A727 Rebuild kits redux - Rebuild kits everywhere (62-70 vs 71+)

Hi FABO,
Thanks for a great thread. Here’s a follow up…

After reviewing the information in the responses I received, reading through Munroe's TF A-727 Handbook, consulting my engine builder and searching several retail sites (Bakerlite was right I went to 3 vendors) this is what I ended up doing.

Keep in mind that this is my first attempt at overhauling transmission and I'm relying completely on the feedback I received and the 727 handbook/DVD. Taking the advice and recommendations from Tony (70aarcuda), Tracy (Fishy68) and Transman, resulted in the following.

Parts:

· Transtar super deluxe Kit for TF8 (62-up) Gasket Kit, Sealing Ring Kit, Pump Seal, Extension Housing Seal, High/Reverse Friction, Smooth/Foward Friction, Front/Rear Steel, Large Dacron Filter, Front Flex Band, Washer Kit, Front Babbitt Bushing, Front Drum Bushing, Annulus Gear Bushing, Extension Housing Bushing, Reaction Bushing
· Billet Rear servo piston
· 3.8 Ratio kick down lever (using a flex band)
· Front Clutch springs
· Accumulator blocker rod (using 2800 stall converter)
· Bolt-in overrunning assembly (sprag)
· Bushing Kit (unused goes into inventory)
· Washer and shim Kit (unused goes into inventory)
· Transgo-tf2 shift kit
· Magnetic drain plug kit
· Neutral safety switch
· Line fittings

Spec’s:

1. Set your rear clutch pack clearance to .040-.045".
2. Set the front clutch to .055-.075 "clearance.
3. Set the total end play to .020" or as close as you can get it to that.

Pit fall:

1. I've found if you set the rear clutch pack to .035" clearance like the Handbook recommends it may want to creep in neutral for a couple thousand miles before the plates wear enough they don't do it anymore.
2. Go a little looser on the front clutch pack. 727's are bad on 2-3 shift overlap and the looser clearance helps a little.

Approach :

Replacement of all bushings and washers, and inspect the rear bearing closely. Replace the sprag springs and rollers, and if you're going to beat on it, go with the HD bolt in sparg. Check the pump gears for wear. Always replace the front band, and check the rear band closely. If the bands are burnt , then the drums should be machined.

What you want to check on the planetaries is side to side motion on the gears against the pins as well as the up and down movement of the gears. If there's a lot of side to side movement, then shimming the gears is a waste of time, as the pins are worn out.

Note - Alto red plates are a good choice if you're going drag racing a lot, and if you go this route, be sure and use the Kolene (black) steel plates. I've had guys tell me though that this combination wasn't the best for a car driven mainly on the street.

I probably went a bit heavy but since I’m cutting my teeth on this I’m trying to cover all of my bases. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

Thank you for the help!

AlV