Recent content by junkyardhero

not unless somebody welded one in. question: do you have the motor free of the motor mounts and jacked up a bit for clearance? without doing so, you're unlikely to clear the front of the pan on the K and it'll tend to hang up on the body of the oil pump in the back.

the rubber is the seal between the pan and the block. it may be cemented to one or both, and it's a crap shoot as to whether it stays on the block or pan when everything comes apart.

if the pan is baffled it's probably hung up on the pick up

is it loose and just not coming down? if so, then it may be held up on the pick up screen. if it's still tight, either you forgot a bolt (or two) or they used "right stuff" and cemented the pan in place. there are two bolts right up against the part of the rail where the lip begins.

if you want to do it "right" then you'll need a B&T unit and the "early" shifter rods. that all tucks neatly under the hump with minimal cutting on the floor. however you have an entire argument of: but gasser so i'd source whatever cog box you can get your hands on, hack a hole in the...

if it's a complete kit, unless it's from bergman auto craft or pst/kanter the chances are is that it's completely hot garbage. anyway, that clunk could be anything from a loose shock to a severely compromised major component or structural piece. i'd be putting eyes on it before parting with...

well... it'll sound nasty with that cam. the 650 will be fine, but if you're looking to wring the most out of it i'd say a 750~780 (QFT HR 780 VS would be my choice) or a double pumper

no. because my position comes from the use of a clayton water brake dyno on dual rollers backed up by hours of testing on a froude engine unit and then extensive road testing. so what are your bona fides? where are you receipts? an AVS 2 essentially has vacuum secondaries. it's literally...

ah, yes... drag racing... the only method by which the selection of a carburetor should be made.

meh. just wire the 2ndaries shut and you'll be in like flynn.

Nigel, fetch my fainting couch, for i seem to have over carburettored myself!

do so. anything else is just a guess.

you don't just do the box. as others have linked and tried to nudge you toward, it's a whole kit. like i said, it's not a "bolt in" replacement. you need the supporting cast. and the $1200 [give or take] that it all costs.

i mean, to do it "right" would basically be a rebuild. but it really depends on what you're after and what your plans are in the long/short term of things and what you're comfortable with in the arena of suspect engine work and kinds of monies spent. if you're just looking to get something...