say a yes or no as far as better or worse. Just another, cheap, 'can't hurt' mod when i built it. I also have a highflow, balanced t-stat that i was recommended to run if i had low gearing to keep the pressure from closing the t-stat up during highway cruise.

Thanks for the input Mike. The only thing I'm not sure about is where to get that spacer under the thermostat housing. Where did you get the spacer at? Right now my intake is off so it's an oppertune time to do it.

Same thing I was thinking about the flowcooler disc. Can't hurt and it's cheap.

"I have the necessary fittings to do so. I really now don't feel like pulling the intake to do this, so i'll hold off for awhile "


Thats not mine :D. Mine will be plumbed to the heater hose fittings..

The only thing I'm not sure about is where to get that spacer under the thermostat housing. Where did you get the spacer at? Right now my intake is off so it's an oppertune time to do it.

Same thing I was thinking about the flowcooler disc. Can't hurt and it's cheap.

I used the Flow Cooler pump. I was upset at the short life span. The welds on the plate to impeler broke quickly. But it did work as advertised.
The thermo stat spacer can be found in the Jegs/Summit catologs in cooling or circle track. Something in the back of my head says a chevy part will work.

The only thing I read on the cooling mod is the head/engine like the water taken out of the center since you have 2 exhaust ports together rather than the ends. I only read that. (Engines manual I think.)

I just got done with mine .Everyone I talked to said it works 10-15deg .They talk about it in the big small blk book.The spacer is chevy and the thermo housing .They both use oring gaskets but i will use paper.

Yeah Rumble don't blame you. It should've lasted longer for what it costs. I'll check out the catalogs for the spacer.

Scamp408 that's exactly what I need. I have the air Gap too. Slick looking job you did there.

Scamp where do you get the book you refered too? I think I've heard of it but never saw it anywhere.

Thank you The book is called how to build big in small blk mopar blue cover.The auther talks about it but no good pics .Their is another mopar site I cant remember and he dicusses it in full detail.I think it was in the circle track sec .

Thank you The book is called how to build big in small blk mopar blue cover.The auther talks about it but no good pics .Their is another mopar site I cant remember and he dicusses it in full detail.I think it was in the circle track sec .

Ok I've seen that book but haven't read it. I'll check it out. Thanks

that intake picture looks awesome scamp 408 :thumbup: i like the fittings and it all flows nice compaired to the other pic :lol:

Thanks I brought the hose in and under so I had no problems hitting the carb.I dont know if I am going to use the spacer.The other pic s is good as long as it works.Now I have to pull my old manifold off a good running motor.Always messing with something.

this is cool. when is this nessacary? or is it a good thing to do for all motors thanks

moparchat.com go to circle track racing good reading

so is this only a good mod. for a 350+hp car or what

Scamp thanks for the hint about the thread on Moparchat. I checked it out and it is great info. Ole Sanborn sure is sharp.

Dusterboy in the thread on moparchat he talks about several cooling mods, not just this one. He says their good for a street and strip engine also. Go to www.moparchat.com (http://www.moparchat.com/) and check it out in the circle track section.

I got the new manifold on this weekend . Have to wait to run it some pics

I guess I don't quite understand this one. First, every drop of coolant traveling through theose hoses is NOT going through the heads. That means there is less flow around the exhaust ports. How much warmer do those need to be? Second, by routing these hoses through the gap in an air-gap intake you are now running hot water through an area you were trying to keep cool with the gap. But like I say, maybe I'm missing something here.

BTW Scamp 408, sure looks like a high quality installation.

From what i been reading and looking at cooling path direction pics is that the water pump pushes water through the block up to the heads .The water in the back of the heads has to go to the frt of the heads to the thermo than out. By the time that happens sometime the coolant turns to steam or sits and creates hot spot in the back of the head.All I did was make an exit for collant to flow out .The water cant cool anything unless it flows through the system. This mod has been done for years most of the chevy/ford manifolds have ports for this .As far as the hoses heating of thw manifold i think will be minimal . Thanks for the props on the install.

Hmmmm... So now I'm intrigued. Let us know how it works. With 4 of the appropriate AN caps you could remove the system for a "before and after" type comparison.

Hmmmm... So now I'm intrigued. Let us know how it works. With 4 of the appropriate AN caps you could remove the system for a "before and after" type comparison.

Very good idea to test it with and without it. If he don't try it I will when I get mine together. That will probably be 4-6 weeks though.

I got it done and fired it up .It stayed the same temp But it came down faster.I dont run a thermo I have a electric fan and set it to come on at 200 and shut off at 185.When the fan came on the temp came down faster than before .I may try a diff temp sensor I have one for 185on 170off. Also 88deg outside and I was testing in the sun

I wonder if using too large of hose would make the coolant bypass or slow down
thru the head? Thus causing the same problem somewhere else. A smaller diameter hose would allow pressure and stem to be released ,yet still force a majority of the coolant thru the head.

Just a thought

I got the new manifold on this weekend . Have to wait to run it some pics
that is cool. 1 more Q, where is the stat? above or below the spacer?

I wonder if using too large of hose would make the coolant bypass or slow down
thru the head? Thus causing the same problem somewhere else. A smaller diameter hose would allow pressure and stem to be released ,yet still force a majority of the coolant thru the head.

Just a thought

Considering the front coolant passage in the heads/intake is fairly large I would think to keep things equal you'd need to run a 1/2" hose otherwise your flowing more through the front compared to the rear.

that is cool. 1 more Q, where is the stat? above or below the spacer?

It would have to be above or the rear hoses would cause it to bypass the thermo.

I am using an-6 hose = to 3/8 .I dont run a stat but the stat goes under the housing like before .The spacer is just a spacer it builds up the manifold . Remember the housing is chevy now diff thermo,gasket more options for thermo housing.

I just got done with mine .Everyone I talked to said it works 10-15deg .They talk about it in the big small blk book.The spacer is chevy and the thermo housing .They both use oring gaskets but i will use paper.

What if you went straight across with the lines or do they have to go the way you have them?

What if you went straight across with the lines or do they have to go the way you have them?

The idea is to get the coolant from the rear flowing to the radiator so it gets cooled so going straight across wouldn't accomplish much.

Does it help to goto the center of the head ?

Does it help to goto the center of the head ?

I'd think it would because that's where they run the hottest. But how would you do that? There's no water port there.

Here is my setup, no real change compared to what it cost to do this. New 26in. Northern alloy radiator made all the difference, along with a custom alloy Mafaffey fan shroud, MP viscous fan, Milodon pump, water wetter, new hoses. Now it runs cool and my checking account is empty! Looking back, the rad. and fan shroud was the best investment.

Jack

What intake you got there Jmac? I was gonna do this mod to mine last year and bought a new E-Brock Air gap and it has gussets right over the rear water ports so unless I had them milled off I couldn't drill the holes. I put it together without the mod and found out my engine was actually running alot cooler than I thought. The gauge was way off.

M1 Open Plen.

Try it without the bypass hose and run an open t stat . My temp didnt get any lower but it does come down faster when the fan comes on. Looks good though.:cheers:

Can you drill & tap a hole in the head like the intake manifold ?
What size would be good if you did ?
Would you run the line to the thermostat housing or to the water pump ?

I use to have a 340 in my Dart that ran hot and I found this site with some really good info on cars over heating. They did have a tech line for hot rods which I used and the gentleman was a great help and didn't try to sell me anything. He explained the ratio that you want to run your water pump at to get the right GPH and how to temporary get my current cooling system at the time to run cooler which he did by 15 degrees. I ran that engine only one year and changed it out to the current 415 sb which has never ran hot and actually runs on the cool side with the same cooling system. I know the 340 had some problems that caused it to run hot. Anyways I thought this site could help any one. Jysnflem
http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

has any one tried this with alumium heads?

I did this mod on my 360 with W5 heads. I don't think it runs any cooler but it cools down faster. Mine is a race only setup so that's important to me because my engine doesn't like to be above 160 when I leave the line.

I ran my hoses into the crossover below where the t/stat would be. I run an electric pump and fan without a t/stat., just a restrictor.

This pic is hard to see though

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL463/2784639/5588263/71620536.jpg

This one might be a little better.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL463/2784639/14533069/247725747.jpg

I did this mod on my 360 with W5 heads. I don't think it runs any cooler but it cools down faster. Mine is a race only setup so that's important to me because my engine doesn't like to be above 160 when I leave the line.

I ran my hoses into the crossover below where the t/stat would be. I run an electric pump and fan without a t/stat., just a restrictor.

This pic is hard to see though

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL463/2784639/5588263/71620536.jpg

This one might be a little better.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL463/2784639/14533069/247725747.jpg

Nice job!! What size did you use ?
I'm doing mine in 8 A N .
W 5 headed 340!