rebuilt my carb.. now i need some troubleshooting help.

no, i did not screw it up. the carb works. its a 2 barrel carter, stock piece for my 318. the reason i rebuilt it is because the car would run just fine, then it would kind of die back a little, sputter, and die, then be almost impossible to restart. took a long time to get started usually anyway, died frequently.. etc. now i rebuilt the carb, easy, cleaned it out thoroughly, reinstalled it. now i have to pump it a few times to get the car started, or, it will fire right up immediately. either way, it wont run for more than 30 seconds or a minute, and it dies, no warning, just stops dead in its tracks. i have suspected my fuel pump for a little while now, but i dont want to go buying parts if i dont need to. any ideas?
..plz.
-jeff

put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what you got.

A quick test I use to do on those carbs to determine if they were bad was to put a rag over the carb with the engine running and try to choke it. A good carb will respond quickly and stall out. A bad carb will not react or react slowly.

why would a bad carb react slowly or not at all?

I think your problem is electrical, not fuel. Probably a ballast resistor heating up and separating or more likely a distributor pickup. When it quits running and won't restart you need to find out if there is fuel in the carb and spark at the plugs. Whichever one you don't have you need to do further diagnostic for.

well, i know its not my ballast resistor, i replaced that proactively a while back. i ended up giving up on that carb, it still leaked horribly inside and out. even after i adjusted everything accordingly...
i bought a remanufactured carb, $105.80, got it on, broke my pcv valve, oops, new one, my starter finally died, new one.. its all good now. car runs MUCH MUCH better. also fixed my interior lights, it didnt have any, but now it does :).
it still kind stutters a liiittle bit at higher RPMs, but its still running much better.
im thinking about replacing my coil pretty soon with a slightly higher output coil.

and, i also noticed that my downpipe from the drivers side is kinked to clear the torsion bar and starter,not to mention its tiny anyway... wtf. im gonna fix that soon.

why would a bad carb react slowly or not at all?

because of an internal air leak, this creates a lean condition, which will cause the symtoms you mentioned, intermittent stall outs.

oh, yeah, im sure it had air leaks, it leaked gas OUT all over the place, so im sure it could suck air in.