Ignition/start & other questions-440HP 1970 Chrysler 300

Yes indeed it was an issue with the start wire to the Ballast resistor. In my case it is a 14awg brown wire. I put a meter on the coil while cranking and got milivolts so i went to the resistor figuring the last dude to hack on the car did something but there was continuity to the coil from the resistor although there was a shabby splice put in for some unknown reason which I got rid of. I was visually chasing wires and couldn't see anything wrong until I shrunk my head (yes my head can get even smaller than usual) and got a look at the bulkhead connector and saw the brown wire was in the right terminal spot but had backed out of the connector about 1/4". The bulkhead on this car is so hard to get to and manipulate. With the 10awg ammeter connector bypass the wires are drilled right through 2 of the connectors and this makes moving the connectors even more difficult. I also replaced a lot of the harness tape that was nasty with the OEM style, non adhesive type and I wish I had waited to do this because it wold have made tracing the wires soooo much easier. I did leave some slack in the bypass wires and the holes are drilled large enough so the wires slide through the connector but they are thick & stiff so it was a nightmare getting the plugs to clip securely. Actually getting the plugs to clip in was a real PIA-just no room to gain leverage. I removed the spade terminal from the plug and opened the barb on it and stuck it back in and checked for voltage and had it although only about 10.75 during cranking? I've seen other posts talk about the voltage at the coil being low during cranking due to battery load while cranking. Is this something I should concern myself with. The battery is not old and it has not presented any problems?
Thanks muchly for the great help.
Any ideas on my heat problem or should I see if the spacer does the job?

Howard
Hampstead, NC