Recent content by junkyardhero

i didn't think 15, but i also didn't think 4 if you're into that sort of thing, it's got okay bones and a chunk of change in hardware.

ahem...

you can get some .027 cometics.... $$$

muh-huh and HR is there to protect you... when i was on the repair side of it, i had to haggle with insurance companies constantly. just because you didn't see it happening, doesn't mean that it's not happening behind the scenes.

i'll DM you...

i mean... if i could find a lo-miles good condition used one with matching lifters i wouldn't hesitate to run it. though you can usually find them new in the 100~130 range kicking around so unless the used one was damn near free, the juice ain't really worth the squeeze there. and yes, i...

because of your application i don't think there's really a "wrong" option here; it just comes down to whether you want to have something that's a little more itchy out of the hole and you're okay with spending that money, or just keeping the 727 and bumping up a gear ratio.

welp. looks like it's time to sell my 72 duster! the doors work and there's no peek-a-boo roof option. exactly half the price of that. limited time only for FABO gold members and extra 10% off! *laughs*

you didn't say what else the combo is... so i'll assume a stock converter, manifolds and a rear gear that is sub 3.55 here's my suggestions: melling 2301 it's kind of a riff on a stock 360 2bbl cam but with a tick more duration and tighter LSA. it's great with stock components and you won't...

of course not! slants don't make enough power to realize any serious heat! *ducks*

per tire rack the BFG's and Coopers (i'm assuming that you're running one of those two) spec out at 26.1" the 3.23's would be 60mph @ 2500, 72mph @ 3000 the 2.94's would be 66mph @ 2500, 79mph @ 3000 the 3.91's would be 50mph @ 2500, 59mph @ 3000 depending on what you're trying to do with...

like @1WildRT suggests, this sounds like the right set up for a low gearset 904/998/999 coupled with a rear end gear of 3.23 or (2.94 depending on tire size) you'll have something that's still got the punch down stairs on the street but can cruise comfortably on the highway without eating...

entirely valid train of thought! i was mostly caffeinated and still took a second thought on it. also i'm operating with the benefit of having all that stuff directly in my face over the last two days while fitting it up and checking clearances.

it's *likely* you're SOL then. you'll need to notch or you need another pan. if you have a pic, i can tell you-- i have my car on the rack with 73~76 stuff and i also have a 67~72 set up that i can snap on there for comparison. the arc of the idler is *basically* the same between the two...

suspension travel has no bearing on the idler/pitman/crosslink. the position of and movement arc is fixed. motor position is probably the the place to gain the most purchase, a little shim can go a long way.