727 governor

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famous bob

mopar misfit
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any one know, what governor parts will make a 727 up shift at wot-5800 rpm ? or are there such animals ? would have to shift normally on the street. ??????:
 
any one know, what governor parts will make a 727 up shift at wot-5800 rpm ? or are there such animals ? would have to shift normally on the street. ??????:
Check out a&a transmissions
 
^^^^^ Mikebee is correct you can get governor parts from A&A for different up-shifts. Throttle pressure does the job for normal driving keeping it street friendly.
 
Ordered myself a set of 5400 weights yesterday from A&A. You can fine tune the shift points with the throttle valve (kickdown) adjustment and pump press adjustment on the valve body, and you can change the 1-2 shift valve spring so the 1-2 shift matches the 2-3 shift. If you google it there are several articles.
 
Ordered myself a set of 5400 weights yesterday from A&A. You can fine tune the shift points with the throttle valve (kickdown) adjustment and pump press adjustment on the valve body, and you can change the 1-2 shift valve spring so the 1-2 shift matches the 2-3 shift. If you google it there are several articles.
the 6000 gov. looks interesting !
 
I put in the 5400 rpm governor when I rebuilt my 727. (Wish I went went with the 6,000 instead)

They are easy to install when doing a rebuild, and takes a little time to fine tune the shifts.
 
Ordered myself a set of 5400 weights yesterday from A&A. You can fine tune the shift points with the throttle valve (kickdown) adjustment and pump press adjustment on the valve body, and you can change the 1-2 shift valve spring so the 1-2 shift matches the 2-3 shift. If you google it there are several articles.

If you order from A&A, they will let you try a few springs to get it set, just return what you don't use.
 
If you order from A&A, they will let you try a few springs to get it set, just return what you don't use.
good info. I had a my ex partners son build my 727. It acts like its not even using low gear, as far as feeling it shift to second. It shifts to 3rd at about where a stocker would hit second, "20 ft?". total new rebuild bumper to bumper, still working bugs out. supposed to be a fully auto. w/ manual shift for the dragstrip , w/ low band apply . sure not interested in laying under the dam car anymore. hard to set the aftermarket shift linkage by my self, need to re check it.-----all advise welcome.
 
good info. I had a my ex partners son build my 727. It acts like its not even using low gear, as far as feeling it shift to second. It shifts to 3rd at about where a stocker would hit second, "20 ft?". total new rebuild bumper to bumper, still working bugs out. supposed to be a fully auto. w/ manual shift for the dragstrip , w/ low band apply . sure not interested in laying under the dam car anymore. hard to set the aftermarket shift linkage by my self, need to re check it.-----all advise welcome.

Get in the factory service manual and check the throttle valve linkage from the carb to the accelerator lever on the transmission. That can affect where it shifts during regular driving.
 
Get in the factory service manual and check the throttle valve linkage from the carb to the accelerator lever on the transmission. That can affect where it shifts during regular driving.
all aftermarket, no room for any stock stuff.
 
I'm trying to raise the shift RPM on my 727 Dart. Has an RV TRANNY, shifts at 4100! LOL. Anyone know how much lighter the inner weight needs to be, to help it shift around 5200? I have it apart, and just thought I would lighten the inner weight, and put in a lighter spring. Both of those changes are supposed to raise shift RPM.
 
I can always drill the 3/8 hole on top of the inner weight to lighten it. Just dont know how far to drill.
 
For comparison sake, here is a late 70s big block station wagon weight disassembled next to an a&a 5400. There are many differences. I would say save yourself the aggravation and just buy the weight from a&a. Don't be afraid to go to 5600 or 5800, remember that you can fine tune the points downward a little be backing off on the tv linkage. The stock one is on the left.

IMG_20170318_121408.jpg


IMG_20170318_121344.jpg


IMG_20170318_121353.jpg


IMG_20170318_121359.jpg
 
I can always drill the 3/8 hole on top of the inner weight to lighten it. Just dont know how far to drill.

Unfortunately it's a trial and error thing when lightening the weights yourself.
BTW a stiffer spring makes later shifts.
We used to cut another spring in half and screw it into the stock spring.
Then the weight came up against that extra half of a spring, and the shifts got later in the RPM's.
 
I ordered a 5400 RPM KIT from A&A yesterday. Didnt want to have to keep removing the tailhousing each time I wanted to make a change. LOL. THANKS FOR THE PICS! Now I know what to expect.
 
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