coil fire??

Sorry I don't understand your rambling description.

At one point you said "hot at pos dead at neg!" The neg side of coil will be either hot or cold depending on whether the points are open or closed

You need to be VERY SPECIFIC about stating test results

Key on? Key in run? Cranking? If cranking are you using the key or a remote starter?

PLEASE read my previous post

THIS IS a SIMPLE series circuit.

Power comes from the BATTERY,.......goes to the STARTER RELAY LARGE STUD.........goes through the FUSE LINK..........through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR..........to the AMMETER.........to the IGNITION SWITCH............back out the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR...............to the BALLAST RESISTOR............to the COIL POSITIVE............through thecoil...........to the COIL NEGATIVE............to the ...........DISTRIBUTOR...........through the POINTS............to ..........GROUND.

With

KEY IN RUN

NOT CRANKING

POINTS CLOSED

You should have the following:

At one end of ballast same as battery voltage

at coil end of ballast a much lower voltage, perhaps 6V

At coil POS same voltage as above, perhaps 6V

At coil NEG very LOW voltage, close to zero

========================================

Bump engine until points open

Should have same as battery voltage at ALL the below..............

Both sides of ballast, coil pos and coil neg, and at points wire terminal in distributor

==========================================

With engine cranking, voltage at coil NEG should jump up and down as points open / close

YOU WILL NOT repeat WILL NOT have good spark if............

You have low voltage to coil

you have a bad coil

============================================================================

IMPORTANT!!!!!

if points are corroded and not actually carrying current

CHECK that the points have low resistance. CLOSE the points by bumping engine. Turn key to RUN. MEASURE voltage at coil NEG. It should be VERY LOW. Less than 1 volt, the less the better



if CONDENSER IN DISTRIBUTOR IS BAD. A "new" condenser does NOT mean a "good" IE functioning condenser.

Things you MUST HAVE. There are no exceptions, there is no negotiation

SHOP MANUAL. Download one here, there's a 65 Plymouth manual

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=244981

DWELL METER. If you are gonna screw with breaker points you need a tach/ dwell tester. Just about all of them have a POINTS RESISTANCE test position

MULTIMETER. You need a decent multimeter, some clip leads which you can get at Radio Shack, and a test lamp, which I'd guess you do have.