Caster & Camber VS Height

Increasing ride height increases camber. The higher you go, the more positive the camber will get. Lowering the car decreases camber- once you're in negative camber territory, lowering the car will make the camber more negative.

Which is one of the reasons why our torsion bar suspension is great for setting up a performance handling car. Lowering the car with the torsion bars also gets you more negative camber, and that's exactly what you want.

As far as the alignment shops, good luck. A lot of the chain shops will not align to anything other than what's in their computer, and what's in their computer is the factory specs for bias ply tires. You may be able to appeal to reason by explaining that the specs in their computer were for bias ply tires and will be horrible for the radials on your car, but only the "technicians" with half a brain will understand that. You may have to find an independent shop.

If they get squirrely you can sometimes talk them into putting a modern car into the computer. Unfortunately, most modern cars run more negative camber and a TON of positive caster. You can tell them to just get as close to that as they can get, but if you look at the specs for a SRT8 Challenger you'll see what I mean. The minimum camber specs will work good, but you'll never get anywhere near those caster specs without adjustable UCA's, and you won't want them if you have manual steering. The only good news is with the stock UCA's you probably won't get more than +3 caster anyway, and that would be fine.

SRT8


FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PREFERRED SETTING
ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER - LEFT
−1.05°
−1.60° to −0.50°
CAMBER - RIGHT
−1.35°
−1.90° to −0.80°
CROSS-CAMBER * (Maximum side-to-side difference)
+0.30°
−0.25° to +0.85°
CASTER - LEFT
+8.30°
+7.30° to +9.30°
CASTER - RIGHT
+9.00°
+8.00° to +10.00°
CROSS-CASTER * (Maximum side-to-side difference)
−0.70°
−1.30° to −0.10°
TOE - TOTAL**
+0.20°
0.00° to +0.40°