Recent content by JKrebs

Thanks guys. I will call him today and get the ball rolling.

I'm looking for a recommendation for restoring the trunk finish panel on my 68 Dart GTS. I don't believe there is a reproduction for this part. I know there are some shops that specialize in this type of work and restoration of the panel can be a bit pricey. If any of you have used one of these...

Did you make sure that you are on the #1 compression stroke with the crank? If not you will bend valves!!! I made this mistake the first time I swapped a cam when I was 16. I will never make that mistake again. You can have the dot on the crank at 12 o'clock and be 180 degrees out.

I got 10" kit from classic industries. I think I ordered for a 69 but fit my 68 perfectly.

Get a priming rod if you don't already have one. They are less then $10 and you can find them on Ebay or any of the major parts sites. Hook to your drill and run on high speed. I leave the valve covers off so I can see the flow up to each of the heads. Just turn the crank until you get flow on...

Joe I bought this stand off the net for around $375 delivered. I added some steel for the rad. I would say I have around $600 total in the rig.

Suggestion has been noted and implemented

That makes sense. I am familiar with what a piston stop is and how it works. However I am confused on how to set the proper depth on the stop to confirm that the piston is truly at TDC. Or do I use degree wheel and rotate crank both ways and set the TDC 180 out of true TDC?

Do you think I could place a piece of rigid wire in the #1 hole and watch when it stops moving up and compaire it to the mark on the balancer for a sanity check?

Thanks for the detailed response. I do have a slight advantage as I am going to break in the motor on a test stand that I am setting up. So there will be no high revs until after break in and the install of the inner spring. So by then the lifter will be pumped up. I find it easier to find zero...

I us I thought about this. And this could be my issue. I set the motor up with timing marks on the drivers side and it is now set up with mark on the passenger side. I do currently have a 68-9 balancer on the motor with TDC mark for passenger side cover. Any ideas on how to confirm at this point?

I was laying in bed thinking that I could not be a tooth off as I did degree the cam and numbers came out perfect with the info on the card. And yes 106 is correct. What is your method for finding zero lash? I would think that the whole procedure is not that precise as there is certainly some...

If so I have a valve timing question. When adjusting the valves (first time fire up) and I'm at TDC the #2 intake is not on the bottom of the lobe. Either is the #8 exhaust. They both are close but not quite there. I don't know if the Lunati grind is a bit different. The Lunati literature calls...

I’ll give the rope a try and start from there. At least that will give me a starting point. Thanks

Just for breakin but I do want to use mechanical pump just to know I’m good.