Electronic ignition conversion help.

how hard is it to get the whole ignition conversion installed? thats the first thing i want to do on my car. i dont want to put any stereo equipment thats worth anything in my car until i get the electrical system worked out, at idle, the voltage is horribly inconsistent.

but i want to convert it to electronic ignition, and i was wondering how hard i could expect it to be. how long does it usually take to install too?

As far as converting to electronic ignition goes that's easy. Just swap out the distributor (watch closely when you remove the old distributor and install the new one with the rotor pointing the exact same direction) and mount the electronic ignition box and run the cable that comes with the kit and hook up the hot wire and start the engine and set the timing. Shouldn't take over a couple of hours. The only thing is if what you are worried most about is the inconsistant voltage the electronic ignition swap won't do anything for that. That is a function of your voltage regulator. YOur regulator might even be going bad. They have an improved electronic regulator to replace the old switching style that will greatly improve this problem. Check your local auto parts store. Also run one of those big Capacitors near the stereo power input leads. By the way most stereo shops try to tell you need the biggest capacitor available. This is hogwash. I'm an electronics tech and I can tell you 1/2 farad (also called 500,000 microfarad) is plenty for any stereo up to 2000 watts. Don't waste your money on anything biggger than that.

If your car still has the original distributor and ignition system, then you already should have an electronic ignition system. They were standard on all the cars from 73. Just add a MSD 6AL and get the charging system up to speed. Sounds like a new voltage regulator sould do the trick, but might as well get the alternator checked. Most parts shops will stick it on their machine for free.

here check this post i have on another site http://www.dodgecoronet.com/forum/showthread.php?s=0088f22a64cdb10c61d4b493d0a5d4da&threadid=300


it is a diagram of how to do it... it is really easy.. you can go cut everything out of a junk car if you want... it comes down to two wires.... the blue one goes to the key power side of the ballis and the black with the yellow tracer goes th the negative of the coil...

well, the reason i was wanting to get the electronic ignition conversion to satbilize the voltage is, the car runs rough, partly because it needs a tune up pretty badly... the voltage pulses with the engine, thats why its inconsistent... and the car has a new alternator, battery, and terminals.

are you sure the car has an electronic ignition? would the conversion be an upgrade for it? im gonna go look here in a minute to check it out.. the car is getting a tune up thursday or friday after i get my pay check, and new shocks all the way around.

yes you should have the electronic ignition already. Th eonly differance between the stock one and the afternarket version is the ECU and the advance curve. It wouldnt be worth spending the money on. If your going to upgrade get the FBO kit.

Here ya go.
http://www.mopartech.net/Cgi-Bin/YaBB/YaBB.pl?board=electricaltech;action=display;num=10 75262976

you can buy the ECU for it separately, would it be worth it?
and whats the 'fbo' kit?

Heres the FBO site http://www.4secondsflat.com/

thanks, ill look into that when i have the money, looks good.

Just FYI - Don says the FBO distributor does not track well with the MSDbox and recommended that I not use the two together.

Personally I'd run the MSD 6AL with the stock distributor till I had enough to get the MSD distributor. But thats just me :wink:

this is hard...
i want a good combo, but there seems to be so many choices (as always.)
i was thinking of just getting the Orange ICU for my car and a new coil.
bad idea?

If you know someone with a labscope check for the alt pattern at the positive to negative posts on your battery. Those alt"s will cause idle concerns if the brushes and rings are worn out. The brushes will float and actually arc causing severe voltage spikes which will affect every electrical and electronic componet on the car. You will not notice this on your gauge.
Another way but no the most acurate way is simple disconnect the field wire while idling and see if the idle smooths out or becomes more stable.

Just a ideal for you to check.

John

well, i found out today, its because the guy that owned it before me, didnt care for it enough.
i bought plugs (autolite platinum), wires, and a distributor cap today, they didnt have the rotor button, bastards...
but i only got to two plugs and three wires and the distributor cap.
holy shit what a difference. my car is still a little rough idling (misses a little), but it doesnt stutter from a stop anymore.

:?: I just put a new 360 with a new MP electronic ignition in my 68 Barracuda. I may have done something wrong as I can't get it to crank. I do have power in the run position at the ballist, ( I think it is the run position. I have hooked up the two wires from the ECU according to the diagram but don't get any crank. I can jump the started relay and get it to turn over. Can someone please tell me what I have done wrong?
Thanks
Gerry

Your saying that when you turn the key it doesnt crank but you can crank it with the relay ?

That doesnt sound like it has anything to do with the ECU wiring.

YEp....I can't quite figure it out. I may have knocked something loose when I dropped the engine in. I got frustrated with it and walked away. Going to go at it with a new vigor this Monday afternoon after work. Any ideas where to start looking???

Check the wiring to the starter relay and from the relay to the neutral safety switch on the auto trans.