Recent content by chryslercruiser

Is the float absorbing fuel and getting heavy? That would be my first guess... especially if you have already readjusted it once, and it continues to be start running rich over time.. I replaced the plastic-foam float in my 1945 with brass.. NOT sure that such is a good practice, as it was...

What is your cranking compression? That gives a good beginning place for tuning benchmarks...

Depending upon your budget... I would prioritize head work, around the valves, or larger valves before spending $$ on headers... for two reasons.. One it allows for headers later if you want more performance, AND the head work is already done.. If you spend the money on headers, with small...

The "RIGHT" one is a carb that allows your newly rebuilt engine to run well, and provides seamless drivability... unless you are creating a museum piece.. The "original" carb looks to have been 'remanufactured'... if it runs ok then you are lucky and you can feel good that you have an original...

Thanks for the recommendation..

Anyone want to offer some words on the experience of an engine liking 32 better than 30? or what ever the total advance is.. And how do YOU personally go about experimenting to find out what the engine likes best.. All on a street car, no drag strip near by.. I'm interested in how others...

Yes, and now that you say it I remember reading here that DD put the front-rear "Y" back near the rear axle and it gave good off idle power.. that is what I am looking for.. Then how to size it so it does not become a cork at 4500.. but realistically I am in the 1500-3000 range and most often...

Pete had tri-y's on his willys? I like home brewed solutions... What would happen if the center two cylinders were connected, numbers 2&4, and then1&6, so there are 3 sets of 2 cylinders.. and each is connected.. then the three collectors merge into one...?

I'm under the impression that Tri-Y headers help the midrange on a V8. Would they do the same on an inline 6? I'm looking for off idle to maybe 4500RPM... I would be building my own, probably using a Jeep 4.0 tubular exhaust manifold, and some other collected parts to create this.

Do some simple tests on the spare engine, and find out if it actually needs rebuilding! Or Pay someone to do the tests to find out if you have an engine that needs to be rebuilt. Slant 6's are durable engines, and the likelyhood that you have two that both need rebuilding is uncommon.

In a previous thread Uncle Dan told you the '74 vintage 1945 was a crappy carb that had numerous problems.... Did your professional carb rebuilder know all about how bad those carbs were and did he know how to fix them? Cause gaskets, and a soak in the ultrasonic cleaner won't fix a bad carb...

I don't believe it is abnormal for a slant six to have cylinders 1&6 running richer than the others... some intake manifolds were significantly worse in this regard than others... and 1974 was not one of the good ones... Yeah the plugs are not great, but they are not the issue...they are just...

Plugs look ok, and don't show anything obvious. What is the initial timing set at, and do you have a vacuum gauge to hook up to manifold vacuum?

Put a vacuum gauge on it.. report back here with the manifold vacuum at idle, and observations of what the vacuum gauge needle is doing (steady, quivering, bouncing?) Most likely it is something simple.. and it all needs to be checked before assuming the worst case... A picture of all the...

Yes the tube is a press fit... and I found that brake line fits and works.. don't use any heat to get the tube to let go.. Ask me how I know... Mine was rusty and I could not see the joint between the dipstick tube and the oil pan tube receiver.. but it is there!