Recent content by 387dart

what headers are you going with - TTi make a 1 3/4" non-step type that would work well.

Be safe - buy a new custom cam that is specific to that engine build and new lifters. used lifters may hang up in a different block for any number of reasons - be safe, not sorry.

you should try and maintain ±.015 between the rockers and holdowns. Too tight and you will get gaulling on the sides as metals expand.

got this thing off the engine stand and with the help of a couple of friends dropped it in my 68 Dart. yes there is work left to do before "fire in the hole", but its still a whole lot better than hanging on the stand.:cheers:

TTI now make a none step 1 3/4" for A-bodies. There not listed on the web site - you need to phone. They may not fit early A-bodies.?? I have the 1 3/4" for W5 heads - they are sweet. TTi has even made a little more room to make removal of the started a breeze.

Do yourself a favour. Based on the climate we both live in, get the RPM Performer or an LD340 if you can find one. The Airgap is a good intake but takes way too long to get some heat to the carb so it will idle - least that is my experience.

I don't have the flow numbers but I changed from my home ported 596s to Eddy magnums which also upped the compression 1.5points and gained nothing at the track - except a lighter wallet. There a good head.

the 596s are a good late model 360 head - put a 2.00 intake (cutback 2.02)and a 1.60 exh valve with a bowl hog and blend and some cleanup of the runners - they will work better than any J or X.

it also avoids the possibility when shifting of going from 2nd-3rd and accidentally going to neutral. In a reverse pattern 3rd is farthest from neutral - ie neutral-1st-2nd-3rd. I like mine as its like driving a standard without the clutching.

www.4secondsflat.co sells racer brown RR with aluminum spacers - no more nylon. They are as good as Crane golds and you can get them in 1.6/1.5 combo ratios for a little more lift and torque.

Amazing - me thinks the only one breaking it off is TTi.

If a cast crank the parting line on the counterweights will only be ±1/8". On a forged crank the parting line will be ±3/4" wide. Also if you strike a counterweight on a forged crank with a hammer it will have a "ting" sound to it vs a cast crank will be more like a "tong". Hope this helps.

Ask them how its done at their location.