Install volt meter in place of ammeter wiring question
ahhh. Sorry
The main page
http://www.madelectrical.com/
Several electrical related articles
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
and the specific one we want
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
The important diagram from the above page:
This diagram illustrates how many many Mopars work for years and years. Even a 77 B200 van I junked out is set up this way. The main problems are, that the HIGH CURRENT charging and battery feeds go through the bulkhead on connectors which were never over sized, and have deteriorated with age. Additionally, in my lifetime, I've seen 4 cars in which the "in harness splice" failed (marked "welded splice" on the diagram)
Additionally, the ammeter and it's connections ITSELF can give problems, and then you have the "usual suspects" --worn out ignition switch, poor contacts in the connector for it, same for the headlight/ dimmer switch, and, the bulkhead connections feeding back OUT
The basic MAD bypass does the following: You run a charging jumper from the alternator to the starter relay, and then hook the ammeter wires together. This RELIEVES the heavy charging current from the harness into the interior, and NOW the TWO wires that used to operate the ammeter are now in PARALLEL, acting as one large wire to feed power INTO the interior of the car. The big wire jumper you install from the alternator to the starter relay effectively ties these two (the red and black) together into one large wire.
ahhh. Sorry
The main page
http://www.madelectrical.com/
Several electrical related articles
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
and the specific one we want
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
The important diagram from the above page:
This diagram illustrates how many many Mopars work for years and years. Even a 77 B200 van I junked out is set up this way. The main problems are, that the HIGH CURRENT charging and battery feeds go through the bulkhead on connectors which were never over sized, and have deteriorated with age. Additionally, in my lifetime, I've seen 4 cars in which the "in harness splice" failed (marked "welded splice" on the diagram)
Additionally, the ammeter and it's connections ITSELF can give problems, and then you have the "usual suspects" --worn out ignition switch, poor contacts in the connector for it, same for the headlight/ dimmer switch, and, the bulkhead connections feeding back OUT
The basic MAD bypass does the following: You run a charging jumper from the alternator to the starter relay, and then hook the ammeter wires together. This RELIEVES the heavy charging current from the harness into the interior, and NOW the TWO wires that used to operate the ammeter are now in PARALLEL, acting as one large wire to feed power INTO the interior of the car. The big wire jumper you install from the alternator to the starter relay effectively ties these two (the red and black) together into one large wire.
