Install volt meter in place of ammeter wiring question
I have two concerns with this method: one, parallel conductors without proper over current protection is not acceptable.
I do not disagree, although mine is currently (no pun!!) unprotected. If done as they suggest, the original fuse link still protects one of the conductors. If you bypass the alternator to the starter relay, it would be a simple matter to also put a second fuse link at the connection of the start relay stud and the bypass wire.
two, removing the capability of disconnecting engine compartment harness from under dash harness is cumbersome if repairs to either require disconnection by running from engine compartment to factory splice continuous conductor .
I know there are some that seem to believe you can repair these connectors "as is" but I've seen enough of 'em melted and damaged, and giving problems over the years that I'm just tired of the root of the problem. If you run an auxiliary relay box, to provide power for headlights, ignition, etc mounted underhood, this sort of eliminates the problem, because you can then disconnect the harness, pop the connector out of it's mount, and just snake what's left "into" the hole.
For what LITTLE (maybe never) that I'll ever need to "deharness" the car, this for me is a VERY minor point, compared to having a RELIABLE electrical system, with no real problems.
a more electrical correct and user friendly method should be employed using a connector such as this
Firewall Stud Insulator. .
That or something along those lines is certainly an option. Let's not forget that on some of the earlier cars, the ammeter circuit (2 wires) were fed through SEPARATELY anyhow.
I must say their remote voltage sensing method of connecting voltage regulator to a common power distribution point with little or no voltage drop warrants additional consideration. Eliminating five or six points of voltage drops in our Chrysler voltage regulator circuit as current passes in and out of bulkhead connector would be helpful in maintaining proper voltage levels..
That is absolutely a concern, and the biggest one is the switched ignition circuit. Not only does the voltage drop cause overcharging while running, but can cause starting problems because without the alternator running, that voltage is LOW just when the key is released, the engine may be stumbling trying to run, and the charging system is not yet putting out.
