i've welded cracks like that (and longer) with a normal mig welder more than once and not had any issues. i weld the length of the crack going side to side across it as i go along. then i usually add frankenstitches at 90 degrees to the weld at 1" intervals for a full 'belt and braces' job. oh...
a different gap between gear ratios won't affect the optimum shift rpm. any given motor spec can't have 2 different ideal maximum rpm points, that's not how it works. but you knew that so......
neil.
without those dust shields you get about 50% better cooling to the brakes and never get stones caught between them and the disc. just saying.... :thumbsup:
neil.
in those pics it's not clear but how close is the caliper to the brake hardline and bracket chassis end? allow for suspension travel all the way to the bump stop.
neil.
the way you 'notched' the k member for oil pan clearance is pretty much how i did mine on my 65 dart i put a 440 into. i figured i'd rather alter the k member than reduce oil pan capacity.
neil.
i have the earlier 340 cam and as above the kb399 pistons. a weiand stealth intake (performer rpm from another mother, lol) and a holley 770 street avenger carb. i'll be making fenderwell headers too so they won't hurt either.
neil.
i ordered a hv oil pump, van/truck pickup tube and rings for the kb pistons yesterday. i went for the van/truck pickup as they have a rear bowl sump. we'll alter my car sump to suit and this'll give more clearance over the front (transverse) spring crossmember in the nash.
neil.
popped out to the mobile shed (my transit van) to have a look at the 360 heads we picked up last weekend at the pod. yes they're 'j' heads as stu told me which is cool. even better they have the larger 2.02" inlet valves which from what i've read means 340 or early 360 heads. also the chambers...