Asking for more input. Again.

First I want to say thanks for all your input on the first car I was looking at. Now I found another one and just wanted to see what you guys/gals thought.

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1211296268.html

http://cudaworld.com/adDetail.php?cat_id=5&sub_id=0&ad_id=2192


He is going to send me some more pictures tonight, so I'll post those tommorow. I know he says "No Rust" I guess the pictures will tell. What would you pay for this car?

Damn, too bad it's not closer to Denver. If it was I'd go check it out for you.

Jim

These are the pictures he sent. I'll have to ask for more I guess.

If I offered him $1000, do you think that is too much?

I think $1000 is too little! Seems to be in decent shape!

looks awful good from the pics there...your offer looks a little low....

For as little as you can tell by these photos it looks pretty nice. If it has been a Colorado car all it's life it should have minimal rust. $1000 might be low but it never hurts to start low........

So if a $1000 is too low, how much is too much. Or is he in the ballpark asking $3000.

Anybody notice that the Craigslist ad and the CudaWorld ad have the car listed in different locations (440 miles apart). Does anybody live near either one? Wray, CO or Cedaredge, CO.

if it is a running driving car, looking at the pics 3000.00 isn't bad. if you can get it for say 2000.00 then you did real good. so what was his reaction to the 1000.00? how about some underhood shots? fender tag there? is 3000.00 with the original engine included as well?

So far he has only sent me the pics. Nothing else. He hasn't called yet and I don't have his #. I did send him an email asking if the price was $3000 OBO or $3000 firm. To answer your other questions: I have No Idea if it runs or not, or if the fender tag is still there.

Also none of the pics show the pass. side behind the door.

humm??? well all you can do is wait...looks like the car has been stored somewhere for awhile judgeing by the dust and webs. could be a great find for you......keep us informed

Also none of the pics show the pass. side behind the door.

true but the rear looks straight so if there is something there it may be small...

I wish he would have sent more pics. Over 900 miles oneway is a long way to go, especially if it is for nothing. He also hasn't been the quickest to respond, but I'm also Impatient.

I'd sure like to have a better pic of the rocker mouldings on that car.
The aluminum overlays are missing from the instrument panel. Looks like everything else is there. It's 2500 of my money any day.

if it is a running driving car, looking at the pics 3000.00 isn't bad. if you can get it for say 2000.00 then you did real good. so what was his reaction to the 1000.00? how about some underhood shots? fender tag there? is 3000.00 with the original engine included as well?

Will sell original 273 engine with car Both engines need rebuilt Well, from this, I would say that it does not run, or if it does, it needs to be fixed before it's driven daily

I agree, $2500 and the original engine should be fair. I would want to see pictures of the areas that he says "needs bodywork". Windshield is cracked pretty bad, but dash is in good shape for a 67 (one year only pad).

It really chaps my ass when people are trying to sell a car and they can't even take an hour and clean the damn thing up. That interior would look a whole lot better with about half a bottle of cleaner and a good cleaning. And take some good pictures.

OK, sorry, rant off now. Good luck!

looks good, but it looks like a lil bit of pant bubble on the hood in the pic. 2500

I wish he would have sent more pics. Over 900 miles oneway is a long way to go, especially if it is for nothing. He also hasn't been the quickest to respond, but I'm also Impatient.

at least it is drivable to see it. i get a little impatient as well if it is something i think i can get. just hang in there next time tell him to send pics of everything in one shot. weekend is coming up maybe a road trip is in the works ???? good luck!!!

It really chaps my ass when people are trying to sell a car and they can't even take an hour and clean the damn thing up. That interior would look a whole lot better with about half a bottle of cleaner and a good cleaning. And take some good pictures.

OK, sorry, rant off now. Good luck!

Shhh, the seller doesn't need to know about washing the money out of it.

I finally talked to him. 1st the reason it is listed in 2 locations is that he lives in one and the car is at his parents farm. The car has a clean title, fender tag, and has been owned by the family since the early 70's. The car has been parked for about the last 10 yrs. He drove it in high school the 273 quit so he put a 318 in it until it started to quit then he parked it. Both engines come with the car. He said the only thing not original on the car is the radio. The pass. side door had a dent in it but his grandpa "fixed it" x number of years ago. He said that any rust on the car is surface rust only. He also said the $2500 was reasonable enough, and that he would take into account how far I had to drive (meaning that he might come down some more).

"It really chaps my ass when people are trying to sell a car and they can't even take an hour and clean the damn thing up. That interior would look a whole lot better with about half a bottle of cleaner and a good cleaning. And take some good pictures." BrainT




Those are the first words out of my mouth when I saw it. Then he sent me the interior pics and it only got worse. Do I take a leap of faith and go look at it with what I know or do i ask for more pictures first?

i would go and look at it. make a day of it with the intentions of buying it. as slow as he seems to be with responces it would be quicker to just go see it rather than waiting for more pics. i think if you get there you could get it for 2000.00. haveing both engins is a plus. if half of what he said is true then the 273 will match the vin of the car. if it does then you can at least belive that much more of the story. just my .02 cents

He is solid at $2500.

If you dont buy it please let me know.
I've been helping a relative with a no start problem , 91 Ford Explorer. He has fell in love with my car. I told him about this twin in Colarado for 25 hun and he says, "Lets ride".

look underneath as it has sunk into the mud from sitting. if it is solid underneath (frame rails, floor and trunk) and the 273 is there as a matching original engine then you better think about getting it.........soon!

If it is as solid as it looks then the price is very fair and I would not wait.....

Colorado - NO RUST. Rrrrriiiiiggghhhtttt.

fastmopar

I'll more than likely be picking it up on Sunday. Where do I look on the engine to make sure the numbers match?

I searched, maybe not hard, but I did search before asking. Which engine would be best/cheapest to rebuild (273 or 318 ) ? Or is it just a matter of original vs. NOS.

Colorado - NO RUST. Rrrrriiiiiggghhhtttt.

fastmopar


thats what i thought lol. looking at the drives side in the fenderwell area looks to be a bit more than just surface rust so really check out the underside good.

if it is like most small blocks the numbers you will be lookin for will be on the passenger side along the bottom of the block near the oil pan. it will be in a flat section. numbers will be stamped in. i could be wrong on this though seeing as it is a 67. it might be in a different place. someone else can chime in on this. as far as what engine to build? well i would do the 318 for now seeing it is more cubes and probable alittle easier to get performance parts for. the 273 i would keep as a numbers matching set to the car. rebuild when ever or store it away for future sale.

How much Rust is too much before this doesn't become a good deal any more?

7demon2 I was thinking along the same lines. Build the 318 now and save the 273 for later.

it would have to be pretty bad underneath to be a bad deal. again as long as the frame rails are solid, that is the real key. floor pans can be replaced, trunk pans can be replace. look along the cowl as well seeing as it has been sitting under that tree. cowl area could be rusted through. if it truns out the frame rails are soild and the only damage is the floors or trunk use this as a bargining chip.

another place to look also is the underside of the package tray. like demon said aslong as the rails are solid try using all these things as barganing chips. finding replacement panels is the easy part.

Major rust or bend issues in the frame rails where the rear springs mount, center member where the torsion bars mount, and the upper arm mounts are more difficult to repair. Anything else can be repaired or replaced much easier.
The first place I look at are where the inner fender is sandwiched against the shock support. If those humps are rusted through I can expect front splash shields and the trunk extensions to be rusted before I look. These may be just replacable sheetmetal pieces but its cancer none the less and will need repair eventually. Bottoms of the doors get a glance. Look for yesterdays broken glass clogging the drain openings. That doesn't definately say the door has been wrecked, just a prompt to look closer for bondo in the doors and fenders.If the bucket seat tracks are rusted you can guess the floor pans are too.
I suppose I said "A solid foundation is the key" in 1000 words or less. LOL
As far as the engines... I wouldn't haul the 273 home for it. If it was a complete Commando engine I would want all those goodies off of it. A 318 that was built for unleaded fuel is a better choise in my opinion.
PS I want a set of those rocker mouldings !

RedFish, why wouldn't you haul the 273 home? Just curious. If everything goes according to plan I will be using my buddies truck (Diesel with a flatbed) so i more than likely will bring it.

i think he was being a little sarcastic! he would take it!

A 40+ year old worn out , solid lift , leaded gas , 273 would be just more weight to haul and handle. In the end it would be laying under foot here somewhere. I want one or the other and the 318 would be my choise.

Thanks for all the input. I made a list of things to look for and to ask. Now I just need to get everything in order so I can make the Drive.

$2500 is a good deal for that car if it looks as good as the pics.

So it's Monday and no I haven't went and got/seen it. He called me Friday night and said he couldn't make it to his parents this weekend. So I'm heading down on Thursday to look at it.

Tom Petty said "The waiting is the hardest part".
Thanks for keeping us posted.

Now That I have had time to think about it, I keep getting the feeling that I'm in over my head. I HATE WAITING!!!

that is part of the excitment! the peaks and valleys. you'll be ok, remember you are just there to look in the beginning. if it is what you want you will get it.

Now That I have had time to think about it, I keep getting the feeling that I'm in over my head. I HATE WAITING!!!

The good thing about waiting is that it won't be an impulse buy. Go in with a clear head and be willing to walk away if it not what you want.

I just can't get into the mindset: "That I just drove 900 miles oneway and spent $500 in gas, so I should buy it".

Go get it. That car looks really good for $2,500.

I just can't get into the mindset: "That I just drove 900 miles oneway and spent $500 in gas, so I should buy it".

That is quite a haul just to kick tires and look under the hood. I guess you really do need to make a commitment to make that drive!

BTW - its nice to see another Montana member on the board

Have you tried anything local?

Go to the local car shows and talk to the mopar guys... they most likely know or have a old mopar waiting to by saved.

You gotta want it bad enough. I honestly hope you do buy it. It would be a 2800 mile trip for me one way. Not a road trip I would enjoy before mid September.

Have you tried anything local?

Go to the local car shows and talk to the mopar guys... they most likely know or have a old mopar waiting to by saved.


I talked to the only "Mopar Man" that I know and he hasn't seen any notches for a while, but he said he would let me know if one turned up.

I got an email from the seller today and he can't meet me down there, but he left the title with his Dad. He inspected the trunk, floor, frame rails and quarters. Trunk and floors= no rust Frame rails and quarters= surface rust.

I got an email from the seller today and he can't meet me down there, but he left the title with his Dad. He inspected the trunk, floor, frame rails and quarters. Trunk and floors= no rust Frame rails and quarters= surface rust.

that is very good news!

I talked to the only "Mopar Man" that I know and he hasn't seen any notches for a while, but he said he would let me know if one turned up.

I know how you feel, Montana is a little thin on Mopars and "Mopar Guys". I live in a realively decent sized town by Montana standards (8500 people) and the one other guy that I would have considerd a real Mopar guy moved away several years ago. There are only 2 or 3 Mopar daily drivers that I can think of and maybe a handfull more that show up for car shows or the occasional cruise. The last notchback I saw in town (or Montana for that matter) was over 9 years ago when I first moved to Livingston. Yah, they're out there I suppose, but few and far between.

Maybe a FABO member who lives near Denver might be willing to go inspect the car for you before you make a trip yourself.

I'm biting the bullet. Me and my buddy are heading down there tomorrow, leaving about 6:00 am. I know what you're saying about MT not having any Mopars. I live just outside of Great Falls and maybe see 3 nice Mopars a year.

I'm biting the bullet. Me and my buddy are heading down there tomorrow, leaving about 6:00 am. I know what you're saying about MT not having any Mopars. I live just outside of Great Falls and maybe see 3 nice Mopars a year.

Oh in that case go get it!

Have a safe trip!

I bought it. It's a bit more rough than I wanted, but the only rust is in the Rear Quarters. It is rusted through. Floors, frame rails, and the trunk are all good. Tonight I ripped out the carpet just to check and they looked good. About the rough part though, It has dents everywhere (Atleast that's how it seems) The drivers door and upper rear quarter has bondo other than that the drivers side looks straight. The pass. side has one big dent and some smaller ones. I'll post pics later,I'm too tired right now, about 1900 miles in 2 days is rough.

P.S. NOW I start in on the REAL questions.

I offer a humble and huge THANKS to everyone who helped.

glad you got it! now we need details and pictures! get some sleep we will be waiting....:worthles:

Glad you got it!

Don't worry about the rust and dents... they can be fixed. Just take a look at this and see how they fixed dents and repaired rust.

http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/baracuda-02.html

I'm surprised no one asked whats the deal with the car sitting next to it at the farm?

I'm surprised no one asked whats the deal with the car sitting next to it at the farm?



I was suprised too. Where should I post all my questions? I have about 100 of them covering various areas of the car. I have looked a little in throughout the forums. Should I post them in there appropriate forums or just blast away in the Cascade Regional.

approiate fourms will get better results...