Recent content by Doosterfy

Hey everyone, I have not been here in FABO for a long time. Anyway I purchased and installed a new MSD 6AL 2 programmable box in my Duster. I'm having a problem with writing programs with the MSD software that came with the new box. The software loaded into my laptop, no problem and its easy to...

You did not mention stall speed or gear ratio. You did say daily street motor and it needs good vacuum for the brakes. You also did not say if its zero decked or how far down the pistons are from the deck a TDC or what size chambers the heads have so I'll assume the block was not decked and you...

Sorry Bro, I can't. I relocated from Connecticut to North Carolina about a year and a half ago and currently don't have a garage or shop to work in. Back up north I had a fully equipped four car garage and was fabricating all kinds of things for people and their cars. Hopefully I'll be putting...

Looks like we've reached a conclusion. Either one will work, it's just a matter of preference.

Sounds like you have some other problem. Mechanical pump with a Holley on mine and I rarely ever have to crank it for more than three seconds even if I have not started it in a month.

It can be done. You will need a JW Ultrabell bellhousing for 904 to big block. To use it you have to cut the original bellhousing off and the JW bellhousing bolts on top of the pump using longer bolts. I very much doubt the /6 904 will hold up for long behind even a mild big block though. The...

I always use mechanical pumps unless I have no choice. I prefer the simplicity and most of all the silence of a mechanical pump. I have a 440 in my Gold Duster. Not sure about how much power it has but it weighs 3500# with me in it and has run a best of 7.06 @ 96 in the 1/8 mile and 11.125 @ 121...

Yes

There is a drawback to doing that. The further in towards the carrier you cut and weld, the more the warpage will effect how far the axle bearing end of the tube moves. As far as using the axle as a jig, that's not going to do a very good job either. If you get a chance try sliding an axle in...

Mine is power steering. That's why if you do go with the U-joint setup Its best to call the company you're getting it from and make sure you're getting the right one. I don't remember the spline count and not all the steering shafts are the same as well. I wound up sending pictures of what I had...

Call Flaming River industries. The factory coupler would not clear the headers on my big block Duster so I bought a nice stainless steel U-joint coupler from them. Its best to call them directly because there are variations in what came on these cars as far as parts like steering shafts etc...

Yup, I've been involved with the automotive hobby for 40 years and have worked at three different performance/racing parts manufacturers. Nothing beats OEM parts for quality and fit. I had considered using a factory front disc setup. The only reason I did not was because I don't like the wider...

I'll post what happens. I have to see it through, these brakes were not cheap, altogether they were $1200 not including all the lines, fittings and other small parts I had to buy to get the system in. I have to say I'm disappointed with the tech support I've gotten from Wilwood. I've talked to a...

That's good helpful info. I will try to locate the tool to measure the actual clamping pressure exerted by the calipers. About the 7/8 bore not having enough volume to fill all those pistons at the calipers; Wilwood recommended going to the 7/8 bore to get more pressure to the calipers with less...

Also I forgot to mention when I swapped from the Wilwood 7/8" bore cylinder to the K car 7/8" bore cylinder it performed exactly the same.