Recent content by AndyF

I sold the car shortly after I finished the project. The guy who bought got a killer deal. The ignition stuff required designing new products. Nobody was selling a cam trigger for Mopar engines at that time so I had to design one. Same with the crank trigger and the resulting brackets and mating...

The Dustbin Duster articles are still available on the Hot Rod website but the links to them keep getting moved so I put copies on my website in the Tech section. This link should get you to all of the Dustbin articles as well as some other magazine articles that I worked on: Tech Articles | AR...

I saw the new forum and decided to post a few pictures and links to the Dustbin Duster project that I did for Car Craft a few years back. This was a fairly well financed project so the car got a full Holley Dominator setup complete with a Wilson Manifolds modified intake. Sequential injection...

For that type of engine with those cylinder heads I would typically program a computer ignition system to have 20 degrees at idle, 34 at WOT and 40 at cruise or high vacuum. Then smooth out the areas in between. I'm not sure if you're AFR is rich everywhere or just at idle. Hard to tell by...

Good luck, hopefully that is a good block. You'll know once you tear it all apart. Have fun with the project, I'm sure you're going to learn a lot.

A 400 has even better numbers on paper with a bigger bore and more displacement.

I worked on Tim's road race Valiant project for a few years. We weighed everything.

Here is the setup in my Coronet. This is with a smaller Corvette Type II ps pump.

The #1 pipe makes a sharp turn and heads backwards so I don't think it would hit the PS pump. You could also switch to a smaller aftermarket PS pump if that is the problem.

I used a big Cordoba radiator and shroud in my Duster. I also used a big fluid clutch type of fan. I had to move some sheet metal around to get it all to fit but it was worth it.

I'm not sure if K1 is still making that crank or not but I wouldn't have any problem buying a K1 crank as long as it looks good. Just check it over for any damage to the journals. Half price is a good deal. You should never lose money on that deal as long as the crank isn't damaged. The 2.200...

I had two stock block 470 dyno engines. One of them went over 100 pulls on the dyno and the screen in the oil filter was clean every pull. I sold that engine to a racer and I've never heard what happened to it. The other 470 made a bunch of pulls then lost a little power at the end. The screen...

Maybe if a person already has a pile of good parts. If a person is starting with no good parts then a B1 engine is going to require at least $20,000 if not more. I just built a stock block Ford 521 that made 880 hp and it cost a little over $20K. The big Ford block will handle 900 hp but Mopar...

They look cool. I'd like to get a set in my hands so I can see how well they fit.

Which 4.150 crank is it? If it is a good crank and you can get it cheap then it might be a decent deal. If it was me I'd only buy a 4.150 crank if it had the 2.200 journals. I'd also prefer a 6 bolt crank and a high quality mfg. If the crank you are looking at doesn't meet those specs then...