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Cost to prostreet....approx?

carcrazyguy
02-25-2005, 12:47 PM
Has anyone here ever had a car cut and fitted with aluminum? I might have access to a car that is pretty straight, but it is possible the floor pans are rusty. I was thinking it may be a good canidate for cutting the floors from the firewall back and having the car "pro-streeted"!!

I guess the race shop would build a box type frame and lay sheet metal floors and wheel tubs. Then get a narrowed rear end. Trust me this is not something that would happen overnight. :scratch: I just thought if I get the car and got it home and the floors are the worst part. I could strip the car and send it to a race shop and have the floors taken care of before it got worse. Then over time gather the other parts.

carcrazyguy
02-25-2005, 02:54 PM
Anyone? :scratch:



Maybe someone can help with a website maybe? A shop that does this kind of work maybe?

GotDart
02-25-2005, 03:27 PM
Maybe call these guys and get an estimate.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=130

sickt7cuda
02-25-2005, 05:19 PM
I do all my own work, so I have no idea what the labor cost would be to "pro street" the interior, but I will tell you that it's a lot of labor. When I did mine, I used steel instead of aluminum. Why, you ask? For one reason, I never learned to weld aluminum. #2) Aluminum dents easily.
#3) I feel that the steel floors and tubs offer better strength in tying all the pieces together. My 2 cents.
Dan

AdamR
02-25-2005, 05:22 PM
Maybe call these guys and get an estimate.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=130

Im sure he'd be glas to give you some help. Im going to be calling him about my mini tubbing.

turbodart
02-25-2005, 05:38 PM
to do it yourself? prob looking at 2000-2500 in parts. i think thats what i came up with for mine with "nice" parts. you can go all out and spend more, or you could cheap out and spend less. it depends on what your after. they used to charge about 5k to do a whole job, but i think that has risen to 8 or 10k now if i recall. labor is where its all at for sure. i get in the neighborhood of $600 to do a moved spring, minitub job-- parts, paint and body work on tubs not included--( im not really a body guy ).

--chad

Mopower71
02-25-2005, 05:39 PM
Maybe call these guys and get an estimate.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=130

Im sure he'd be glas to give you some help. Im going to be calling him about my mini tubbing.

Adam Why don't you do it yourself?

AdamR
02-25-2005, 05:47 PM
I want to replace the factory whell housings all together. I also need a rear fire wall made up and a cover made for the fuel cell sump.

The guy listed there is a relative of BossVegas and owns a nice 9 second Duster.

Mopower71
02-25-2005, 06:02 PM
I want to replace the factory whell housings all together. I also need a rear fire wall made up and a cover made for the fuel cell sump.

The guy listed there is a relative of BossVegas and owns a nice 9 second Duster.

Why do you want to replace the factory wheel housings?
Were'nt you making this into a street car? :scratch:

AdamR
02-25-2005, 06:06 PM
I figure Im 3/4s of the way threw cutting it up may aswell keep going. If I stretch the factory tubs it limits the tire hieght you can run without having to jack the car way up in the air. This way I can lower the rear over the tires a bit.

turbodart
02-25-2005, 06:42 PM
i 100% agree on using aftermarket tubs. unless you want that real sleeper look of widened tubs, i think the sheetmetal tubs would be a better choice IMO. i wish i did that when i mini-tubed mine. i have had no issues however with the stock modified tubs and 30" wheels though, its just a personal opinion and i have the same reasons as adam for wanting them. i will have them once i finish fully tubbing my car though.

--chad

AdamR
02-25-2005, 06:53 PM
The other thing is with the Fastback your going to see the tubs were the back seat use to be. You cant have them bolth.

the sheet metal ones will look alot better then the stretched factory tubs.
_________________
Adam

carcrazyguy
02-25-2005, 07:02 PM
I do all my own work, so I have no idea what the labor cost would be to "pro street" the interior, but I will tell you that it's a lot of labor. When I did mine, I used steel instead of aluminum. Why, you ask? For one reason, I never learned to weld aluminum. #2) Aluminum dents easily.
#3) I feel that the steel floors and tubs offer better strength in tying all the pieces together. My 2 cents.
Dan


Are you wanting to do another :D When can I drop it off!! :lol:


Seriously. I will get to really get a look at the car and its condition in a few weeks. But I was thinking about just gathering parts here and there over the next few years and when my wife gets out of medical school and we can afford to "throw away" some money I would have the car finished. :scratch: But I was thinking about trying to get the floors taken care of A.S.A.P. if they turn out to be bad.

GotDart
02-25-2005, 07:02 PM
If you're going to go that far, you should back half it with a four-link setup. And then .......

AdamR
02-25-2005, 07:05 PM
If you're going to go that far, you should back half it with a four-link setup. And then .......

I wish I went ladder bars/coil overs and notched the frame rails. It would'nt have cost much more then the relocated super stock springs and would'nt have been to much more work.

GotDart
02-25-2005, 07:13 PM
Yeah, but coilovers between some 33" slicks would really cool. :thumrigh:

AdamR
02-25-2005, 07:16 PM
It sure would

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/gallery/albums/SSAA/nhra_2003_ind_aw_0110.sized.jpg

sickt7cuda
02-25-2005, 07:43 PM
I too, at times, wish I had gone with the coilovers. I have ladder bars, 40" steel tubs, relocated SS leafs, and housing floaters. It was a lot of work and expense compared to just doing the backhalf with coilovers.

One thing that I can attest to; this set-up flat out works. Maybe that extra weight in the ass end is a blessing in disguise.

AdamR
02-25-2005, 10:05 PM
This just looks alot cleaner then stretching the stock tubs.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/gallery/albums/Members-cars/DSC00018.jpg

Mopower71
02-25-2005, 10:19 PM
Yep, it is cleaner looking. Who's car is that?

AdamR
02-25-2005, 10:25 PM
Thats B1Cudas car. He's running 30X13.5 M/T ET streets.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/gallery/albums/SSAA/Cuda_Pics_021.jpg

THEWHITEZOMBIE
02-25-2005, 10:28 PM
Very sweet car one of my favs.i want a cuda so bad!

FASTBACK340
02-26-2005, 07:14 AM
If you're going to go that far, you should back half it with a four-link setup. And then .......

Yep.... this is how it goes horribly bad. The " So long as...." syndrom. So long as I'm checking the tire pressure, I may as well mount a set of M&H's.... So long as I'm replacing the header gaskets I might as well install TTI's.... As long as I'm changing the main jets I'll install a Demon.... :laughing:

BTW: I'm just as bad..... :confused:

klrfish1968
02-28-2005, 06:48 PM
Mine was a 5 year project... The "while I'm right here" got me, too. I used steel and did it all myself. The finished project draws a crowd anywhere it goes but big tires do that and that was pretty much the plan. The car is a 68 Barracuda fastback. It has a 4-link, coil-overs, tubs, 19.5 Mickeys, etc. Typical back half car - not cheap, even if you do it yourself. The 4-link was cheap - around $150 - doesent'come w/hiem ends - around another $150. Coil-overs w/springs - $400. Dana 60 housing to build - $75. Getting it narrowed - $75 - axles (moser) $600 - included 5/8 studs and bearings. Spool - w/bearings - $275, 5.38 richmond ring and pinion $100, bearings for carrier - $150, wheel tubs $80 - some assembly required. Wheels and tires - got to roll on something... $750, fuel cell - $175, plus there's all the metal required to build the frame rails and floor, around $150. Some of it the stuff was new, some was swap meet stuff, but it all costs money and that's the easy part... Now you've got to put it all together - adult supervision required. I used steel instead of aluminum because I've seen rocks from the road punch holes through aluminum tubs - I don't want any. hope all this helps... :salut:

AdamR
02-28-2005, 07:02 PM
Welcome a board !

:worthles:

DodgeFreak
02-28-2005, 10:28 PM
hows 4 link set ups drive on the street??

GotDart
02-28-2005, 10:35 PM
klrfish1968 wrote:

some assembly required
and
adult supervision required

I supposed batteries aren't included either. Sounds like quite a project. Welcome to the forum.

rabius75
03-01-2005, 12:59 PM
why, idk, but i had a dream lastnight that i modded my car and it ended up with some big x huge tires under it but it still sat completely level, lowered some. and the motor was a LOT more potent than it actually is.. in my dream my car looked good because it looks so long, but its still a four door...
i didnt sleep much because my girlfriend's puppy woke up at 6 am and wouldnt go back to sleep for more than like, 45 minutes at a time, then whine really loud for about half hour. im taking care of it until thursday while she is out of town.
so i dont know if my dream woulda been better or not.

GotDart
03-01-2005, 02:00 PM
rabius75 wrote:
i had a dream last night...

but its still a four door...
Can you say 'suicide doors'? 8) Now go back to sleep. :D

rabius75
03-01-2005, 05:15 PM
suicide doors... on the back?
suicide doors are funny lookin.. but i was going over how i could make the hinges. if i keep the car to customize instead of buying a two door, im gonna suicide the back doors and switch the door handles (left rear to right rear and vice versa) and put them at the front of the door.
but i may end up using this for a parts car since it has so many useable parts :)

..another thread hijacked :wink:

THEWHITEZOMBIE
03-01-2005, 05:53 PM
..another thread hijacked :wink:How many is that now 4-5 :roll:

klrfish1968
03-01-2005, 05:55 PM
To the question "How's it drive on the street?", well, personnally I think it can be a handfull. You have to take into account that there is no longer any rubber in the rear suspension, so now you feel AND hear every bump in the road. Having a spool doesn't make for good cornering, however, big tires do smooth the chatter clear out of it when you do have to make a turn. My car has pizza cutters on the front and it still turns fine - the back tires don't push the front ones when you turn into the driveway, and it still stops fine. Would I do it again? Only if I was building a drag only car. A spring relocate w/ladders will get a pretty good sized tire under the car and also gives the crowd something to oogle at the kwik shop. We put that set-up under my brother's '69 Dart and managed to squeeze a 29x11.50x15 UNDER the car, without cutting the rearend. His car kind of sneaks up on you... Your really don't notice the meat under it until you get behind it - probably has something to do with the wheels we had to use to keep from narrowing the rear. If I can figure out how to post a picture I'll get one on for you. I'll probably have to get one of the kids to show me how..

70Barracuda
03-01-2005, 11:30 PM
I dont know how to post a pic here either. Like to show all how my mini is done. I thought of it in 90-91. Split the well in the trunk, tossed the inside and built new ones.

I thought pro street refered to the time it runs. Pro time-street driven?

klrfish1968
03-02-2005, 05:54 PM
Hit the "album" button - I got a picture in.

AdamR
03-02-2005, 05:59 PM
You can send me pics to post if you'd like.

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