360 Back from the Machine Shop

Just picked up my block and crank from the machine shop and though you folks would like to see some pictures of the work;

Basically what I had done was;

1. the crank was turned 0.010" under to remove the scoring on the journals.
2. The rotating assembly was balanced. I am building the engine with Keith Black flat tops and Eagle SIR rods both of which are lighter than stock parts. If you are considering using parts like these and not balancing the rotating assembly don't. They removed 200 grams from one end of the crank and 240 from the other end. That's just shy of a pound of metal. Can't even imagine how much that thing would have vibrated that far out.
3. Had the block cleaned, soda blasted, magnafluxed and sonic checked. The mains were checked and didn't require a line hone with the ARP main bolts.
4. The block was zero decked to the KB pistons. From the factory one side was so far out of square it took all the metal in the decking operating to get it square.
5. The block was bored 0.030 over and honed with a boring plate.
6. Other incidentals were installing new cam bearings, I would normally do this but they didn't charge me so it saved me borrowing the cam bearing tool from my kids shop. They washed the block again after machining so I had them paint it before dipping it in rust preservative. They used etching primer and Hemi Orange.

I have the short block back together and before I button it up I will take some more pictures.

sweeeeeeeeettttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very Nice!!!!

Cool!!!!

How much did all the work cost you?

Don't have the numbers to the pennies but it borke down like this;

Clean the block, magnaflux, measure to determine work needed: $225
turn and polish the crank : $125
measure and balance rotating assembly: $375
Deck and bore block: $575

There not the cheapest around but have a great reputation in the hot rod circles. They do a lot of high performance work on all brands and have a big following in the Harley circles. Super clean shop and they take a lot of pride in their work (they gave me the CD with all the pictures of the work on my engine).

whats going in it????

people who puts pride in there work is worth a lot!

Don't have the numbers to the pennies but it borke down like this;

Clean the block, magnaflux, measure to determine work needed: $225
turn and polish the crank : $125
measure and balance rotating assembly: $375
Deck and bore block: $575

There not the cheapest around but have a great reputation in the hot rod circles. They do a lot of high performance work on all brands and have a big following in the Harley circles. Super clean shop and they take a lot of pride in their work (they gave me the CD with all the pictures of the work on my engine).

Looks like nice work. I'm having the same thing done except for the balancing since I'm not changing to lighter rods. Plus I had the mains honed for the ARP studs. But where I'm having it done looks like a chop-shop! Damn place is cluttered and packed with stuff. But he too has a great reputation.... Supposedly the #88 truck in the Hooters race this weekend has one of his engines in it. He left for Florida this morning.....

Let's see if it grenades ! http://community.the-underdogs.org/smiley/armed/crumble.gif

Very nice!

nice!!!! now i gotta see if mine will look that nice when it comes out of the shop.... once i find one that is!!!!

looks good!,funny i just had the same thing done with my 360 except for the balancing.infact i pick up the goods today,even took the day off work so i can wrench and stare at it in the garage.l

whats going in it????

This!

I'm having the same thing done except for the balancing since I'm not changing to lighter rods. Plus I had the mains honed for the ARP studs. But where I'm having it done looks like a chop-shop! Damn place is cluttered and packed with stuff. But he too has a great reputation.... Supposedly the #88 truck in the Hooters race this weekend has one of his engines in it. He left for Florida this morning.....
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Even if you are using stock rods if the pistons are significantly lighter than the stock pistons you should really think about having it balanced.

I am using ARP main bolts which torque to 130 ft-lbs lubed with oil or 85 ft-lbs when lubed with ARP's grease. I fully expected to have to have the mains resized with these bolts but everything stayed true even with the higher clamping force. The machinest told me he wasn't surprised because the mopar bottom end is so strong.

The most important thing is the reputation the guy has for his work but if you don't have that imput I would go with the guy with the clean well laid out shop over one that's a mess.

This!

He asked what is going in the motor, not what the motor is going in. :laughing: Come on now and give us your build recipe. Curious minds have to know...

BEAUTIOUS CUDA THERE DAVE. That will definately be a total package and something to be "REALLY PROUD OF". My hat is off to you..........Don......

Oh! :\

As previously mentioned the bottom is is Keith Black KB107 flat top pistons at zero deck on Eagle SIR rods.

The cam is a Comp Extreme Energy XE268H (268/280, 224/230@0.050", .477/.480, .509/.512 with the 1.6 ratio rockers)

Heads are a set of Magnum heads with 62cc chambers giving me 10.8:1 compression.

Intake is a Professional Products CrossWind dual plane. Still keeping my eyes open for a deal on a vacuum secondary carb in the 750cfm range.

Hedman 1 5/8" headers into a 2.5" exhaust with 50 series Flowmaster Delta Flows.

The engine will be infront of an A833OD overdrive 4spd and an 8.25" 3.55 sure-gripped rear end.

Well I had a busy weekend! :)

Here are pictures of the assemblied short block and long block.

Looks good. Very good advice in this post too. Nice Job.

[QUOTE=dgc333]Oh! :\



Hedman 1 5/8" headers into a 2.5" exhaust with 50 series Flowmaster Delta Flows.

QUOTE]
do you know how the 50 series flowmaster compare with the dynomax super turbo's for sound? i am trying to decide on which way to go. I just bought a set of tti ceramic coated headers.

looks great.... cant wait till my 360 looks that nice!

do you know how the 50 series flowmaster compare with the dynomax super turbo's for sound?

The Flows will be louder even though they are longer.

[QUOTE=dgc333]Oh! :\

Hedman 1 5/8" headers into a 2.5" exhaust with 50 series Flowmaster Delta Flows.

QUOTE]
do you know how the 50 series flowmaster compare with the dynomax super turbo's for sound? i am trying to decide on which way to go. I just bought a set of tti ceramic coated headers.


Well I would say the 50 series are quieter than the short super turbo's and about the same as the longer hemi super turbo. I have a buddy with a built 360 tti's and a 2.5" system with 50 series Flowmasters in his Barracuda. It sounds great, just enough rumble to know there is something under the hood but not so much to drive you nuts with interior resonance.

FWIW, I have a 3" single 50 series SUV muffler (thicker than the standard 50 series) on my Dakota and you get the flowmaster sound at idle and WOT but going down the road it's barely noticable. This is just what I want for the Cuda, the glass-paks under the car now wear on you after an hour or so on the hiway.

I like Dynomax Super Turbos and have used them on a number of vehicles over the years. I am going with the Flowmasters because my daughter is doing the exhaust over for me at her muffler shop and they stock Flowmaster and Magna Flow products. I had thought about the Magna Flows but since Katie is doing this as a freebee for me and the Flowmasters are less expensive I figured that I would not hit her bottom line any more than necessary.

How are the 50 series comparable in sound to the 40 series? The 30 series from what I hear are really loud.

50 series are 3 chambers, They are alittle quieter. The 40s are 2 chambered. Also the new deltaFlows have a deeper tome and dont drone as bad as the older flows.

I have 3" 40 series deltaflows on my car and it ends before the rear. Its actually pretty quiet while cruising at 2500 rpms.

Well here are some pictures of the 360 already to be installed.

Looking good.

Magnum heads?

Yes, magnum heads.

Looks great!

Jack

Awesome build! That is pretty much identical to what I plan to build, except I'll be using the XE274 cam with 1.6 roller rockers and RPM air gap and heads.

Let me know how it runs! I'm jealous.

-Alex

Will Do! I am starting the engine swap this weekend. I hope to fire up the engine next week.

that is just beutifull!

That is purdy...

very good job.....

I started the engine awap last weekend and I finished up the ods and ends on Saturday. The engine runs strong, stays cool and doesn't ping. :))

Still have to sort out some clutch adjustment issues and gat an appropriate carb for it. I will get my daughter to do a new exhaust this week and get the front end aligned.

Here are some pics of it sitting in the engine compartment.

Looks nice, wish mine looked half that good. :/

I started the engine awap last weekend and I finished up the ods and ends on Saturday. The engine runs strong, stays cool and doesn't ping. :))

Still have to sort out some clutch adjustment issues and gat an appropriate carb for it. I will get my daughter to do a new exhaust this week and get the front end aligned.

Here are some pics of it sitting in the engine compartment.

So how does it run with the 1.6 rockers? I have almost the same setup with my 360 and it's XE268 with the 1.5 units, and was considering doing the swap. But I was curious about what it does to your power band: where does does your 360 "wake up"? Thanks!

regarding thepicture of the assembled engine, why is the harmonic babancer have that extra balancing peice of metal, I used a crank out of a 65 A 318 in a 73 318 block with stock rods and pistons, I just hope I didn't fuck anything up

that intake looks like a EDELBROCK AIRGAP!!!

that intake looks like a EDELBROCK AIRGAP!!!
Yes it does, but it's not. Look closer and notice the "LA" bolt holes. That there be a crosswind.

So how does it run with the 1.6 rockers? I have almost the same setup with my 360 and it's XE268 with the 1.5 units, and was considering doing the swap. But I was curious about what it does to your power band: where does does your 360 "wake up"? Thanks!

Pulls strong from 1500 rpm and really comes on strong from 2500 to 6000 rpm. I will rev right on past 6000 but I have 6000 as a self imposed redline. The rocker ratio won't change the rpm range noticebly but should give you more power in the same range.

regarding thepicture of the assembled engine, why is the harmonic babancer have that extra balancing peice of metal, I used a crank out of a 65 A 318 in a 73 318 block with stock rods and pistons, I just hope I didn't fuck anything up

The engine is a 360 which is externally balanced. There is an extra weight on the balancer and extra weights on the torque converter with an auto tranny or in my case weight removed from the fly wheel on the opposite side.

that intake looks like a EDELBROCK AIRGAP!!!

The Professional Products CrossWind does look a lot like the RPM Air-Gap but if you look at them side by side there are quite a few differences beyond just the dual mounting pattern.

Hi, doing the same thing with a 340, flat tops,xe268 etc. What kind of gas are you planning on running? Is this going to be a street ride? what carb are you going with this set up? walt :thumblef:

I have 10.6:1 compression and have been running the engine on 89 octane. It's strickly a street car. I am currently running a 600 cfm vacuum secondary Holley but will be swapping on a 670 cfm Street Avenger Holley before spring.

Since I won't be spinning this engine past 6000 rpm I feel the smaller carb will be a an overall better performer.

Pulls strong from 1500 rpm and really comes on strong from 2500 to 6000 rpm. I will rev right on past 6000 but I have 6000 as a self imposed redline. The rocker ratio won't change the rpm range noticebly but should give you more power in the same range.

That's about what I figured, and yes the RPM range looks very much in line with the way my 360 runs with the 1.5 rockers. I too have found that it will happily pull past 6000, but make it a point to shift anyway as I have no desire to unecessarily abuse the bottom end. Thanks for the input!

I also noticed that you are running a 4150 on it. I know a few anal retentive CFM calculators would say that more would be a waste, but you might want to try something a little larger to see a huge gain between 4-6K. I slapped a 4781 :shock: (had one laying around) along with a 1" spacer on my 360 and I was shocked to discover that it is quite happy. Try it, you might like it......

Cheers! :burnout:

Ultimately I would like to borrow some different carbs to try before investing. I would hate to go out and purchase a 750cfm and find that I have lost some of that great throttle response that I currently have so if I don't get an opportunity to try some I will likely go with the 670cfm Street Avenger.

I have a fairly similar setup. Topped with the Holly 670 street avenger. My motor seems extremely happy with it. If you have access to a few carbs to try out, why not, but I think you would be happy with the 670. If you get worried, Jet downs a 770 ;)