re the gap, you could add another layer of steel sheet to the lip of either the infill panel or the cowl panel or both to reduce the gap. basically they'd be double skinned but with the outer edge fully welded and ground smooth nobody would know.
neil.
can i suggest painting the area up behind the dash and the backside of the dash panel white? it won't be seen once assembled but if you ever need to fault find behind there it's much easier to see anything against a white background. :thumbsup:
neil.
i've shortened a few, all different makes (been building hotrods over 40 years). unless you can clearly see it's a tube inside a tube (rubber bonded between) then they just seem to have a thick cardboard tube inside. i'm guessing it damps any noise from the driveshaft when pulling at low revs...
if the 3/8 bolt's head centres in the perch that'll do. it only needs to centre it for assembly, once the 'u' bolts are tight it can't move. same for the 5/16" centre bolt to be honest, it's function is just to hold the leaves together while the springs are fitted in place. there's no load on...
a big hammer and a bigger hammer. hold the bigger one behind the rivet and hit the other side with the big one. it'll help if the rivets have loosened but not so much if the holes are worn oversize (wallered out, lol).
neil.
looking good :thumbsup:
without looking back has the motor been broken in? if not i'd do that before getting the headers coated in case the process damages the coating.
neil.