Shes alive an shes stayin alive!!

Hey yall! Well the zombie is close she fired up last weekend for like 4 seconds and did the same today i dont know what the hell is up her butt! I thought that it was the timing but we checked and checked it agian!the cap is on #1 and it still just wont go!new plugs all but 3 up front ran out of them :? new wires and new points for the dist. We just cant figure it all out! its getting plentty of fuel we bypassed the the fuel by running the wire from the elec. fuel pump to the batt. when we need full to save the trouble! the carb is being a little beach it back fires and spits fuel out the top when the secondary flap thing is closed?WTF?We just dont get it! need help?i know this makes no sence but help me ou the bvest u can!Thanks let me know if u need anymore info illl try my best to get it out of my head!
MIKE :twisted:

hi, had same type of problem when i first fired up my 340, especially spitting fuel out the top. turned out to be shmutz in fuel filter, and in primary bowl. had too take filter and front of carb apart twice too get it all cleaned out. but i had also installed a new fuel tank, and line. no more problem. hope your problem is as easly solved.

tony

i know that i need to clean my tank but the car did run i drove it to school for weeks like that no prob. now it just wont run anymore with the cam and all the work that iv done to get it cool agian i know that i ned to fix the tank but that shouldnt stop it from running.Right?
MIKE :twisted:

anyone hav any ideas what the hall is goin on with her?i need ot fixed soon the car show is on the 7th

If it's back firing through the carb. your timing is off.Probably advanced to far.Try loosening the distributor and have someone turn it while your cranking it over.Goo luck!

wev tried that and nothing it wants to go but it just dont

Did you degree in that new camshaft when you installed it? Are you still running points distributer, or have you switched to electronic? Did you check the ballast resistor? Did you make sure the firing order is correct and all the plug wires good? Could be lots of stuff, just be systematic and check every little detail. Good Luck.

Did you degree in that new camshaft when you installed it? Are you still running points distributer, or have you switched to electronic? Did you check the ballast resistor? Did you make sure the firing order is correct and all the plug wires good? Could be lots of stuff, just be systematic and check every little detail. Good Luck.No we didnt degree the cam :( we should of but we put it how the old one was!and its still the points im thinking that if i get the kit id fix it all up good!hears what we found we put the #! piston TDCdist.is on the #1 wire we crank it over and she is 180 of we arange the #1 wires to fire how she likes it and it cranks and shes 180 agian!WTF evey time we change anything she goes back to 180 off,i hav no clue is in what hell to do the pugs ,wires are new new points and condencor! idont get it this is the second weekend shes done this!Help me if ya can people!Thanks MIKE :twisted:

You need to bring it up on compression stoke TDC to verify your dist position. #1 andf #6 cyl are at TDC compression 180º apart.

Start over with the dist position and go back through the firing order making sure you are placing the wires according to dist rotation.
Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 just in case.

Go get you dad to put it back in time and the right wirring order sounds like you put the distributor in wrong also when you changed the cam did you atleast line up the dots on the timing chain and the cam gear. You dont have to degree it with a wheel to get it to run but you do have to line up the dots the wheel will just optimize your performance and ensure that it is degreed IAW the cam card.

Go get you dad to put it back in time and the right wirring order sounds like you put the distributor in wrong also when you changed the cam did you atleast line up the dots on the timing chain and the cam gear. You dont have to degree it with a wheel to get it to run but you do have to line up the dots the wheel will just optimize your performance and ensure that it is degreed IAW the cam card.we got the timing right on the spot where the car wants to run at its all set at the stok point from the mark on the dist. and the block,my comp. 120 on all give or take alittle! we did line the dots on the gear drive(milidon) dot to dot like i was told by all of u and my dad!I think that something is opening when its not sopost to open like the intake or exhaust valves or could they be opening to soon?we came to the conclucion of tearing it down agian for the 5th time now and getting the cam done right with a wheel! and looking into a ofset cam key if needed and anything else that we need to get it set up the way i like it its pissing me off two weekends now its been giving me crap!its a new cam so this cant be good and a new CVR starter that i hate to beat on like this!Also WTF is up with the carb spiting up gas not a lot if any just it spits up when the chock plate is closed all the way?WTF?With that im thinking its a timing thing but we hav it all done right the plugs fire on the #1 at TDCthe cap is where it needs to be so we think its the cam!Right? :twisted:

at his rate it looks like shes not going to make it to the Mopar car show for her first time :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

everyone is more then welcome to give me some ideas my dad has done all the tricks he knows from when he was younger even my older friends came to help and still we came to the same thing time in and time out!Thanks to all agian for the Help!MIKE :twisted:

I still think you are after a timing issue, re-check your points as well.
Dot to dot is firing on #6 cyl. dot on top to dot on top is firing on #1.
You could be kicking back through the carb because dist is 180º out or you have a plug wire misrouted. I would not tear the engine down again based on how you said you aligned the timing chain.

I still think you are after a timing issue, re-check your points as well.
Dot to dot is firing on #6 cyl. dot on top to dot on top is firing on #1.
You could be kicking back through the carb because dist is 180º out or you have a plug wire misrouted. I would not tear the engine down again based on how you said you aligned the timing chain.we hav it all on the #1 TDC the dist. is on the #1 plug and the cap is facing the #2 piston but the #1 plug is first to fire all the wires are in there right spot i lost count how many times we checked that out and we set the gear drive dot to dot and we had the motor at TDC when we instaled it!

what if we set it to fire on the #6 piston like u said dot to dot is on #6 whould that be the fix?or not?we hav it TDC on #1!

Have you pulled the dist and moved it 180º since you put it together originally?
If you haven't you are 180º out.:)

we did that yes and she was up in flames so it want that way!HAHA my eyebrows felt that one HAHA!The way we hav it it seem like she wants to go i mean it has that few rumbles then she stops! i dont get it i still think its the cam idea but i dont know for sure!

if it was me I would pull the timing cover , pull the dist and bring number 1 piston to TDC then check my cam marks ensure they are lined up to fire on the 1 drop my distributor back in making sure the rotor was on the number 1 plug wire, them rewire the distr to firing order them try it should be close. If not Pull a valve cover and get you a pull handle have one of you buddies turn it over by hand and check your rockers to make sure you have not bent a rod or stuck a valve. By chance did you pull the intake?? If so check for major Vac leaks.

anybody else have some info? :twisted: MIKE

Is it possible that the cam can be set up wrong and in this effect the exhuast valves or the intake valves from opening in the right order?would this make the car not run cuz eveything eles is all right!The motor wants to go it has them little fire points like its gonna go then it stops and its just cranking over WTF?MIKE :twisted:

Is it possible that the cam can be set up wrong and in this effect the exhuast valves or the intake valves from opening in the right order?would this make the car not run cuz eveything eles is all right!The motor wants to go it has them little fire points like its gonna go then it stops and its just cranking over WTF?MIKE :twisted:anybody know?
also whats the comp. on a 318 stock cuz i think that im kinda low the test yesterday was all at 120 on compresion!that seems to low to me i would think that i should be at 145 or 150!right?if this is right then my valvetran is set wrong which would go back to the gear drive and the cam set!right?i would thinkthat the cam is 180 off i dont know if this could happien but its a shot right?Im going to do a few more thest to see if things are right if not then sat. shes getting the tear down agian!Help me out guys this is hard stuff!Thanks
MIKE :(

318 is probably at 8.4:1 compression ratio.
120psi in all cylinders is fine.
Cannot install cam 180º out.

new prob i took the valve cover off to do one last test and i found that one of my rocker arm had blown o hole where the puch rod meets the the arm! so it blew a hole where the two meet!will this cause my motor not to run/ :? MIKE :twisted:

If the intake valve is stuck open it will, or if the exhaust valve is not opening it will cause you grief.

How much lift do you have??? Did a valve kiss a piston or did you damage it in assembly?

never mind, must be an exhaust valve not opeing or you wouldn't have 120 psi compression.

Damn Mike what have you done? Might have to pull the heads now and check the valves did you match the springs for this new cam? I think on safetys side you pull the whole top half before you mess around and bust a piston or something, check you cam specks with your springs make sure your not hitting a piston and that all the valves a moving freely. when you do that pull the intake then set you heads and turn it over by hand you can watch the cam and the dist gears all work and see if there are any obvious problems. bring number 1 TDC and the set everything up check your dots and the dist while you can see everything. just be carefull and keep everything clean get you some thinner and some rags to wipe everything down with. take your time and get a book as well.

Ok! we found out why she wont run!bent push rods all but 5!HAHA they must hav fallin out of the lifter seat when we put the rokers on therefore it rested on the lifter lip and then bend away!im getting new ones in two days from my buddies 318 and going to try her agian this time takeing are time putin gall that crap together!and someone asked for my cam specs!Mopar Purple Shaft..Adv. Duration: .260°/268°
Dur. @ .050'': 221°/228°
Lift: .430''/.450''
Centerline: 110°
Basic RPM: 1200-5200 RP
my springs are good for 500 lift plenty to play with,i hope this is the prob cuz that makes alot of sence to me that thats why shes not going!Thanks for all your help guys i had all the repls in my head all day and all last week!Thanks MIKE :twisted: let me know what u think of the new prob.

so u all know what she is if ya dont know! its a 1970 318LA!ok the heads i hav are stock 318's i broke the studs on the old exhaust manifolds so they went off to the shop! cleaned and fited with 4 new valves in the back on each side,heads have no porting done at all!there all stock!they hav new valve seats and guides the springs hav been tested and they can hold 500 lift or a little more!im not close to that with the cam!

Mike just make sure this time to pull the intake so you can see the valley and make sure that you rods are seated in the lifters. The roll i over by hand and make sure to use pre lube , oil something on the tips. Dont just drop them down the hole and think they are good, then do like i said bring the #1 up TDC and the set it up right line the dots up and everything
should look something like this.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/20045263171393855756916.jpg

Mike just make sure this time to pull the intake so you can see the valley and make sure that you rods are seated in the lifters. The roll i over by hand and make sure to use pre lube , oil something on the tips. Dont just drop them down the hole and think they are good, then do like i said bring the #1 up TDC and the set it up right line the dots up and everything
should look something like this.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/20045263171393855756916.jpgThanks chad im going to do that for sure today my dad is bringing me my buddies arms and push rod and were going to test the motor agin to see if she runs!next week my new arms,push rod and pulg wires come in the mail!so if all goes good tonight well see what else needs fixed! :twisted:

i hope you get her all fixed up!
its a shame to see a good car sit around...

Ok she still wont run!WTF!ok wev done it all to try to get her goin the timings is the biggest prob but its all lined up and working fine toghter i dont get it she fires on the #1 piston at TDC!the valves are ready to fire all good and lined up the balancers is at 0 the cap is facing the #2 piston and fires on the #1 wire all the wires are fine,so the timing must be fine we never degr. the cam but how bad can it be its max is how much off?i mean it should still run!right?dot to dot like it should be!What else can it be?the carb?it is fine too nice clear fuel spits fight on down the intake!could it be bad gas the tank is old and it was sitting at the other guys house for 10 yrs. with gas in the tank but the car drove me to school for about 3 weeks with that tank not even 6 months ago!WTF?Could it be spark?i still hav the points from the old dist. would it help me out if i got the elec kit from Mopar?the spark is good but it is kinda dull new plugs and wires also just got them!Help me out guys i dont know what to do!MIKE

well, as i just tuned my car up, and i see soooo much of a difference in her, i can vouch that plugs, wires, and generally good ignition will make the difference... as for the tank, my cousin has an 82 f-150 that he put a 351 windsor in. when he put the motor in, the truck would crank up and run for a few seconds, and die. he finally put a collector thing from a tractor (the clear catch basin that you see on the side of the motor on a tractor) inline with the fuel line before the carb to catch all the rust and stuff from the tank. it solved his problem, the gas runs clean, and the tanks must be clear.
you take what you want from what i said...
maybe it will help you out :)

i was thinking of runnig a bypass from a 5gal tank and see if that helped her out o bit but the funny thing is that she ran not to long ago with that tank just like that and the same carb WTF?she ran great too she killed my friends chebby's all the time even if she was tired!Funny stuff let me tell u!

anyone elese?

I still think it's ignition/timing prob. You need someone who knows Dodges to come over and give it another look. You may be missing something without knowing it.

I still think it's ignition/timing prob. You need someone who knows Dodges to come over and give it another look. You may be missing something without knowing it.
I agree with Sixpak. Do you have spark??? Right now if you are getting fuel to the carb then check for spark.

Do not pass go....check for spark if it ain't a nice blue/white spark or no spark then your ignition is suspect.

fuel coming out the carb check needle and seat.Is the cam u put in a soild lift cam if so recheck valve lash.a real big hyl cam can run your hyl lifters out of preload specs causing them to bottom out.u end up with a solid lifter.u should have .060 preload on a hyl lifter.seen this happen once had to shim up the rocker shafts.

well yesterday we checked my volts with a meter and we found that the coil was getting les then 2 volts!so i went down and got an MSD blaster 2 coil!checked again and now no spark!WTF? this morning i took the Ballast Resistors off and shes wasted!thats the reson i wasnt getting spark im going down later to get a new one is there one that goes with the MSD coil?i hav the biggest felling in the back of my head that shed go if i had the coversion kit!as for as the cam shes fine still not to big for my car Adv. Duration: .260°/268°
Dur. @ .050'': 221°/228°
Lift: .430''/.450''
Centerline: 110°
Basic RPM: 1200-5200 RPM i could of got bigger if i really wanted!

Are you using a point distributor still ?

I wouldnt go any bigger then the cam you have know. Spend the money on an elecronic distributor instead.

i still hav the points and there giving me nothing but shit, i just put inew points and a condencer and gaped them to 16 and now the Ballast Resistors whent out today!

Ballast res. have always been problems with mopars. Buy them 2 at a time and keep the extra in the car or go with an MSD ignition and by pass it.

Id really start saving for an electronic ignition. You can either get the MOpar kit (summit sells the same kit with their name on it cheaper) or talk to Don at FBO (Cuda66273) He can set you up wit a kit and set a distributor up for you engine.

Adam do u think that if it was bad in the first place that it was helping the car not run!it did look pretty shity siting there?now its wasted!

Adam do u think that if it was bad in the first place that it was helping the car not run!it did look pretty shity siting there?now its wasted!^^^^^ anbody?

Why not borrow one from under the hood of the 67 parked right beside your car? That would make the most sense.
I would go with the Mopar electronic kit when you can afford it(comes with new resistor)

BTT

I had a similar problem on my 78 Trailduster 400 BB. Ran fine for months after putting in the 400 then it started back firing when excelerating. It ended up where I couldn't keep running. after replacing the cam & repeatedly messing with the timing (i was getting spark too) it ended up being too wide of a gap at the pick-up in the distributor. After setting it correctly I was slinging mud without a problem. I would recommend switching to the electronic ignition too. once it's set right you don't have to mess with the points anymore.

when are you going to get a ballast resistor?? i want to here this thing run!!

when are you going to get a ballast resistor?? i want to here this thing run!!I had to go buy one the other day my new MSD soil fried the old one so i had to go get there MSD 8 OHM one,it all works now but i hav no fuel the elec pump got messed up from my crapy gas tank!

clean that tank out already, you dont want to buy a new pump and screw it up because of sediment in the tank!

If you're going to drop the tank and clean it out, you might as well put a 3/8" pickup in while you're at it :wink:

im thinking of going over to a fuel cell like my dad its what i want and its somthing im gona need in the future!

Better yet 8) :D

Better yet 8) :Dthats most likely what im gonna do!The fuel cell is somthing that iv always wanted to !

What kind of fuel cell you looking for?

wouldnt it make sense to get it running first before you worry about a fuel cell.Just me but you will spend a few hundred bucks on a fuel cell and plumbing and you still may have intenal problems with your engine. Do like you said and hot jump it from a 5 gallon bucket or something and fire it up and make sure its not the motor. then worry about the neat looking shit. Fuel cell and a rolll cage wont do anygood if the engine only runs on 3 cyl.

we did bypass the tank and it did no good nice new fuel helped nothing then my fuel pump went out cuz of all the shit in the tank!so im getting a new one soon i was going to get the 16gl and 3/8 line and all the other fittings its gonna need!im getting all new MP dist and Mopar/MSD 6AL box soon so the elec will hopefully solve the probs there nothing else that could be the prob i got my new rockers,push rods, and MSD wires in the mail yesterday im gonna put all that stuff in and start thinking about what else im gonna need!

well if you Bypassed the fuel tank and it was getting good fuel before the pump went out then sounds like you will have a car with a fuel cell that still wont run :shock: swap out the pump, bypass the tank check your basics , fuel , fire , timing if you have those right it will run. once its running then think about a fuel cell or at least drop the tank and have it perged and sealed. First i would get it running cause you never know you might have to come out of pocket for something else to make it run and you blew your cash on a fuel cell you will be pissed. :wink:

WHITEZOMBIE check your Private messages, and I hope ya get it running soon bro These kinds of problems always suck.

i just found out that my piston beat the crap out of my valves as well the cam was off 180 and all the intake vavles met the pistons,HAHAH the look good still im going to test them and see if there good still i think that my push rods took most of the force i hope!we'll see the motor is down to the short block again fo the 3rd time now i picked up a new timing cover at the Fremont Mopar ralley car show for ten bucks and some other small things to shut me up for a few weeks!

Enlighten me. How do you install a cam 180º out. The crank gear must have the dot on top. The cam gear can have the dot on top or at bottom, the only difference this will make is firing on #1 or #6.

Please tell us how this happened. :?:

Ok im not sure what to call it but here it goes!We put the cam in,followed by the gear drive,the gear drive was set up in a previous 318 motor witha diff ca,we put it the way it came out of the old motor,we put it in the car the wrong way the cam dot was on top,not right,we changed it to dot to dot!put the car back togeter and try to start her up fro weeks now,come to find that somthing is wrong,i had two sets of push rods bend on me!the second time it was time to check the heads,pulled them off to find that the intake valves hit the piston,from what iv learnd that means the cam was set wrond it we left the cam dot on the top and the crank dot on the top the cam would hav been set up the right way even thoght thats not how its needed to be,so im pulling the gear drive gear on the cam and turning it to how it needs to be and deg. the cam up right,thats my big fix that ill need to work on this week and need to se if the valves are good cuz the they still look fine i hope that the push rods took alot of the pain for them cuz ther f-ed up!

Any of the valves that hit pistons are junk. Do not try and re-use these. You also need to have a valve job done now.

Did you install a gear drive, or are you talking about a timing chain and gears. If it was the timing chain it does not matter if it is dot to dot or both dots on top. the only difference will be dist position.

I think you must of done something else, or...... dropped something down the intake.

even if it is a gear drive, setting the dot on the cam to the top or bottom would not make a difference (except for dist position) because the cam gear turns once for every two turns of the crank. Are all of the intake valves hitting or just one?

throw that damn gear drive in the junk pile and get you a Dbl Roller and be done with it. Line the damn dots up cam dot on bottom crank dot on top and be done with it. forget that fuel cell cause a good valve job and stainelss valves is gonna cost. while you got the top off check the cyl and make sure the bottom half is good if you freshen the top half and the bottom is weak your days will be numbered before you turn a main or rod bearing. Do the required stuff first and then worry about the Gee Wizz shit later. If you want to run with that RT of your old man better get it straight. Fuel cells and big wheels look cool but aint worth shit sitting in the drive way with a ragged out engine!!!

All of the intake valves hit the piston on both sides of the engine,yes im using the gear drive,it was in my dads old 318 he had when he was a kid and were putting it in my car the gear drive is no prob at all to work with its siple i dont want to run a Db roller like all of my buddies and there chebby's i want the sound that they give and the accuracy on the side to help me out and it was free u cant beat that!as for the fuel cell that was going to happin cuz my tank killed two of my pumps now and im tired of buying new ones! :evil: so i might use my dads cell and get all the little things that i need to get her goin again then buy my own cell!as for running with the R/T thats never gonna happin with my 318 my car just sounds meaner and looks meaner!i can walk my car sideways just as long as hers in the races that we use to get in,my mom is the coolest! :twisted:

OK go for what you know, but just remeber I told you so :wink:

It sounds like a bad ingition resistor to me. If it runs on the start side of the switch, and then cuts off on the run side, then your resistor is gone.

Earl

i dont know what is yet cuz now the motor is nothing but a short block but when the time comes it should be fine! :oops:

Bent valves huh? Hmmmm, I could say I told you so too, but that wouldn't make any difference now would it?

When you get it back together again... BEFORE YOU EVER HOOK UP THE BATTERY... turn the motor over a few times by hand. Preferably with the valve covers off so you can actually see the valves opening and closing. It would help to remove all the spark plugs. Make sure there is nothing binding.

Also, all the cranking you've done the last few weeks has most asuredly wiped away any moly lube you had on that brand new cam and lifters. If I were you, I would pull that cam and inspect it for scratches or scoring. Same goes for the lifters, but make sure you put them all back (with new moly lube) in the same bore they came out of.

If you didn't already know, the first 20-30 minutes the engine runs after a cam/lifter change is a CRITICAL time. This is when the lifters and cam break themselves in and start to establish a wear pattern. In an ideal situation following a cam change, the engine should fire up IMMEDIATELY and you should QUICKLY get the rpms up in the 2200-2800 range. You run it in this range varrying the rpm continuously for AT LEAST 20 minutes. Failure to do this WILL result in a cam with wiped lobes.

PLEASE learn from your previous mistakes. You obviously did not assemble things correctly last time, and you did not go back to verify your work. NEVER NEVER NEVER try to start an engine you've worked on unless you go over EVERY little detail to make sure you did the work right.

Sorry if it sounds like I'm raggin' on you man, that's not my intention. You are obviously into cars and like to do your own work. I commend you for that. But you have to realize there is more to it than just turning a wrench. I'm no mechanic by any means, and I have learned a few expensive leasons of my own. So I'm just trying to pass on my experiences and maybe it will help you out. Okay, lecture over.

sounds like good advice, I would go as fas a turning it over with the intake manifold off so you can watch the lifters, push rods and Rockers all in action prior to firing it up. Slow down take your time and for god sake invest some research time, look up what you intend to do in a book and go over it a couple of time before you tear into it.

sounds like good advice, I would go as fas a turning it over with the intake manifold off so you can watch the lifters, push rods and Rockers all in action prior to firing it up. Slow down take your time and for god sake invest some research time, look up what you intend to do in a book and go over it a couple of time before you tear into it.I was lookin into doing that to help me out with the set up right now im still setting the gear drive up with the cam my dad friend is coming over to deg. my cam and show me how to do!cuz i need to know how to do this crap when i move out and get many more mopars in my life!

good call advise is all ways welcome :D

When you are having these kind of problems you are better off having someone who knows stop by before things get too far. :)

so let us know when you have her running again. :D

Mike check this out...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33691&item=2481400581&rd=1

Ok guys hears the update! :roll: as u all know my valves had a run in with the pistons we checked and checked again and luckly there still good,the push rods took all the damage,thank god :wink:,so thats done now today we where setting the cam up the way it neede to be the first time,and we came up on a snag :roll: we put the cam gear on and we broke the milidon roller Bearings and thrust washer that come with the gear drive :evil:crap we had it set up great to! :evil: so i got down to the speed show and the kid had no clue what the hell a gear drive was so i called jegs and they hooked me up with a new Bearings kit for the gear drive :D the bad part itll be hear in 2 weeks :evil: Oh well i can wait longer,tonight im putting the heads back on and setting them up good to go,later this week im going to go get some new intake and header gaskets then im gonna get them set up agian i still need to go get a timing cover gasket and water pump gasket,then when my parts come i can bolt her up and giver her another shot! :shock:

did you take that thing apart and check it? how about the bottom half, or magnaflux the pistons? I am just going to throw this out and hope someone is telling you that " if you have damage on the lower half and you do get it fired up it is going to come apart." May not happen right when you fire it up but it will fail on the lower half, Like a craked piston or stress fracture or damage to a rod bearing which very well could have happened when the valve hit and you kept turning over for a week before you figured it out. I still think you should throw that gear drive in the garbage. You probly could have bought a chain for what you paid for the bearings, that thing is what has caused this whole mess to begin with.

well the gear drive is fine i just set the cam in the wrong way i set it 180 what my dad tells me so its my fault not the gear drive the gear drive has ran before in my car and in 3 other small blocks!we did check the pistons and there still good!they hav the smallest dings in them

If you say so, i wouldnt trust what you can see from the top. You may as well go ahead and pull the engine since you have it tore apart anyway and atleast refresh it with rings and bearings. it will cost you less in parts than that fuel cell . have the pistons checked by a machine shop then put it back together. It will be money well spent and if you dont all that money you are spending on the top half may a well be pissed in the drain.

i ll look into it,one thing is that if the motor comes out i really dont wont to put it back in im looking at a two 440s right now or ill look for a 340/360 :?

I still say a cam can't be 180º out.

Throw that gear drive in the garbage and learn something from this.
How did you check the valves?? If they hit the pistons you may as well change them now cause there going to drop into the motor when she gets some RPM.

well one thing if you run that thing the way it is you will have to got to a 440 or another small block because that one will shot

Whats the verdict on your ride? :scratch: Dead :pukel: or Alive? :cheers:

well shes got all the goods to put her back on the road,but i still waiting on a new milidon bearing that i broke so i ordered a new one its been two weeks now and still no word,Jegs still hasnt got it from milidon yet so im still waiting for that,i need to get some gaskets,and im ordering a fuel cell,pump,lines,fittings all this week so that fixes my tank probs! :cheers: after i get all the stuff needed shes gonna go back togetheri hav a buddy comin over to set the cam the right way when i get to that point agian!its goin kinda slow now but itll happin in a few more weeks now i just sit in the garage and stair at her and wish i was kickin chevy ass! :thumrigh:

Hi;
Did you say you put the distributor in at #1 with the dots lined up 6:00 / 12;00 ? If so you are 180 deg. out , the rotor should point to #6 ......bin der dun dat lots ......try it.
Chryco 8)

i now hav her set up dot to dot #1 up top and ready to go shes set right now just need that bearing to get here then my dads friend is coming over to help me set the cam and teach me how to do it the right way,other then that shes gonn run great for the mean time! :scratch:

until the first time you get on it and she sees 6500 and those pistons that you banged up come apart and then you have to go and get that 440.

Shit happiens,if she goes oh well if not great ether way some day shell hav a 440 or a stroker 416 :thumrigh:

The plan so far is to order this bearing from summit http://store.summitracing.com/ but i dont knoe if the SBC will work on a mopar????If she does then she good to go other then my fuel system that im gonna get at the same time,do any of u know if the bearing will work?Cuz that is the part that i need,that same think in the pic :bom: my dad is seing if his shop guys at work can make me a bearing like that they do that kinda stuff all the time!so if so thats money saved in my poket! :thumrigh:

Big Block, Big Block !!!!!!!!! :evil: :evil: :twisted: :twisted:

Big Block, Big Block !!!!!!!!! :evil: :evil: :twisted: :twisted:Or BIG SMALL BLOCK :twisted: :twisted: :cheers: we'll see over time and i get some more money after i just put a new lift and new D60 and D70 under my truck :roll:

Just to chime in on all the advice given so far, here's my .02

Verify your cam timing by watching that both the valves are closed on #1 cylinder when you refer the distributor being on TDC. My engine is at TDC with both the crank and the cam reference dots being on top @ 12 o'clock.

As for the pushrods bending, that's bad.... :shock: Measure pushrod lenght. 7.50" is what a stock 318 should have. I messed around with mine between milling the heads & 1.6 rockers and needed 7.23 rods.

And just a personal point of view; throw that damn points distributor in the garbage..... If your hot-rodding your car, certain things should be sh*t-canned. Drum brakes.... Bias Ply tires..... Plastic fuel filters..... Single circut brakes.....There's a reason for technology :tongue:

Good luck and PLEASE keep us posted on your progress. Even if it's a humbling situation where someone might say " I told you so", it's a lesson learned, and advice for the next guy whom might make a mistake.

Some guy like myself who's about to drop a freshly built engine in their car too! Good luck!

Well i got my new bearings and washers yesterday,today i called jegs and cancled my order for theres cuz it want gonna be here till the end of october.now i need to call summit some time and get my Cell,lines,pump,filters,fittings,and what ever else i need to do the fuel set up to the carb.i still need to get header,water pump,and intake gaskets,then i think thats it so she can runn right!Ill keep it up guys :salut:
MIKE

Hey WHITEZOMBIE I'll sell ya my brand new Jazz 16 gal fuel cell, which has never seen gas. I'll even save ya a few bucks and throw in some homemade fuel cell straps. I live in Martinez so I don't live too far from ya. I can even meet ya part way, at like Pleasanton fairgrounds or something. Let me know if your interested.
I just bought a house, so I'm trying to sell a few things I have extras on.

Well hows about a update :roll: I got all my stuff together now,im in the process of building a cage for the fuel cell an thinking of mounts for the pump an filter,still need to order Fittings an a few more flex hoses,other then that shes good to,this week end is hopefully the final set up for the damn cam,i hav it in the ball park,got a timing chain set from my dads friend to set up my cam an degree it,then pull it off,set my gear drive up to the cam,button her back up an HOPEFULLY start her up,my new 904 is in my friends shop gettign a run through,my 8 3/4 is out of my dads Duster an all painted up,i need to buy a new pinion yoke for it then put her in the car as well.then im going to cruise around with the stock tires after the cam is broke in,then we pull her in the garage to relo the springs an mini tub an get some meats under there! :cheers: Well this is the plan if all gos well this weekend or the next :afro:
MIKE

got a timing chain set from my dads friend to set up my cam an degree it,then pull it off,set my gear drive up to the cam

Huh? If you degree it with a timing chain, you can't pull the chain off and switch to the gear drive and expect the setting to hold. The whole point of degreeing is to establish a known reference between the cam and crankshaft. The top sprocket of the timing chain allows you to adjust the rotation of the cam a few degrees either direction. Your gear drive should allow the same adjustment, but you would have to through the degreeing process all over again.

Personally, I think you should set that gear drive on a shelf somewhere and forget about it. A good double roller timing chain is all you need. :thumrigh:

My dads friend he is going to degree the gear drive after we put it back on the car,so i can learn the best way to do both of them.i know it would be easy to set the thing aside,but that gear drive has been in the family for years,an now my Dart has all the hand me downs that my dad has givin me from his Duster so id like it to be the same but in Dart form

Okay Mike, sounds like you got a plan. :salut: Good luck getting her running. 8)

I would leave the gear drive off as well, remember, you're dad pitched it once already :wink:

I would leave the gear drive off as well, remember, you're dad pitched it once already :wink:my dads work had the same bearing that i needed for the gear drive,so he got me 20 of them just to start off with,so i hav plenty to play around with,an its easy to set it up now that we know how easy it is to pinch the bearings :bounce:

Is this thing running yet??

Not yet its still in her state of sleep,the rain has been killin me i cant open my hood or im screwed,my dad just got a SRT-4 so wev been messin with that an all his early X mas stuff,turbo,BV valve,timers an all kkinds of good stuff,so the cars on hold till it stops raining,they said it should clear up in a week or so,then im on it like flys on.....

good luck. If that doesnt work for you I know where you can get a good running 318 for $300. May be easier

Well shes almost done an ready to hit the road,FINALLY,i worked my a$$ off today get her all put back together,all the way from a short block to a complete,coolant filled engine bay,Im getting a Plasma cutter from my buddy so i can work on my trunk hole for my drop cage im making for my 16G fuel cell,run the lines an get a few small fittings here an there an then VRRRRROOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! she should fire righ up,my good tranny is at my buddies shop,to get a full tear down a run throght its been a long time since its been in a car.After shes running an abile to mover her own ass around,i going to put in my dads 8 3/4 in,then start kickin some Butt agian on the road agian!!!!I cant wait ill keep ya all posted on the fire up! :thumrigh:
MIKE

We can hardly wait! :D Sounds like you're really close. So did you spin the motor over by hand a couple times just to make sure everything is assembled correctly? It sure would suck to have to tear into that thing again.

yup i checked it like 50 million times,im getting tiered of tearing it all apart

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: WOW!!!n shes awake ya,an my god thats the loudest car iv ever been around in a long long long time,she fired up of the first shot!what a champ :cheers: she was hovin some carb probs,going to run a 600 DP sunday,to see if it fixes it,but man shes a screamer :shaking: :shaking: :shaking: mt head is still jacked up :shaking: :shaking: good times,mabey this week ill finally order my demon carb,well see,anyways thanks for all your help an support guys!it means alot to me,now need to make my trunk floor an get the 245's on an shes out to the muffler shop then to the streets to kill again! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: THANKS TO ALL
MI :twisted: KE

Well it's about time!!!! :mrgreen: :thumleft:

Glad to hear you got her running again.
:salut:

Congratulations !!!!!!!!!!!! :wav: I hope you enjoy many trouble-free miles of cruising :thumrigh:

congrats its about time

Hey Chad, Long time no see !

time slips. pics. movies.
we need some documents :)

My buddy got some of it on video yesterday when it was running kinda crappy,but it was running fine when i closed the coke :scratch: it seems tolike that alot but if u let it go she stars to surge! :scratch:

Somewhere in this thread I noticed someone said the timing marks should be cam sprocket on top and crank sprocket should both be on top.
Both of my manuals ( Haynes 71-89 Repair manual and How to Hot Rod SB Mopar's ) say that the marks should align cam on bottom and crank on top. Are these manuals wrong? When I degree'd the cam it was right on the money. If the books are wrong let me know as the engine is still on the stand with the head off, and should be an easy fix. BTW it's a '71 360 engine.

Just noticed later in the thread that the dots on top or bottom doesn't matter as long as the crank dot is on top and the cam dot is aligned on top or bottom and this only affects distributor placement. Whew, this really makes me realize that I've been away from engine basics WAY to long. Last engine I built was a 455 Pontiac for my '69 GTO way back in '85. Gee, I'm glad I got back into this hobbie. :thumrigh:

NO the books are right. Cam gear pointing down and crank gear pointing up.

:cheers: She firerd right up an idled great no probs,the new 650 Demon has me one happy camper,the reg. is set at 6psi an does she ever run like puring kittin well one crazy ass Lion,this is by far the best running motor ive ever been around,i never though that i would hav gotin it all right this time.She right on tap,u hit that throttle an shes right on tap no probs what so ever,this is one healty motor,an shes pissed an ready to hit the streets in a few weeks,she ready to prow the streets agian :twisted: :twisted: i wish u guys all could of been there to hear her run :thumrigh: An THANK YOU EVERYONE WHO HAS PUT AN EFFORT OUT TO HELP ME OUT IT MEANS ALOT TO ME :thumrigh: my buddy is a computer an photo/video master hes goining to help me out get some clips of her running uncapped for all of yur ears to bleed to :twisted: cant wait to put the muffs on so i can hear that gear drive pissin away :thumleft: cantwait

THANKS AGIAN GUY YOUVE ALL BEEN A BIG HELP TO ME AN THE ZOMBIE
MIKE :twisted:

If your SURE the timing is right, make sure you don't have some crappy rubber fuel lines that have collapsed. This happened to a friend of mine and it belched fuel every time. It was seending chunks of rubber into the carb. The car would only fire for a few seconds and then die.

nope shes all fine now all new 12 alum line with -8an fittings all the way to the carb,i didnt want mess around with all that rubber crud

So where's the vid, or at least a sound clip? We want to hear that thing!

Workin on it right now just got a good clip of her runnin today,an man on the suroundsound shes a beast :twisted:

Make sure she's getting fuel.
I had a brand new fuel pump on one of my small block rebuilds and it failed!
We could never figure out why it wouldn't light....then I realized, it wasn't getting any fuel in the carb.... Come to find out, the new fuel pump wasn't pumping...

Not wanting to read all 7 pages, what was wrong? Miloden timing set dot to wrong dot or bad fuel flow?

i installed a new cam an gear drive but had no clue how to degere the cam an she was 180 off an my valves kicked my pistons butt, all better now ive now done 3 cam installs on other cars an they all had great outcomes,the car is running now with just all the little odd ends here an there,upgrading to a new throttle this weeked so i can junk the crap i have now.shes running great now with no probs,an shes hella nasty with the moroso mufflers under her belly
MIKE

Have you pulled the dist and moved it 180º since you put it together originally?
If you haven't you are 180º out.:)

Ditto

DittoYup did all the right things this time i pulled athe motor for other resones an tore the front end apart an did it the right way,shes all good an running like a bat out hell,i have her almost complete an ready to kill agian,but man she flys down the street i brought her up to around 31-3200 an launched an HOLLY HELL SHES GOT ALL NASTY,spun the tires all the way to 65 hitting all gears as hard as i could trying the new pistol grip out an it passes with flying colors,now i need to get some new shoes for her the 255's just dont cut it with the 3800 stall an the 4.56's
:bootysha:
MIKE

video! or soundfile!

My buddy had both of her but he erased them so he could go to a motocross race!ill try to get more made up soon

Balast Resistor, have you replaced that? It happened to me last Winter, little white piece of ceramic made me get new plugs, wires, dist. cap, electronic ignition, and the damn thing cost 5$. I didn't read all the posts so I'm not sure if anyone else proposed this (probably did, or you've probably checked yourself) but there's my experience.

Well, being the smart kid I am (give me a break I haven't graduated HS yet) I read a few of the latest posts right after posting this, and it looks like the problem is solved. So nevermind.

Put your finger in No. 1 hole with spark plug out. Turn engine over and stop when you feel the highest compression. Then check for position of the rotor. You may have to take all the other plugs out to turn the engine to turn the engine manually. Also check the rocker arm positions relating to NO. 1, the valves should be closed. Ive also found sediment in the check valve of the carb, allowing the fuel bowl to fill very slowly, causing the engine to run for a short period of time. I'm assuming you have verified that you have "spark". I always rely on starting fluid to verify whether it is spark or gas causing the problem. Howco4

Thanks guys,the car is up an running great right now this week end im putting in all my MSD stuff an pluging in my new G tech tuner,last week end she did a 13.61 at 103.03 in the 1/4 no tracktion,a 0-60 in 4.6 sec, 1/8 mile in 8.45 at 93.23mpg,i left at about 3200 shift at 5800 an she spun all of first an up to 60-65 in second a spun hard for a good 10 feet into 3rd,with the new 8 3/4 an the spool an the 4.56's an that built 727 shes a killer for being only a 318,as soon as i get the msd id like to cut that time way down,an put my new tires on to give her the meat that she needs to haul ass
MIKE

I would find out from Milodon where the marks are supposed to line up, then check to see if you are correct. It sounds as if they have the dots both straight up, it will act weird and fart and puke, as some cylinders will fire, and others will be late/early. If you have the marks correct, the only issue can be TDC, (is it on compression: both valves closed) or firing order. Make sure the rotor is going the way you wired it, Big Blocks turn the opposite of Small Blocks because of the distributor being in the front.

From the sounds of your description you have a real screamer on your hands,What kind of car is it anyway.I can't seem to tell by the pic in your sig.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/451000-451999/451310_384_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/451000-451999/451310_278_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/451000-451999/451310_385_full.jpg
i drive a 72 Dart with a 318 360 heads,mild cam,gear drive,headersdemon 650 all elec front.fan water,hurst build 727 built in 91 with all the goods 3800 stall,a nice little rearend with moser 35 spline axles,spool,a 4.56's,with a 255 tire right now that sucks hard core,but still building the car to house some new meats 325/50s

Damn Dude!!! You got 4:56's in that thing.I bet it hauls the mail from stop light to stop light.Looks like a nice little dart.I lo0ve the centerlines on it.I plan on building a 360 for my cuda this winter.Hope i don't run into any problems with it being my first real engine build.You ever run that thing down the 1/4 mile before.

On a different note.With you being from cali. Have you ever met a guy from scatpack.com called MadMarc???Last i heard he was driving a red stratus.

13.51 at 103.75 in the 1/4 nothin but tire spin all the way to 85-90 last night, with my buddies 68 406 tempest he runs a 13.11 with tire spin too,we raced with are G tech tuner that plugs into yur cig lighter an tells u all the goods yur car does an makes,HP,TQ,0-60,1/8,1/4,G pull,60-0 breaking,an it holds up to 30 hours of time,an its damn acuarate my dad took it out to sac a few weeks ago an he ran 13.62 in his SRT-4 an the G tech said he ran the same time at the same speed!so ya id say it works hella good,my car made 288HP an 337tq to the ground an my buddy made 412hp an 474tq with his big block pontiac,his car is a TQ monster witha a 0-60 at 4.71, an his 1/8 mile is 8.74,my car 0-60 was 4.5,an 1/8 was 8.21,his car pulls hella hard on top end an pulls me buy half car but last night he had me buy a tire length!pretty cool little 318 i think
MIKE

Ya i've heard those g-tech units are pretty good.I might have to get me one of those sometime.

that is pretty good performance considering your poor traction!

your distributor is probably 180 degrees out pull the distributor out turn it 180 degrees and put back in had that problem before

You said it starts then runs for a few seconds then dies...The ballast resistor is bypassed during starting- so the coil will have full battery voltage, (12v +/-). When you let go of the key, the ignition switch springs back a few degrees and re-routs the ignition power thru the ballast resistor. This is to help start the engine with max spark then back off to about 9 volts so the coil won't over heat during drive mode. Maybe the resistor is burned, not matched to your coil or the "run" wiring circuit is faulty. You might try watching the timing advance (with a light) while someone else starts the car. See how much the spark advance changes from cranking to running. Also the suggestions about fuel filter, pump and dirt in the carb are good advice to check up on. As far as the timing swaping to 180 out... look for arcing inside the cap or plug wires cross-firing thru the insulation. Recheck the direction of rotation and wire sequence, IIRC 5&7 are easy to mix up and they will fight each other. Last resort...get it to a sympathetic tuneup guy and beg for help.

I had a problem like that years ago. Are your crank and cam gears new? Are they solid? The old style cam gear has a nylon gear ring and if broken will slip on the inner ring and take your cam - crank timing out. Just a thought.

Here's a few thoughts...
1 Big and small block distributers rotate in oposite directions..check yours. When turning backwards a couple of cylinders might fire and produce some of the symptoms you have mentioned.
2 Even though you replaced the fuel filter it may be partially clogged again from the few weeks you drove with it. Does your carb lso have an internal filter/screen?
3 It is rare but possible that the cam was not properly ground or not the correct # for your engine. This could account for the low compression, back-firing and failure to run.
4 To bypass some ignition issues, you might try a hotwire from the coil directly to the + on the battery.
**DON'T RUN THIS WAY for more than a minute or two or you might burnout your coil. **
5 Check that you have a good engine to ground connection and crazy as it sounds- confirm that your battery or coil is not connected backwards.
6 The woodruff key on the crank or cam may have sheared or be missing causing the cam and crank to be out of phase or shifting. Try to cranking the engine by hand or by the starter in "ticks" with the valve covers and dist. cap removed. Observe the valve rocker functions and confirm their proper ordre & functioning while noting the ignition rotor position.
7. Last resort- you could take it to a shop (or call a mobile mechanic) and ask for a diagnosis and/or repair.
M