Lokar kickdown help

Hi, just got my lokar kickdown cable. I can get full throttle when I step on the gas, but when I attach the cable, I cant get full throttle/kickdown lever rotation. Seems like the kickdown spring is too stiff adding to the throttle spring. I feel like taking a hammer to this bitch. Any ideas? Which hammer should I use. Seriously, anyone have any help? Thanks, Russ.

ditch the lokar and go race valve body and shift it youself. dont be a slacker...its much more enjoyable! or you can put a torch to the spring and loosen her up..

Hi, just got my lokar kickdown cable. I can get full throttle when I step on the gas, but when I attach the cable, I cant get full throttle/kickdown lever rotation. Seems like the kickdown spring is too stiff adding to the throttle spring. I feel like taking a hammer to this bitch. Any ideas? Which hammer should I use. Seriously, anyone have any help? Thanks, Russ.



have any pics of how it is hooked up?? you may need more slack in the cable adjustment.

Or change the cam on the throttle.
Shorten the throttle arm and the cable will not have to move as far.

I just installed mine but have not tuned it in yet....sorry, will let you know more in the next week

O.K. here are some pics www.putfile.com/icaneat50eggs Pic 1-W.O.T. and kickdown disconected. 2- W.O.T. and kickdown connected, but I have to use my hand to get it to wide open throttle 3- Idle position. 4- Idle position and kickdown disconected.

As far as hammers go

I would use the BFH and if that doesn't work use the RBFH

Either one will make you feel better.

well i have never tried it on a 6 cyl.. but in the pics it looks like there isn't enough slack in the cable... best bet is to hold the throtle all the way open and maybe wire the kick down back and adjust the cable that way...

Here's how i set mine up on a /6 4bbl.Works OK but still haven't properly adjusted it yet.Gets WOT OK.Hope this pic is of some help.

http://i11.tinypic.com/6hclw8m.jpg

Thanks guys, wiring the kickdown lever back and then hooking it up wot sound like it might be the ticket. I almost bought the manual valve body to get rid of the kickdown altogether, but then I'd have to buy a floor shifter, how would that look with a bench seat? Did the factory ever do that? I dont need to keep this factory looking , just dont want to turn it into a hoopty.

Thanks guys, wiring the kickdown lever back and then hooking it up wot sound like it might be the ticket. I almost bought the manual valve body to get rid of the kickdown altogether, but then I'd have to buy a floor shifter, how would that look with a bench seat? Did the factory ever do that? I dont need to keep this factory looking , just dont want to turn it into a hoopty.



i'm running a bench and floor shifter.. i think it looks fine..

I guess he is calling your car a hoopty!

Kick his ass Seabass! :blackeye:

Thanks again for the help. I dont mean to offend anyone.

I guess he is calling your car a hoopty!

Kick his ass Seabass! :blackeye:




seabass...lol


well he is right about one thing.. it is a hoopty... or hoagie wagon which ever comes to mind first...lol

Well I got it working now, when in drive and give it wot, it downshifts. Shift points are not at a low rpm. I think its good. I dont know what I did to get it to work though. I think the swearing helped. I did use a hammer, to beat the linkage bracket into submission. I really did not mean to imply that anyones car was a hoopty, I just may add the floor shifter now, though. Get the buckets later on. Maybe. Still having carb trouble.

I really did not mean to imply that anyones car was a hoopty,


we are just joking ..