Haven’t tested the ballast resistors that we took off, not that it would mean much but the coil was replaced a few days ago. But could certainly be bad out of the box. My son just tested the voltage regulator and it’s showing that it’s putting out 15.5 volts on a fully charged battery. And there...
Okay, we swapped out the plugs. Fired right up. Running strong again, then shut down on its own. Would crank but not start up. Swapped out the ballast resistor that was already new just a few days before. Anyway after swapping it out, fired right up and runs strong. Set the initial timing on it...
Initially when we tried to start it, it had an ignition problem with it. That’s why we put in the new distributor and replaced the msd coil with an own one. I was thinking too it would have been a higher compression rate as well.
I’ll pick up an infrared heat gun tomorrow and give that a try if you think it would work with stock style hp exhaust manifolds. I would think it would.
It’s the original 318 block bored .040 over. With the complete edelbrock upper end kit(aluminum heads, performer rpm air gap intake, came with the matched cam, lifters etc. stick hp exhaust manifolds with dual exhaust.
We did a complete compression test and all the cylinders tested within 11 pounds of each other with the lowest being 110 and the highest 121. Cylinder 5 is 111 cylinder 7 is 118 pounds. No noticeable coolant loose.
So we had got the new engine fired up, broke in and was running and idling good. Recently it’s started running rough and appears to be not running consistently on two of the cylinders. Cylinders 5 and 7. The plugs aren’t showing any burn on them. Has good compression, ample fuel, shows spark...
Well it was a bunch of little things all related to the coil, distributor and the ballast resistor. The ballast while new had a small crack, the new msd coil wasn’t putting out enough volts(put the old one on and put it up from 3.5 to 5 with key on) then even though the internals had all been...