Caster & Camber VS Height

Awesome thread, great info...

I just went through a very similar situation myself.

Just bought a 72 Valiant. The guy I bought it from had lowered the front end via the torsion bars and it had an awesome stance. He had 14" AR rims for it but said they were rubbing on the control arms and needed a wheel alignment so that they would fit. In my ignorance I believed him, took it to a local shop for the alignment. They had a hard time finding the specs for their machine but managed to find them but said there was no way they could get it in spec without cranking the torsion bars back up (replaced ball joints and pitman arm as well)

It handles and steers great (for all stock parts) but now the front end sits higher than the back and looks goofy (and the front rims still rub on the control arm...grrr)

Any suggestions? I have thought about raising up the rear to level the car back out but would be great if I could lower the front a bit, maybe just not as much as it was but I dont know much about alignments and I dont think there are many shops that do around here either

What alignment specs were they using? Usually if it's lowered and they can't get it in spec it means they're using the stock specs, which are incorrect for radials. You want something more like the skosh chart posted above, say -.5* camber, +3 caster and around 1/8 to 1/16 toe in.

You still may need to install a set of offset UCA bushings though to get both the camber and caster to those specs. Plus, if you lower the car a bunch you'll need larger torsion bars to keep from bottoming the suspension. Most of the stock torsion bars can barely do that at the stock ride height.