Starting to rebuild the Allen distributor machine
Below we have essentially the circuit involved with the distributor trigger. Do not confuse with above, which is separate and is for the TACH trigger. This circuit below get's hooked to the distributor, either magnetic pickup or points, and ONLY operates the strobe for the degree wheel
So this is a 4 wire Mopar module, with TWO 4 terminal resistors, all in series, to reduce spark output from the coil
The last photo may look like one 'ell of a mess, but in reality this is a very scientific, closely controlled experiment!!!!
The strobe power comes from the coil but it needs nowhere near full output. The original had a huge dropping resistor in series with the coil wire to limit spark energy, was connected to ground through a television (1B3) damper tube, and last, has spark gaps at the slip ring/ brushes board to further limit hi voltage.
So what this experiment produced was a combination of Mopar ECU, and larger resistance than normal coil resistance to "knock down" uneeded coil voltage.
So the lashup will be thus:
To test a Toy/ GM/ Mopar/ other magnetic trigger, I will use a Mopar module.
To test a breaker points dist, it turns out that you can trigger a Mopar module by hooking the points to the distributor male terminal of the two wire connector.
All that's left is whatever (Ford) uses "Hall Effect" triggers, and we'll see
So the "mess" was experimenting with different coil resistors to limit voltage.
IT TURNS OUT that with a 4- wire module, I can take TWO 4 terminal resistors, and wire ALL FOUR resistors in series with the coil, and still have plenty of coil output to fire the timing strobe!!!. This GREATLY reduces the load on a power supply.
Below we have essentially the circuit involved with the distributor trigger. Do not confuse with above, which is separate and is for the TACH trigger. This circuit below get's hooked to the distributor, either magnetic pickup or points, and ONLY operates the strobe for the degree wheel
So this is a 4 wire Mopar module, with TWO 4 terminal resistors, all in series, to reduce spark output from the coil
The last photo may look like one 'ell of a mess, but in reality this is a very scientific, closely controlled experiment!!!!
The strobe power comes from the coil but it needs nowhere near full output. The original had a huge dropping resistor in series with the coil wire to limit spark energy, was connected to ground through a television (1B3) damper tube, and last, has spark gaps at the slip ring/ brushes board to further limit hi voltage.
So what this experiment produced was a combination of Mopar ECU, and larger resistance than normal coil resistance to "knock down" uneeded coil voltage.
So the lashup will be thus:
To test a Toy/ GM/ Mopar/ other magnetic trigger, I will use a Mopar module.
To test a breaker points dist, it turns out that you can trigger a Mopar module by hooking the points to the distributor male terminal of the two wire connector.
All that's left is whatever (Ford) uses "Hall Effect" triggers, and we'll see
So the "mess" was experimenting with different coil resistors to limit voltage.
IT TURNS OUT that with a 4- wire module, I can take TWO 4 terminal resistors, and wire ALL FOUR resistors in series with the coil, and still have plenty of coil output to fire the timing strobe!!!. This GREATLY reduces the load on a power supply.
