Recent content by carpart67

I am offering a 1967 fastback Plymouth Barracuda. 30,596 miles on the odometer. 273 Commando (4bbl, solid lift cam) V8 engine with dual exhaust. B and M shifter controlling a 3 speed auto. Power steering with manual drum brakes (new shoes and wheel cylinders on all corners last summer). Red...

Can anyone tell me the part number for the axle seals of a 1967 7 1/4" rear end? It has the retaining bolts on the end, not c clips. Is National 484058 correct? or Centric 41763016? I know that if I can't give them the number at the parts store it's unlikely they will find it. Thanks

I'm trying to give my car a budget tune up and enjoy a few drives with whats left of summer. I've been reading/researching and have determined that hooking my vacuum advance to a manifold source is probably the best way to go for my application. Oddly enough what should be the manifold vacuum...

Alrighty, I think I may be alright after all. The voltage of the battery before the car was started and after sitting all night was 12.64 volts. Immediately after starting the car it was charging at 14.9 volts, and wouldn't go higher than 15 with increased RPM After the car is warm the...

Head unit is removed at this time. I do have an amp, but I assumed it would draw little current without being activated by the remote signal from the stereo. I'll remove the fuse just to be sure. Thanks. (BTW Redfish the new fuel gauge setup works, thanks!) I'll make myself a set of...

What is a good way to test the voltage drop across the various points of the hot side? Back probe the connectors? I don't have proper backprobes, but I've always found paperclips to work well. Is there a better way to do it? I got mixed results today. I'm going to start fresh...

Load tested the battery, it tested OK. I tried some some tests today and got very inconsistent results. I have a brand new multimeter and brand new volt gauge and at one point I even had 2 different readings between the 2 instruments. I assume one must be a dud. I'm pretty frustrated...

So is it safe to run the car like this? Or should I only run the car and test in short intervals? Thanks for the information, it's very helpful.

15 volts at high idle. Is it safe to run the car like this to perform testing? I did a few tests but didn't want to run the car very long. Additional ground to regulator does nothing. With the car off I checked resistance across the wire from the alt to the regulator, almost none...

Maybe I'm alright. I haven't road tested the car yet, it's showing aprox 13-14 volts idling around the yard, but the car's not warm and may be on high idle. I'll check the ground circuit first. I did the ammeter bypass so the alt runs directly to the battery lug on the starter relay...

I've got a 67 Barracuda 273, with what looks to be the original, or at least original style 1 wire alt. (1 wire from the regulator) Read lots of threads on trouble shooting if you're overcharging. I don't remember, however, reading what the charging voltage should be. Can anyone help me...

That's very helpful information, thank you. This is actually where my choke was connected, but I wasn't sure if it was proper or not. I'll run a new wire from the ign terminal on the regulator to the choke.

Run is what I meant. I call the positions of the key "accessory" and "ignition". Not the right terminology I realise, my bad. (I'll fix that up, thanks) The blue wire that runs between the ballast resistor and the regulator is the one you speak of correct? I see now looking at the diagram that...

I'd like to start by thanking everyone. I'm freshening up the butchered electrical in my car and I've got a lot of good info on these forums. First question is where is a good "run" only source to power my electric choke? I had planned on installing a Voltmeter, Oil Pressure and Water Temp...

I did just find a picture of a wiper motor online with only 3 connections, the same as mine, so maybe that's the case.