5.9 FI Magnum swap in 73 swinger
Ok, so the motor came out yesterday out of the jeep. I took some pics but for some reason my camera on my phone was on the incorrect size setting so some pics are a little small.
The main engine compartment harness runs from the passenger side firewall to a under hood fuse box. That fuse box has some essential and some non essential relays and fuses for the engine so I am going to keep it and utilize it. From the fuse box the wiring harness goes a couple different places. There is a A/C component harness, that goes to drier, ac pressure switches and so forth. Then there is a harness that has 2 bulky connectors that go directly to the main engine harness. There is also one harness that goes to the PCM 3 (grey). Then there is what I call the power harness, it goes to the alternator and main engine grounds and starter. Lastly the longest harness goes from the fuse box to the front of the engine bay that contains horns/headlights/abs/cooing fan and then has communications and others wires that go into the drivers side fire wall, including the dark green with white wire that goes to the fuel pump.
So here is what I did. I all cut the wires going into both sides of the fire wall due to having the schematic. I Isolated the dark blue with grey wire that supplies key on power to the PCM and fuel pump. The dark blue with grey wire was coming from the passenger side firewall into the fuse box itself.
to test, I re-connected the battery cables after cutting the wires from both sides of the fire wall, connected the dark blue with grey wire to the positive side of the batt. (You could immediately hear the relays click on) CAREFULLY poured a smidge of gas down the throttle body I then jumped the starter wire (light green with black) and the motor fired up!!! (for reference, I also did this same routine before cutting the driver side, the fuel pump kicked on and the motor was running as normal, all injectors firing)
Once confirmation of what was needed for the motor to run, i began removing the harness. You will be able to remove the harness that has the fuse box separately from the main engine harness. Carefully look over your harness coming from the fuse box. There will be a lot to remove that includes all the front lights, horn, abs system, ac system, grounds, cruise control, alternator, starter and 2 important bulk connectors that go to the main engine harness. Once you have everything disconnected and the fuse box unbolted you should be able to remove that whole under hood harness.
After the fuse box harness is removed, and after you disconnect the 02 sensors you will be able to pull the engine out with its own harness still attached. You will however need to disconnect all of the transmission connections and if a its from a 4x4 vehicle I found 2 different plugs on the transfer case itself. Don't forget to disconnect the fuel line, and all throttle/linkage cables.
Just a quick little tip, don't hold back on disconnecting the pcm itself, all three plugs are keyed so you can't get them switched around.
Next up, trimming the fuse box harness with hopefully better pictures!!
Ok, so the motor came out yesterday out of the jeep. I took some pics but for some reason my camera on my phone was on the incorrect size setting so some pics are a little small.
The main engine compartment harness runs from the passenger side firewall to a under hood fuse box. That fuse box has some essential and some non essential relays and fuses for the engine so I am going to keep it and utilize it. From the fuse box the wiring harness goes a couple different places. There is a A/C component harness, that goes to drier, ac pressure switches and so forth. Then there is a harness that has 2 bulky connectors that go directly to the main engine harness. There is also one harness that goes to the PCM 3 (grey). Then there is what I call the power harness, it goes to the alternator and main engine grounds and starter. Lastly the longest harness goes from the fuse box to the front of the engine bay that contains horns/headlights/abs/cooing fan and then has communications and others wires that go into the drivers side fire wall, including the dark green with white wire that goes to the fuel pump.
So here is what I did. I all cut the wires going into both sides of the fire wall due to having the schematic. I Isolated the dark blue with grey wire that supplies key on power to the PCM and fuel pump. The dark blue with grey wire was coming from the passenger side firewall into the fuse box itself.
to test, I re-connected the battery cables after cutting the wires from both sides of the fire wall, connected the dark blue with grey wire to the positive side of the batt. (You could immediately hear the relays click on) CAREFULLY poured a smidge of gas down the throttle body I then jumped the starter wire (light green with black) and the motor fired up!!! (for reference, I also did this same routine before cutting the driver side, the fuel pump kicked on and the motor was running as normal, all injectors firing)
Once confirmation of what was needed for the motor to run, i began removing the harness. You will be able to remove the harness that has the fuse box separately from the main engine harness. Carefully look over your harness coming from the fuse box. There will be a lot to remove that includes all the front lights, horn, abs system, ac system, grounds, cruise control, alternator, starter and 2 important bulk connectors that go to the main engine harness. Once you have everything disconnected and the fuse box unbolted you should be able to remove that whole under hood harness.
After the fuse box harness is removed, and after you disconnect the 02 sensors you will be able to pull the engine out with its own harness still attached. You will however need to disconnect all of the transmission connections and if a its from a 4x4 vehicle I found 2 different plugs on the transfer case itself. Don't forget to disconnect the fuel line, and all throttle/linkage cables.
Just a quick little tip, don't hold back on disconnecting the pcm itself, all three plugs are keyed so you can't get them switched around.
Next up, trimming the fuse box harness with hopefully better pictures!!
